Filter

alexco38 · Apr 28, 2011

You should not put a pump before the Racor. The seals were not designed to be pressurized. Check it out on the Racor web site.

There should be one filter on the motor usually 2 micron. The external filter could either be 10 or 2.

I have a separate fuel lines with an electric pump and 10 micron Racor just to re-cycle the fuel without running the motor. I believe they call this fuel polishing.

Tim R. · Apr 28, 2011

alexco38 said:
You should not put a pump before the Racor. The seals were not designed to be pressurized. Check it out on the Racor web site.

Can you provide a link to that info?

All the literature I have seen for Racor diesel fuel filter/separators indicate it is fine to install the pump upstream of the filter as long as the pump has the correct PSI rating. Although not ideal as the pump can emulsify the water making the separator less effective.

http://www.parker.com/literature/Racor/12945_Rev_A_120RMAM_Series.pdf

Stu Jackson · Apr 28, 2011

alexco38 said:
You should not put a pump before the Racor. The seals were not designed to be pressurized. Check it out on the Racor web site.

There should be one filter on the motor usually 2 micron. The external filter could either be 10 or 2.

I agree with Tim. The real reason to put the Racor first, before the pump (besides that it says so in the Racor material) is that many pumps have little filters in them, emphasis on little. They get clogged up, when the purpose of the Racor is to, get this, filter the fuel! Most older Catalinas were piped wrong. Should be: fuel tank, Racor, pump, engine.

Motor filters are usually 10 micron, although you should be able to get a wide variety of micron elements on secondary engine mounted filters. I use a 2 micron Racor with a 10 micron secondary, and only change the secondary every two primary filter changes.

Be aware that micron ratings for fuel filters is like "what's the best" anchor as boating subjects. Many different ideas and approaches, all have validity 'cuz all seem to work for the proponents of each approach.

Three filters is overkill unless one is in parallel with another and is used for quick switchovers or for servicing/replacing filters.

No fuel gauge? Fill your tank, use half of it, fill up again, note engine hours and keep track, then you'll know how many gallons per hour you use.

RichH · Apr 28, 2011

Cliff E said:
I looked into what micron I had put in and the primary is a 2 micron and the secondary on the motor is a 10 that is a real pain the butt to change. I think now this is backwards. the 30 year old perkins runs like a top but I was thinking to leave the 10 on motor so I dont have to change often leave the 2 micron in the racor 2000 and add a new racor 500 before that. I do have an electronic pump before the racor now will this be to many filters? is it going to be hard on the perkins? I dont always run the electronic pump it is a cheapy that helps me prime and start engine the first time of the day. I have lots to do no the boat but I want to get this right. thanks. Cliff

Allow me to help you here. I was deeply involved in filtration engineering (~35 years) and was indirectly involved with Parker/Racor (but other more critical 'super high tech' filtration divisions than Racor) for over 15 years.

For a 4-108, the typical 'best' is Tank---> 30µM----> 10µM----> 2µM ----> 10µM (small engine mounted 'guard' filter) ..... Primary ----> Secondary----> Final----> 'Guard'
OR on typical small boat installations Primary---> Secondary----> "Guard".
The ABSOLUTE MINIMUM should be tank----> 10µM Racor---> 10µM (engine mounted guard).

The 10µM Racor is the most important, followed by the engine 'guard' at ~10µM ... these two are all you need for safe operation, The use of a 2µM on a 4-108 is UNNECESSARY and will only cause the filtration set to prematurely 'choke' / FAIL with debris (but OK to use, youll just have to change more often). The use of a 2µM will put an undue strain on the engine's lift pump and may cause future 'premature' lift pump failure .... long term.

The 30µM is a prefilter and reduces the amount of fine particulate going to the 10µM Racor. If you dont have the 30µM, the 10µM Racor will simply more rapidly plug as its function is solely to 'extend the in-service life' of the 10µM. When there is a 10µM preceding a 2µM, the 10µM acts as a 'prefilter' to the 2µM. Prefilters are there only to extend the service life of the next 'downstream' filter (not including the 'last chance or guard').
The 'engine guard' is there simply to protect the engine if the Racors (10µM or 2µM) fail (filter pleats break, etc.) or begin extrude very small soft/deformable particles. The engine 'guard' should ALWAYS have a 'prefilter' upstream protecting it, and the prefilter for the 'guard' should alway be SMALLER in µM retention than the 'guard'. You 'guard' is probably rated at 10µM (95%-97%)

