Recommended Upgrades H23.5, H24, H26

Bilgewater · Sep 28, 2010

Kevin - Yes, those are last year's pictures. I drilled out the rivets in the eyelet in the lower boom slot and bolted it in the slot at the rear of the boom to attach the main sheet. The pad eye on the cockpit floor was there when I bought the boat. I assume it is standard equipment I use a short (24") rope to connect the sheet to the pad eye. I find it easier to release the cam cleat that way. The main has a bolt rope on the foot, but I rigged it loose- footed for more sail control, putting only the slide at the clew in the upper boom slot. I did these improvements after reading Don Guillette's "Sail Trim Users Guide", which I highly recommend. The drink holders on the steps came with the boat. In the "Daughter/Wife" picture you can see the tiller lock lines under the tiller. This is a system from Sweden (I think) that tensions the tiller when you pull up on it, the higher up, the harder it holds. I got it from Duckworksmagazine.com. Also visible are the spinlocks that replace the horn cleats for the jib sheets. I did not encounter any wires while installing the solar vent. It does a great job of keeping the boat aired out while at the slip.l

Bilgewater · Sep 28, 2010

[ Also, do jib sheets ever get hung up there on a tack?

Did you recently add the loose-footed main? In the shot with your wife & daughter, the bolt rope appears to be in the track, so I was guessing that was an older shot. Have you found better performance? Did you change the original outhaul because it was at the mast?

The jib sheet don't hang up on the vent, but do sometimes snag on the blocks at the base of the mast. I need to put a barrier around them.

I do feel I get better performance by adjusting the belly of the sail to suit conditions - tight for strong wind, loose for weak wind.

Believing that efficiency is intelligent laziness, I don't like going to the mast if I can avoid it. So, I put the outhaul at the end of the boom where I could get to it in the cockpit. I also use a two line reefing system. The tack line goes from the boom horn, up to a block at the reef point, down to a turning block at the mast base, and back to a clutch on the starboard cabin top. The clew line goes from a boom eyelet up through a block at the reef point, aft to the end of the boom and then through the boom to the mast base and a clutch on the port cabin top. I use the sheaves for the topping lift for the clew reef system, since I have a boom kicker, and like it very much. I can reef in a matter of seconds once I head into the wind, and from the security of the cockpit. I also control the vang through blocks to a clutch on the port cabin top. I should try and get some updated pictures posted.

steveebryant · Sep 30, 2010

Bilgewater said:
[ Also, do jib sheets ever get hung up there on a tack?

Did you recently add the loose-footed main? In the shot with your wife & daughter, the bolt rope appears to be in the track, so I was guessing that was an older shot. Have you found better performance? Did you change the original outhaul because it was at the mast?

The jib sheet don't hang up on the vent, but do sometimes snag on the blocks at the base of the mast. I need to put a barrier around them.

I do feel I get better performance by adjusting the belly of the sail to suit conditions - tight for strong wind, loose for weak wind.

Believing that efficiency is intelligent laziness, I don't like going to the mast if I can avoid it. So, I put the outhaul at the end of the boom where I could get to it in the cockpit. I also use a two line reefing system. The tack line goes from the boom horn, up to a block at the reef point, down to a turning block at the mast base, and back to a clutch on the starboard cabin top. The clew line goes from a boom eyelet up through a block at the reef point, aft to the end of the boom and then through the boom to the mast base and a clutch on the port cabin top. I use the sheaves for the topping lift for the clew reef system, since I have a boom kicker, and like it very much. I can reef in a matter of seconds once I head into the wind, and from the security of the cockpit. I also control the vang through blocks to a clutch on the port cabin top. I should try and get some updated pictures posted.

Hey Bilgewater, Steve here,
I am having my local sail maker build me a new sail. He asked me if I wanted a traditional or loose footed sail. From your comments, it seems possible that I could have him construct the sail so that I could use it both ways. Is that correct?
Thanks,
Steve
OCBC

Bilgewater · Oct 1, 2010

Steve - I don't know if the sail has to be specifically cut to be loose-footed or not. I just did it to mine as an experiment, and I like the results. The pro would be the person who should know.

VT Fitz · Oct 2, 2010

No "Shelf" in Loose-footed?

I went back in the archives & did a little reading... I think, optimally, a loose-footed main doesn't want a "shelf" where the bolt-roped-foot does. I don't recall all the in's & out's, but because the bolt rope foot has to be straight along the boom, it is cut to create a "shelf" there.

I'm thinking of doing pretty much what Mike has done & see how it works. I have the pieces left over from installing sail slides on my previous boat, so what the heck. If it doesn't seem to make a difference, it would be easy to remove.

To be candid, I almost never futz with the outhaul, which is not a positive. Maybe the loose-foot would encourage me to experiment more with outhaul tension.

owner23.5 · Oct 28, 2010

yes I would like to upgrade to THAT boat!!!! I just have to sell my 1993 23.5 first

hunter240 · Nov 2, 2010

Fortress Anchor

I surprised nibody posted this yet, expensive, but worth the money in light weight strong anchor, especially for the Admirlal's out there

soling42 · Nov 8, 2010

We're almost 5yrs with this 04' H260 w/wheel steering and use it mostly for extended coastal cruising in the shallow tropical waters of SW Fl. My experience is that the boat could use a hundred upgrades from stock (like every production boat) but can be a fine "daysailer" w/o anything extra. My top 10+/- for our type of use would ALL be needed to help ease the diligent captains safety needs. In no particular order:

• Ram mount VHF w/DSC and mast top antenna also secondary handheld vhf
• Auto Pilot
• Top shelf ground tackle w/ bow roller and secondary stern anchor
• Reliable 4stroke OB w/elec start/alternator/pedestal controls and pwr tilt
• Upgraded motor control cables
• Two group 27 deep cycle batteries
• Extra fuel storage
• GPS chartplotter at helm
• CDI roller furler on jib
• Large Bimini
• Excellent depth finder
• Pedestal guard

OK so that’s 11(or more) but there’s plenty more to chew on below:

• Automatic rudder release cleat
• Hatch board restraint at stair base
• Small 110v inverter
• Cockpit cushions and suitable captains seat
• Tensoners on life lines at first cockpit stanchion
• Increased cooler size and quality w/drain hose
• Larger head capacity
• Remove lame table and convert new table design into functional V-berth too
• Pressurized water sys w/level gauge, real faucets and stern shower
• Lower bilge pump and add secondary pump also install air loop in hose
• Add extra 12v outlets for fans/phone chargers/spot lights
• Self tailing winches and jib sheet snap cleats!!
• Canvas cover for pop top and hatch boards!
• Screens for ALL openings and storage placement on aft bunk ceiling
• Shade canvas system for boom from mast to bimini
• Upgrade all bedding foam…….and much much more

Don’t get me started on a trailer and towing package or what to bring when cruising. I’m already exhausted thinking about all the improvements I’ve done

. Happy sailing. Mike and kelli