I just bought an Alberg 22. Structurally sound, but needs some cosmetic work. In the cabin, I'm thinking of trying to cover portions of the ceiling with canvas. My questions are: what would I use to glue it? would/should it be "finished" in any way to avoid mildew? The existing fiberglass ceiling is not finished to a smooth gloss, but is a little rough--how should I prepare it? and finally, is this idea nuts?
refurbishing cabin interior
- Thread starter Jim H
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There are several grades of 3M & Locktite automotive 'headliner' adhesives - in spray cans available from the larger automotive supply houses and specialty internet 'headliner' sources.
example: http://www.wlsheadliners.com/3m-hit...8.html?zenid=6e50abbb56c55b5b6f7d7ac07b816a98 .... although the 'lower tack' adhesives are much easier to work with and they allow some measure of 'repositioning' the fabric before setting up.
I'd avoid 'canvass' as it can easily accumulate mildew, etc. because of its porosity and roughness; and, would suggest a good 'textured' vinyl - either plain backed or foam backed. Do a websearch for "headliner + automotive" as there are MANY choices that will/may suit your fancy. Dont shop 'blindly' and do get a 'swatch' sample of the material before you commit to a 'full order', etc.
With a little care and forethought such 'headliner replacements' can look like "original equipment" - the application process is similar to 'hanging heavy vinyl, etc. wallpaper' which has a high learning curve and takes some expertise.
Paint or even 'sprayed-on' gel coat is the easiest to clean but requires careful prep of the surface ... or the finish will look 'homemade'.
hope this helps.
example: http://www.wlsheadliners.com/3m-hit...8.html?zenid=6e50abbb56c55b5b6f7d7ac07b816a98 .... although the 'lower tack' adhesives are much easier to work with and they allow some measure of 'repositioning' the fabric before setting up.
I'd avoid 'canvass' as it can easily accumulate mildew, etc. because of its porosity and roughness; and, would suggest a good 'textured' vinyl - either plain backed or foam backed. Do a websearch for "headliner + automotive" as there are MANY choices that will/may suit your fancy. Dont shop 'blindly' and do get a 'swatch' sample of the material before you commit to a 'full order', etc.
With a little care and forethought such 'headliner replacements' can look like "original equipment" - the application process is similar to 'hanging heavy vinyl, etc. wallpaper' which has a high learning curve and takes some expertise.
Paint or even 'sprayed-on' gel coat is the easiest to clean but requires careful prep of the surface ... or the finish will look 'homemade'.
hope this helps.
If Murphy has it's way, as soon as you get a really nice headliner put up and done right after hours and hours of back breaking work, a through deck bolt or screw will need to be accessed and you will have to tear it all back down....
I'd suggest sanding and painting instead.
I'd suggest sanding and painting instead.
Not such a bad idea....
It's not such a bad idea to put up some sort of material for sound insulation and good aesthetics. My Mac V222 came with a shag-type carpet on the inside and it was pretty nasty. I replaced it with an outdoor fabric and I think it turned out nice.
Interior 1
It is bolted through the top with a 1/4" plywood that has been there for over 30 years possibly. The plywood was in great shape.
Interior 2
Painting sounds like a good idea, but since mine already had the boards and the holes, I just covered them with some fabric (with batting to give it a padded feel).
Interior 3
Just remember the environment this stuff must endure and make sure it is tough as nails and put up tight.
Good luck!
Aubrey Scott in Texas
It's not such a bad idea to put up some sort of material for sound insulation and good aesthetics. My Mac V222 came with a shag-type carpet on the inside and it was pretty nasty. I replaced it with an outdoor fabric and I think it turned out nice.
Interior 1
It is bolted through the top with a 1/4" plywood that has been there for over 30 years possibly. The plywood was in great shape.
Interior 2
Painting sounds like a good idea, but since mine already had the boards and the holes, I just covered them with some fabric (with batting to give it a padded feel).
Interior 3
Just remember the environment this stuff must endure and make sure it is tough as nails and put up tight.
Good luck!
