I am considering replacing my Jabsco with a PH-II. I have never seen one of these conversions which raising a number of questions. One of my nagging questions is what to do with the old Jabsco mounting holes. As I understand it the lag bolts (screws) that hold down the head are in different locations, so I will not be able to use all of the old screw holes and will have to drill new ones. So what do I do with the old holes?
What to fill old mounting holes with
- Thread starter Larry.M
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Wooden plugs? 2-part epoxy? If installing a Raritan PHII (not a PHC), the plastic base cover will probably cover up any old holes, providing they are reasonably close to the new mounting holes.
But my favorite method is to remove the existing head, clean the area well, then cover it with a custom-fitted piece of Starboard, teak and holly-faced marine plywood, formica-faced marine plywood, etc., in a matching or contrasting color. You can find a nice molding to cover the front edge laminations of the plywood that would normally "show." But don't put it down with 5200 or other permanent adhesive. Screw it down! By screwing it down, it can be removed if necessary, at a later time. With stainless steel screws and marine-type finish washers, it'll look pretty good. Put the screws about 1" in from the outer edges, so that they won't interfere with where you'll be mounting the head or running your hosing.
After installing your new "floor," set the head in positon and mark and drill where the mounting holes need to go, and where any holes will have to be drilled to run hoses. Then install the head and plumb it up. When all done, caulk the joints where the new floor panel meets the vertical walls with a soft, removable caulk, and you're done. It makes a nice weekend project for a Do-It-Yourselfer, and you end up with a nice, professional-looking job.
Larry, is there any water left in Lake Travis these days? I'd heard that with last year's droughts, there wasn't much water left in the lake. I was there about 10 years ago, to a Summerset Houseboat convention, and there was plenty of water there then.
But my favorite method is to remove the existing head, clean the area well, then cover it with a custom-fitted piece of Starboard, teak and holly-faced marine plywood, formica-faced marine plywood, etc., in a matching or contrasting color. You can find a nice molding to cover the front edge laminations of the plywood that would normally "show." But don't put it down with 5200 or other permanent adhesive. Screw it down! By screwing it down, it can be removed if necessary, at a later time. With stainless steel screws and marine-type finish washers, it'll look pretty good. Put the screws about 1" in from the outer edges, so that they won't interfere with where you'll be mounting the head or running your hosing.
After installing your new "floor," set the head in positon and mark and drill where the mounting holes need to go, and where any holes will have to be drilled to run hoses. Then install the head and plumb it up. When all done, caulk the joints where the new floor panel meets the vertical walls with a soft, removable caulk, and you're done. It makes a nice weekend project for a Do-It-Yourselfer, and you end up with a nice, professional-looking job.
Larry, is there any water left in Lake Travis these days? I'd heard that with last year's droughts, there wasn't much water left in the lake. I was there about 10 years ago, to a Summerset Houseboat convention, and there was plenty of water there then.
If you don't fill in the old holes, when your toilet leaks, or when you take a shower if you have one in your head, the water will start going down through those old holes.
Fill them - use Marinetex or any other material you like.
Fill them - use Marinetex or any other material you like.
Filler
Hi Larry, I just finished filling several small holes on our boat and here is what worked for me. I purchased a small can of "duraglas", which is a fiber glass filled filler commonly used by yard repair crews. It comes with a hardening agent. It sets blue, so I used a gel coat repair kit to give it the final finish.
After reducing through the mix ratio on the label (one tube of agent to one can of filler), what worked for me was four drops of agent to one tablespoon of filler. It sets rock hard in about fifteen minutes. I left about one eight inch from the surface for gel coat repair material.
I used first a rasp to remove the raised part of gel coat then leveled with sandpaper. A final buffing with a gel coat polisher will blend it to a matching finish. Some gel coat repair kits come with a variety of colors, but in my case white was the color of choice. My tube of gel coat came out transparent, so it took only a small amount of white to color match the surrounding material. One important step is to lightly press on a piece of either wax paper or clear plastic sheet over the gel coat material until it sets (about one hour). Otherwise, the gel coat will remain tacky (that was per the application instructions). I'm very pleased with the outcome.
Terry Cox
Hi Larry, I just finished filling several small holes on our boat and here is what worked for me. I purchased a small can of "duraglas", which is a fiber glass filled filler commonly used by yard repair crews. It comes with a hardening agent. It sets blue, so I used a gel coat repair kit to give it the final finish.
After reducing through the mix ratio on the label (one tube of agent to one can of filler), what worked for me was four drops of agent to one tablespoon of filler. It sets rock hard in about fifteen minutes. I left about one eight inch from the surface for gel coat repair material.