Pressure/Vacuum Considerations.
(Simple Speak ... if you are running your filters in PRESSURE MODE, and you cant find the pressure rating of YOUR EXACT filter mod. in the below listed catalogue .... DO NOT EXCEED 15 psi pressure -- the lowest possible pressure rating possible for ALL 'Racors' . Some Racors used on small boats can operate as high as 30 psi, (some as high as 60 ... but you better be accurate when reading the confusing catalogue data and you MUST have a pressure gage mounted in the filter piping ... if you dont find the data in the catalogue assume 15 psi MAX pressure

On small system as found in 'rec. boats', the 'pump' can be anywhere along the filter set; best location is between the tank and the first filter in series with the pump 'pushing' oil into the filters - boat manufacturers use the engine lift pump as a vacuum source .... probably the 'worst' / 'cheapest' method vis a vie 'filtration'. So, in your case it really doesnt matter where the 'extra' pump is (and it doesnt have to even be 'on' .... the ONLY consideration is that the system pressure does not exceed 15 psi (pressure) for the small racors sets (30 psi for the 'larger' type sets) when that 'little extra pump is ON' ..... You need to correlate the EXACT part number vs. system max. pressure.
Search out your EXACT Racor Housing part number and cross reference the MAX. OPERATING pressure in: http://www.parker.com/literature/Racor/7501_Rev_H_Marine_Filtration_Systems.pdf .... and install or use a pressure gage to VERIFY the pressure if you plan to have this 'extra' pump continuously 'on'.
Note - If this is a pump only used for bleeding air out of the filters and injection system ..... it doesnt have to be 'on' when the engine is running !!!!!, so just 'ignore' it and use it only to bleed and as a 'reserve' pump in case the engine lift pump fails.
Note: if your system is only a Single Racor preceding the engine 'guard', I suggest (next time you change out) that you use a 10µM instead of a 2µM .... as you will (properly) filter 5 TIMES the amount of oil before the Racor 'plugs' AND will cause less 'load' on the engine's lift pump.

hope this helps.

sailaway78 · Apr 28, 2011

I have a system much like RichH describes

I have an electronic pump at the tank, which is switchable on and off, as well as a by-pass set up for it, consisting mainly of a couple shut off valves. My filters are WIX, a 14 which is a water seperator, followed by a 10. On the engine is the little Yanmar final filter, which I replace every so often, but which has never stopped up. The electronic pump I have installed puts out a max of 5 PSI, and has never given a moments problem. I use it primarily as a bleed pump, as the manual lift pump on the Yanmar is virtually impossible to get to for manual bleeding of the system when required. An added plus of the electric pump is this. A couple of years ago, I was heading into the inlet at Tampa. Had been in some rough conditions for several hours, and the filters were beginning to clog. It was night, weather was crappy, wind right on the nose, and quite a bit of traffic in the channel. Not a good condition to be purely under sail power. I used the electric pump, and with the added push from it, I managed to get into Tampa bay, without the engine quitting due to clogged filters.

RichH · Apr 28, 2011

Nice N Easy said:
I have an electronic pump at the tank, which is switchable on and off, as well as a by-pass set up for it, consisting mainly of a couple shut off valves. My filters are WIX, a 14 which is a water seperator, followed by a 10. On the engine is the little Yanmar final filter, which I replace every so often, but which has never stopped up. The electronic pump I have installed puts out a max of 5 PSI, and has never given a moments problem. I use it primarily as a bleed pump, as the manual lift pump on the Yanmar is virtually impossible to get to for manual bleeding of the system when required. An added plus of the electric pump is this. A couple of years ago, I was heading into the inlet at Tampa. Had been in some rough conditions for several hours, and the filters were beginning to clog. It was night, weather was crappy, wind right on the nose, and quite a bit of traffic in the channel. Not a good condition to be purely under sail power. I used the electric pump, and with the added push from it, I managed to get into Tampa bay, without the engine quitting due to clogged filters.

PERFECT !!!!!
Filters operate based on how much 'pressure/vac' is available 'across' them. The more pressure (vac.) across them the more the flow.
Putting a small 'booster pump' AT the tank is the very BEST place for a such a 'pump' and if the system 'clogs' you can simply turn the small pump ON and ..... continue on.
An engine lift pump can only typically draw upwards of 6"vacuum (about -3 psi) ... turning on that small 5 psi pump just gave you more than TWICE the total flow capacity of the filters!!!!! Simple, elegant, perfect !!!!! Pumps need to PUSH fuel into filters, better than 'pulling' oil through filters -- more total quantity of filtered oil, longer filter service life, more debris removed before 'plugging' .... perfect!!!!!!!!

Bob S · Apr 28, 2011

RichH,

I've read many of your posts on filtration and there is no doubt you are the expert here. Reading many posts on diesels fouling at the worst times because of crud in the tanks scared me. At the end of my first season (I'm entering my fourth) I cut an access hole 6" in my tank to see and clean it. It was surprisingly clean. All I had to do is wipe it down. I use a pneumatic pump designed for oils to pump my tank dry as part of winterizing. I leave the cover off. As part of my spring commissioning I wipe it dry with a cotton rag and fill with fresh diesel. My boat, like Stu's and Cliff's came with a 2mic Racor primary and the 10mic secondary. How often should we be swapping them out?

