Rewiring my mast- got questions!

[capejt]

One of my Winter/Spring projects is to rewire my mast for instruments and lights. I've seen here (at some point) that the wires are guided through a conduit of sorts.
How difficult is this conduit to work with as far as snaking wires though it? Also, what about the steaming light? Is there a break in the conduit for those wires? Is it possible (or even prefered) to remove the conduit from the mast to run the new wires?
Anything else I may have forgotten that could be useful?
BTW, It's a 79 H33. I'm leaving the VHF antenna cable for now, and replacing the masthead (and steaming) light wires as well as the wind indicator wires.
Thanks!

 

[JoeWhite]

You can use the existing wire to pull out and install a new one.

 

[capejt]

thought about that...

You can use the existing wire to pull out and install a new one.

I've considered that, but I'm a little worried in that I'm not sure how old the exiting wiring is. The boat is a 1979. That's a long time for wiring in a marine environment.

 

[Bill Roosa]

mast wiring

You might have a traveler line. A light cord (non-natural please) that runs in the conduit for just such a purpose. in the re-wire you should install one BTW for future use.
You do not want to remove the conduit unless you like hearing wires slapping all night long.
You could use the VHF cable to pull through a traveler line and save yourself a lot of work.
There would have to be a break in the conduit for the steaming light. This makes snaking the wires past that point difficult.

You did not mention if the mast is stepped or not. If it is stepped then you have the additional issue of getting the wire from the conduit to the exit to the boat. Mine go through a 90 degree bend rain shield to the boat interior others exit the side of the mast then go through the deck.

With all that snaking long runs is not fun. the conduit will actually help as it keeps the snake (stiff solid wire used to run your traveler) stay straight. the best way is with the mast unstepped to start at the end that you have the least access (usually the mast head) and get the snake into the conduit. Using prayer and patience (never pray for patience BTW, patience commeth through tribulation and I'm pretty sure that is not what you want at this point in the project) snake the snake down mast. Once it is through grab a light line that is twice ++ the length of the mast and use the snake to pull it through. This is now your traveler. Tie a large object that cannot got through the opening on the end of the mast to each end. select an end to start the wires and pull the traveler through till you have the extra traveler line at that end. tie a wire to the traveler where it goes into the conduit. Go to the other end of the mast and pull it through. Plan on having extra wire so you have something to work with at each end.

 

[Ed Schenck]

You don't say if the mast is vertical or horizontal. From what I have read about the H33 you definitely want it to be horizontal. Especially the first time tackling the wiring. The links below suggest there will be other problems. Those should all be resolved at the same time I think.
http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=424650&highlight=mast wiring
http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=139965&highlight=mast wiring
http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=12639&highlight=mast wiring

Too bad that the linked items in the archives don't retain the pictures. Why is that Phil?

 

[ggrizzard]

Don't try to remove or alter the conduit (unless you're up for a bitch of a job to replace it with blind rivets) My mast is in the yard right now and we re-wired it through the conduit with no problem using the existing 1979 wire runs a fish (What Bill R calls a 'traveler' I think). While it's down, you might consider removing the sheaves and cleaning them and the mast head fitting. Use a penetrant on the nuts and bolts and pins first, wait overnight and they come out. Watch the insert bearings on the sheaves very carefully (they fall out) and keep in mind, exact replacement shivs are not available and custom will cost $200 or more.

The steaming light is another problem: Perko doesn't seem to make the entire fixture anymore, but the globe is available by asking for a "stern light" globe, which they still make. The stern light fixture's bulb orientation is 90 degrees from the steaming light's, so it wont work on a vertical installation, but the globe is the same... slots and flange match your existing fixture.

 

[capejt]

WOW! Thanks guys, You confirm what I expected. BTW, the mast is off the boat and horizontal so hopefully it won't be too difficult.

 

[amcmahon]

Just a quick backup proceedure in case - if you happen to break the the fish/traveler, you can run a new line thru the conduit by using compressed air and a light string. Just tie a knott in the string and feed into the conduit while shooting compressed air in and the line will move thru the conduit in a few seconds. Good luck.