Neil, the floors look awesome. How do they get bonded to the hull?
Thanks for the comment.
At this time and subject to change on a whim, my plan is to drill 3/8" holes in the flats that ride on the hull, like 2 in each flat, and bed them in 5200 to the hull after stripping the area of all paint. The holes will act like indexes to lock the floors in place, like dowels.
I plan on placing 1/4" shims under the bolt flats until the 5200 cures then removing them before installing the bolts leaving a small gap between the bolt flats and the bilge top. Torquing the bolts will reduce the gap hopefully to zero yet place a minimal force on the bilge top (and the suspect plywood underneath). Torque values are yet to be determined but due to the coarseness of the lag threads in comparison to the keel bolts I expect the torque value to be higher than the current 105 ft-lbs.
I plan on drilling an oversize hole through the bilge top and plywood for each bolt, then the proper size pilot hole through the lower hull lamination and into the lead for the lags. This way the plywood and bilge top lamination won't impart any resistance on the bolts when torquing. After the bolts are in place, I'll fill the holes with epoxy to seal up the whole works.
A comment on the shape of the floors: the arch in the center of the bottom of each floor is so bilge water can communicate throughout the bilge rather than creating separate compartments. The dips in the upper edge are to allow room for the bilge pump discharge hose and anything else running through there.