The remaining fuel is always visually clean and I consume about 25 gallons a season.

bria46 · Apr 28, 2011

I agree with all of the above comments. However you guys failed to suggest a Fuel Shut Off Valve directly in-line and in-front of the Racor/or other manufacturer's primary fuel Filter! This spring while changing the internal filter in my Groco fuel/water seperater I removed the bottom bolt from Groco, but a sizable container under the drain, the container over-filled, spilled diesel fuel all over the floor in my storage area before my diesel soaked hands could reinsert the damn bolt back into the drain! What a mess! After removing the diesel fuel with my handy-pump (about 1.5 quarts) I used a vise grip pliars to crimp the fuel line from the tank. Please mount a fuel shut off valve before draining your filters to prevent my 6 hour cleanup!

RichH · Apr 28, 2011

Maximum installed time for any Racor is ~12 months .... the cellulose that is in the filter material is eventually attacked and 'digested' by the water (emulsified, etc) which can severely weaken the filters 'strength'.

Other than that if your are 'prudent' I would install a vac/pressure gage between the engine guard filter and its immediate upstream 'prefilter'.... or anywhere between the lift pump and the 'filters'. Then 'test' the system by closing the tank valve and just record the max. gage vacuum value obtainable with the tank valve closed and the engine at high rpm. Take that value and multiply by .75 .... and that's your 'filter change-out' reading/value. This ensures that there is sufficient 'reserve' filter capacity before you MUST make the change and allows you to SEE the operating values .... long before the engine 'stumbles' or shuts down because of clogged filters, etc.

Example: Close tank valve ..... engine at high rpm begins to 'stumble' at 4" hg. vac. 4 X .75 = 3"hg. vac. is your 'maintenance' change-out value .... or 12 months whichever occurs first. You may have to bleed air from the system after you do this (air leaks across faulty/marginal 'connections' at during high vacuum).

(That you apparently have a very well maintained/clean system, the possibility of 'filter clogging' is probably VERY remote).

;-)

zeehag · Apr 28, 2011

my assist pump is after the racor and before the lift pump-- turns on with the key in acc position, and remains on with engine--i love it. is low pressure and i have a backup if needed. i wanted, as phillip has, one with manual shut off, but that can be done at a later date.

Stu Jackson · Apr 28, 2011

Engine hour meter

Cliff E said:
Stu this may sound dumb but I havent even looked for my engine hour meter, going to put that on the list.

Cliff,

Many boats have them built into the tachometer. Some don't. Some have separate ones. Many folks have simply added them. They usually run off the ignition switch, so when it's on, the meter runs. "Purists" tend to want to connect them to oil pressure sensors which only operate when the engine is actually running, but somehow I figure that for the 11 minutes I've had my ignition switch on with the engine not running (i.e., bleeding the engine or other troubleshooting), it's not gonna matter in the larger scheme of things. I have 2400+ hours on our 1986 engine.

RichH · Apr 28, 2011

bria46 said:
I agree with all of the above comments. However you guys failed to suggest a Fuel Shut Off Valve directly in-line and in-front of the Racor/or other manufacturer's primary fuel Filter! This spring while changing the internal filter in my Groco fuel/water seperater I removed the bottom bolt from Groco, but a sizable container under the drain, the container over-filled, spilled diesel fuel all over the floor in my storage area before my diesel soaked hands could reinsert the damn bolt back into the drain! What a mess! After removing the diesel fuel with my handy-pump (about 1.5 quarts) I used a vise grip pliars to crimp the fuel line from the tank. Please mount a fuel shut off valve before draining your filters to prevent my 6 hour cleanup!

I believe/think that a shut off valve immediately after the tank on the fuel delivery line is required by ABYC and almost all insurance carriers. Otherwise, if the piping system fails the oil will 'siphon' into the bilge, etc. from the tank .... very 'costly' if the oil then goes 'overboard' and creates a sheen on the water .... like to the tune of mega-$$$$$.

jackhartjr · Apr 29, 2011

How did you get water instead of diesel?
Jack

zeehag · Apr 29, 2011

is not uncommon to find water in diesel if going to places wherefrom the diesel is purchased in containers rather than from a pump--- can also be from bottom of the tank from which the diesel is pumped--depending on th e frequency of use of that particular pumping station and frequency with which diesel is delivered... gooood luck--and when the truck is delivering to the station-- DO NOT get fuel, as it will be churned well with dirt and water.. goood luck.

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