Teak Sanding, Cleaning, Refinishing Questions

[Ducati]

I am removing the Cetol from the teak inlays on the cockpit seats. It's far to slippery and dangerous when wet.

Questions?

Can I use an orbital sander or should this be done by hand to remove the thin layer (1 coat) of Cetol.

After sandinfg, what products can I use or make at home to freshen up the wood and remove any of the residual black that is in the fibers of the teak. What about cleaning with vinegar and baking soda?

Once we get the teak back to the base what other teak sealing products can I use that will protect, give a light color (not typical Cetol orange) and is easy to apply.

I love my boat!

Thanks

 

[Alan]

There's your problem with the black in the teak fibers. The black is a mold that grows in the teak due to water penetration. If you are only removing one coat of Cetol that is the reason you have the mold. Cetol requires a minimum of 3 coats and should be reapplyed with a touch up coat once a year. The mold can be removed with a mild bleach solution after sanding. I use a palm orbital sander on all my teak. Just choose the right grit of paper. Start with 80 for course removal then maybe 120 as a finish.
As for protecting your teak I would reapply Cetol and mix in some nonskid sand with one of the coats. This will leave a rough surface to prevent slipping.

 

[Stephen K]

I use a random orbital sander on my teak...just be careful about the force you apply along with the sandpaper grit you are using. You will have to get down to bare wood, then use a bleach solution to kill the black mold...Alan is correct. I have also had good luck with the Starbright company cleaner and teak brightener product.

If you like the ease of Cetol, I would suggest you try the "new" Cetol natural teak color...IMHO it is a nice warm honey color and nothing like the old orange. You could always use 2 coats of the natural teak and determine if it is slippery or not. If it is, you could add some sand or abrasive to the final coat as Alan suggested. I would not use the "Cetol gloss" as a top coat as that would make a slippery surface.

 

[Warren Milberg]

I, too, use a random orbit sander on most of my teak. I can even use it to strip Cetol off the sides of my handrails if I am careful. Works well with an aggressvie grit fiirst and then a fine grit to finish. I've used both a mild bleach solution or oxalic acid to clean black spots with a tooth brush. Use care to avoid raising the grain in the wood, which may then require resanding.

 

[caguy]

On my hand rails I used a paint stripper for 1/2 hour. I then water blasted most of the old Cetol off. I didn't want to get too aggressive with the blaster as it will remove softer wood. I was able to belt sand the outer surfaces and then used the Multi-max to sand the inside curves.
You might want to try http://www.floor-coating-application-tools.com/non-skid-slip-additives.html plastic beads instead of sand. I know the use sand and walnut shells with painted deck surfaces, but I think with a clear coat like Cetol High Gloss the plastic beads will be transparent. IMHO

 

[Freedom77]

after taking teak to bare wood I use Watco Danish teak oil. Also comes in a variety of shades including clear. It penetrates and protects. I live in the desert where the sun shines 25 hours a day. Use it sparingly and often. Wipe up any residual. Fair winds, Old Salt...

 

[zeehag]

considering that teak is at present , more than 80 dollars per board foot---i never sand mine--i use a 3m pad and salt water. if you are in a hurry to remove cetol, it will sacrifice enough teak that in 5 yrs at the same rate of sanding you wont have a solid teakwood item any longer. i have watched as folks sand their teak from 1 inch in thickens to 1/2 inch in less than 5 yrs due to sanding for varnish and other hard coating substances. i used teak and tung oils on my teak after the sea water cleansing, and the cetol someone long ago placed on this boat is now gone. i noticed the oil tends to release the hold on the teak that cetol has. this method does no damage to teak nor gelcoat nor environment. no other method can say the same. this method, except for the 3m pads, has been in use for centuries in shipping and sailing. is also excellent for those of us who dont like spending lots of money on this task--also those like me who are lazy. i hate spending lots of time and effort on the wood--is something not needing more than 6-8 hours of my time per year.

 

[Florida sail]

Zeehog,

I like your attitude. My previous boat was teak free and I am dreading redoing the exiting teak (in poor condition) on my IP 27. What # scotch brite pads do you use? In addition, how long do you wait between cleaning and application of the teak oil or tung oil? Do you have any preference as to the oil you use? Thanks...

Reef early,

>>ron<<

 

[zeehag]

Zeehog,

I like your attitude. My previous boat was teak free and I am dreading redoing the exiting teak (in poor condition) on my IP 27. What # scotch brite pads do you use? In addition, how long do you wait between cleaning and application of the teak oil or tung oil? Do you have any preference as to the oil you use? Thanks...

Reef early,

>>ron<<

hi ron--i use whatever brand i find is least expensive-and the green pads i get in smart and final--just like the dish ones but slightly larger.-and after the cetol went away i started using watco--that is good for after the cetol is gone--i apply the oil when i see no more sign of wetness on the wood--doesnt take long. you will be surprised with the look after sea water--works better than any bleaching i have seen and is good for the wood and doesnt hurt gelcoat..retro boat care!! the wood becomes vibrant and almost blonde in its light brownness. beautiful with no bad chemicals. teak really is an easy care wood. is just humans make it seem harder than should be, go figger!!! i spend 6-8 hours, max , per year, on my woodwork.

by the way--the black is dirt. cant oil teak until is clean--will turn black. make clean with sea water--the black vanishes nicely!!then add oil, let dry and is all good. when the oil dries, there is no slipperiness at all. then just keep it clean with sea water!!! how easy can anything get??!!! it sure impressed me!!!!

for teak decks, just use sea water and a 3m pad --doesnt need sanding--needs cleaning and sea water every day. decks of teak are the best nonskid known there is no reason to put nonskid on a teak deck. only makes like sand paper and ruins the teak. grinds it down. only sea water baths on teak decks--every day, as the installers recommend.