Recessed lights in Catalina 30'

[igor]

Hi all,

I am thinking of installing recessed lights in the cabin of my 1980 Catalina 30'. Has anyone done this before? I am curious how much space there is between the ceiling of the cabin and the deck above. Is there enough space for a light to be installed? For the wire to be run in between the layers?

Any ideas? Thoughts? Cautions? Thank you!

 

[SeaRanch]

I am really surprised that no one has commented on your post.
NO, not a good idea. Most cabin to deck space is just enough for filler and putty to bond them together. Max space would be 1" +, generally.
I installed 15 watt white/red florescents, work great, low amps, good for night vision when needed.

Bill

 

[Old Skool Neil]

Hey Igor,

Just returned from a trip so I'm late responding to this thread and the picture comment you left me.

My lights are not recessed although they could be, individual switching could get complicated with recessed though. In the attached pics I've included a detail of the fiberglass cabintop 'runner' I made for the lighting project. Let me know if this still interests you.

 

[foolproof]

Neil:

Describe how you made the mold for the fiberglass pieces! I've been trying to figure out a way to install my new "eyeball" lights, and that looks like a perfect way to do it! Please share.

 

[Old Skool Neil]

The following applies to the 2 side pieces:

1. I made a pattern of the cabin side curvature at the turn of the side to the overhead. The method used was overlapping sticks adhered with hot glue.
2. Transferred the cabin side pattern to a gluing form by driving finish nails into a melamine workbench top.
3. Glued 1/4" x 1/4" poplar strips together, held tight to the nail-pin form, to a width of approximately 4".
4. Glued additional strips on top of the inside curve to form a 3/4" inside edge. Cross section looked like an 'L' laid on its back.
5. Sanded lamination smooth.
6. Fiberglassed lamination with 1 layer mat and cloth.
7. Flow-coated exposed side with resin thickened with red phenolic microballons.
8. Sand, sand and then sand some more.
9. Cut ends at compound angle to match overhead. Angles determined with 2 bevel squares each.
10. Prime and paint to match overhead. I painted the entire interior previously so a color match was easy.

Note that this technique is a one-off method, no mold involved. The crossover piece at the forward end of the cabin was done with a mold, a simple one fashioned of formica covered plywood.

 

[igor]

This is fantastic info - thank you all very much - I was a bit worried that no one would reply before I pulled the boat out this winter and started cutting holes in it.

 

[igor]

Hey Neil - this is great - if you have any more pics, I would greatly appreciate! I guess with a fiberglass mold, one could make the lights recessed IN the mold no?

 

[Old Skool Neil]

Hey Neil - this is great - if you have any more pics, I would greatly appreciate! I guess with a fiberglass mold, one could make the lights recessed IN the mold no?

The pics I posted are the best I have. With another listmate I was discussing the possibility of pulling my runners and making molds to be able to offer some sets, both here and over on the C-30 Yahoo group. Right now we're at the "what's it worth?" stage. I'm not in business to do this sort of thing but I certainly have to recover my costs. So, any opinion of what they're worth to you? They wouldn't be that hard to fabricate out of wood either, table saw, jigsaw, clamps and sander is what you'd need.

Also, my lights aren't recessed but there is a halogen fixture that is shallow enough to recess into the runner without cutting the underside of the deck. I'm sure an LED fixture is available too.

 

[igor]

If it's under 50 bucks I'd buy it!