I used first a rasp to remove the raised part of gel coat then leveled with sandpaper. A final buffing with a gel coat polisher will blend it to a matching finish. Some gel coat repair kits come with a variety of colors, but in my case white was the color of choice. My tube of gel coat came out transparent, so it took only a small amount of white to color match the surrounding material. One important step is to lightly press on a piece of either wax paper or clear plastic sheet over the gel coat material until it sets (about one hour). Otherwise, the gel coat will remain tacky (that was per the application instructions). I'm very pleased with the outcome.
Terry Cox
Thanks for the responses. I think the starboard would look the best, but is the most expensive. I will have to do some shopping before I make my decision. I am thinking about the version that uses my old Jabsco bowl.
Lake Travis is OK for now. We had a serious drought until September 2009 and the lake got very low. Then we had some good rains and the Lake filled back up. Unfortunately we have been dry again since the fall and the lake is down. If we do not get some rain in the next few months we will have a problem once again. I do a rain dance almost daily.
Lake Travis is OK for now. We had a serious drought until September 2009 and the lake got very low. Then we had some good rains and the Lake filled back up. Unfortunately we have been dry again since the fall and the lake is down. If we do not get some rain in the next few months we will have a problem once again. I do a rain dance almost daily.
Filler
Hi Woody, most marine stores carry this repair kit. The brand is "Evercoat". The kit includes a polyester Gelcoat paste (one ounce), a liquid hardener (.25 ounce), six color agents (white, brown, red, black, yellow, blue). I know WM carries this kit, but it depends upon how much you need. This kit is for small repairs; holes, gouges, scrapes, etc.
Terry Cox
Hi Woody, most marine stores carry this repair kit. The brand is "Evercoat". The kit includes a polyester Gelcoat paste (one ounce), a liquid hardener (.25 ounce), six color agents (white, brown, red, black, yellow, blue). I know WM carries this kit, but it depends upon how much you need. This kit is for small repairs; holes, gouges, scrapes, etc.
Terry Cox
thanks Terry ....on ounce may not be enough lol i have 4...4" holes in the cabin bulkhead to close up and fill ...you know where they put the instruments back in the late 70,s and early 80,s ...along with some other places on the deck......i am sure Evercoat sells larger quanities....opps didnt mean to hijack the thread......
regards
woody
regards
woody
Filler
Hi Woody, whoa, four inches in diameter? If it were my boat I would first use the "duraglas" with a round piece of marine grade plywood to fit into the hole to close it up. I would follow it up with a bit more "duraglas to level to within about one eight inch of the exterior surface, then gel coat to finish it off. I'm sure there are other ways, but this is what has worked for me.
Terry Cox
Hi Woody, whoa, four inches in diameter? If it were my boat I would first use the "duraglas" with a round piece of marine grade plywood to fit into the hole to close it up. I would follow it up with a bit more "duraglas to level to within about one eight inch of the exterior surface, then gel coat to finish it off. I'm sure there are other ways, but this is what has worked for me.
Terry Cox
Thanks Terry.....that sounds like a plan to me...i knew i was going to have to build the bulk head back and was planning on useing 1/2 inch plywood for the patch ...the bulk head has a balsa core....was planning on some matt..cloth and plywood then more cloth matt on the back side as it gets covered with plywood face with plastic laminate...i have west system epoxy as of now and i think it work for me ....i did find some marine plywood ( spruce ab marine) 1/2 " for $52.00 for a 4x8 sheet ...hope thats not too high ......
regards
woody
Filler
Hi Woody, you are welcome. Spruce A/B marine grade is cabinet quality, which at $52 for a sheet seems pretty reasonable. I would consider a lower grade of marine plywood if they carry it. B/C or B/D even since it will all be glassed over. Unless you have the need some places will sell you a half sheet. Just a consideration.
Terry Cox
Hi Woody, you are welcome. Spruce A/B marine grade is cabinet quality, which at $52 for a sheet seems pretty reasonable. I would consider a lower grade of marine plywood if they carry it. B/C or B/D even since it will all be glassed over. Unless you have the need some places will sell you a half sheet. Just a consideration.
Terry Cox
thanks for the tip Terry ...yes i do have some other places i need it as well like the gally cabnet and the head cabinet and the settee deck top so it ok ...the place i am buying it from is a bulk wholesaler and you have to take a full sheet ....i also need a 3/8'" and 1/4" as well the 1/4" is to replace the bottom of a dinghy i got last month
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I've replaced a couple compact Jabscos with PHC's, I've always used Marinetex for the bolt holes, no one will notice.
NONE of the bolt holes ever lined up, seems impossible but you won't be able to use any of the old ones.
NONE of the bolt holes ever lined up, seems impossible but you won't be able to use any of the old ones.
Ted, since you have had experience making the upgrade I am considering can you tell me whether the pump handle presented any kind of a problem. I have a Hunter 28.5 and was looking at the head and making some measurements today and from the Raritan literature the handle looks like it may be too long for my compartment. Do you have any thoughts on this.
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