ST60 Wind Cable Splice

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Scup

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May 18, 2004
126
S2 27 Southern Lake Michigan
Has anyone spliced a Raymarine ST60 wind instrument cable? Mine was smashed flat and broken about a foot above the connector when the mast was stepped. I really don't wish to run a whole new cable, thus my question. If you have done it, 1) how did you do it (got pics?), and if so, 2) how is the splice holding up? Thx.
 
May 24, 2004
470
Hunter 33.5 Portsmouth, RI
Scup, I have spliced the Wind cable, but I did it in the dry bilge below the sole board using a Radio Shack project box and a Euro style terminal strip. No problems. I did tht to have an "inside" disconnect of the wind cable wen I unstep the mast. If you have to do a splice above the deck, then solder the wire ends together, apply liquid tape, follow with some electrical tape, and finally apply a section of heat shrink tubing over the splice area (just remember to slide the heat shrink over one of the cable sections before making the splice). You should not have any problems. Just connect like colors together and connect the shield drain wires together.
Dick, S/V Puffin, 1990 H-33.5
 
Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
dito navigator's remarks

Mine is just as the wires come out of the mast to allow unsteping. Had to cut them the first time and just used a jumper strip. The cable has a thin aluminum shield around the wire bundle to kill all external noise so watch your routing of the rest of the wires. The lights should not be a problem as they are pure DC, the radio antenna wire is another issue however. Good coax will be fine but if your instruments "act funny" when you key the mike you may have to either reroute or enclose your splices in a metal box.
I just twisted them together as a tempory connection then fired up all the lights and radio to check. Did not get any reaction so I setteled for the cheaper and easier jumper strip. If you do get a noise reaction make sure the box is metal, the lid connects electrically to the box (no gasket) and the wires go into the box in their metal shileded case. You will want to connect the shield to the box on the inside on both ends of the cable (in and out).
 

Scup

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May 18, 2004
126
S2 27 Southern Lake Michigan
Mine is just as the wires come out of the mast to allow unsteping. Had to cut them the first time and just used a jumper strip.
Thanks for the responses, Bill and Navigator, this is very helpful. One question, though: what exactly is a jumper strip? Thx.
 
Jun 2, 2004
23
Hunter 30T Saint John (RKYC), NB, Canada
Scup, up here in Canada we haulout and unstep the mast annually. I have moved all the mast wiring (radar, wind, VHF and lights) on my 1991 30T to be connected/disconnected easily. The radar is spliced just inside the cabin and the rest are outside on the deck. Many years and never had any problems, just make sure your connections are watertight or protected from the elements. Here are some pictures. The waterproof box is the wind instrument wiring. Regards, Fred.
 

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DougM

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Jul 24, 2005
2,242
Beneteau 323 Manistee, MI
I have spliced cables for my wind indicator in the same manner as Fred's. I have to disconnect each fall to drop the mast. My junction box is under an access panel in the coach roof. I have my light cables and radio antenna coax separate in their own boxes. I use a regular coax connector on a through deck fitting . This system has worked well for the last 5 seasons.
 
Dec 4, 2006
279
Hunter 34 Havre de Grace
I'm not sure how many conductors you need, but, I used a pair these connectors : Sure Seal.
I bought them from Newark when installing my Nexus system.
They appear to be same as supplied with their wind vane.

On deck at the bottom of the mast they provide an easy weather proof disconnect.
 

Scup

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May 18, 2004
126
S2 27 Southern Lake Michigan
Thanks for the responses, Folks. I really appreciate your help.
 
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