Aubrey Scott in Texas
- Dec 30, 2009
- 680
If you are at all handy ,FLP works real well. Its an 1/8" plastic panel, very pliable, cheap you can buy at Depot. By the way when ever you do any kind of cieling or small wall section save the old for a template. I glued up small 3"x3" 3/8" or 1/2" pieces of ply, If you are going to have seams do some there. You can run wires under it also. I used small phillips head ss screws in the field, and used some nice stained, polyied, half round to create a pattern over the seams. It comes in a beige or white. Cuts with large snips or razor knife. Impervious to water, and it really britens up the interior. I'll take a pic this weekend and post it. Red
- Dec 30, 2009
- 680
Hey guys I,m calling it FLP, I think it stands for Finish Laminate Panels.It comes 4'x8' approx 1/8" thick, very pliable. You will see it in public restrooms, commercial apps like kitchens, its very tough. As far as marine worthy,you could submerge this stuff for a year and all you would need to do is wipe it off. It has like a sort of shiny popcorn cieling look. It is great to work with I used large aluminum shears, cuts like butta.They make a small ss dish type kitchen washer to screw in the field. If you look you will be surprised this stuff is used all over. I even used it in my engine bay over AZEK battons and 1" dow styrofoam. Red
- Dec 30, 2009
- 680
Wink, you are correct FRP, another acronymn I can"t remember....No matter it works well in the marine environment, I also used it in my head on the floor where the toilet is mounted..Red
Great. I'm off to Home Depot tomorrow to check it out. I'll be doing the sides of the ceiling traditionally, with wood strips. But there is already so little headroom that I don't want to reduce it with anything too thick. I may be leaning toward the sand and paint model, but want to see the FRP/FLP.
And thanks to all for the information and ideas. I'm new to this forum, but am hooked already.
And thanks to all for the information and ideas. I'm new to this forum, but am hooked already.
Defender Marine has some nice headliner material for like $25/yard. For inside the hull I got the 'Irish Tweed' which looks like a million bucks. For the overhead I got the standard white vinyl stuff. This goes up with 3M '77' spray adhesive (wear a mask and goggles!).
I sanded and painted the cabin sides, just not the top; but I have yet to put the mahogany strips along the edges of the headliner which act as backing plates for the handrails and delineate the sides from the top. As long as you provide access to screws (which these sticks do for my cabintop) and other hardware points, I say doing a nice job with some upholstery is most fitting. You could also consider some actual cloth, like in fine cars, especially some very-good-looking faux broadcloth like in a London taxi which the '77' would hold up rather well.
A word, though- I do not believe canvas is a traditional solution for this application. Canvas was used on the outside of the cabintop, but in days before 3M's '77' the old-timers would have had no way of holding it up on the inside of the cabintop but for fir slats about an inch or two apart, which begs the question of using the canvas at all. It would have blocked air to coachroof timbers and instigated rot. A traditional yacht or ship would have had the fir slats and nothing else. You might try that-- with the use of 'deadman' posts and even 3M '77' they could be stuck up with no screws. On the very pretty Alberg 22 it would be like icing on the cake.
I sanded and painted the cabin sides, just not the top; but I have yet to put the mahogany strips along the edges of the headliner which act as backing plates for the handrails and delineate the sides from the top. As long as you provide access to screws (which these sticks do for my cabintop) and other hardware points, I say doing a nice job with some upholstery is most fitting. You could also consider some actual cloth, like in fine cars, especially some very-good-looking faux broadcloth like in a London taxi which the '77' would hold up rather well.
A word, though- I do not believe canvas is a traditional solution for this application. Canvas was used on the outside of the cabintop, but in days before 3M's '77' the old-timers would have had no way of holding it up on the inside of the cabintop but for fir slats about an inch or two apart, which begs the question of using the canvas at all. It would have blocked air to coachroof timbers and instigated rot. A traditional yacht or ship would have had the fir slats and nothing else. You might try that-- with the use of 'deadman' posts and even 3M '77' they could be stuck up with no screws. On the very pretty Alberg 22 it would be like icing on the cake.
The interior of my Lancer is completely covered. "headliner", fabric, wood, etc. It looks really good. Needs a little teaking and poly but it looks good. The problem is that you can't examine thu-bolts or tangs. My rigging could be on the verge of a de-mast and I would never know it. I recommend that id you cover the cabin ceiling, leave access flaps/ports/holes to all thru-deck fittings.
If you apply liner to a sheet, consider high-end Velcro . . . OK, stop laughing. A company that I worked for manufactured spectator seating. (Mile High Stadium, Utah Jazz, Gillette Center, Joe Robi Stadium) One of our products used "hoop & latch" that had a tensile strength of 300 psi for retain panels to theater chairs without the use of screws. I'd use some on fewer 'roids but it would allow you to easily remove the panels for inspection. When I recover the panels for my back rests, that's what I'm looking into. It's a 3M product and can probably be purchased thru McMaster-Carr.
If you apply liner to a sheet, consider high-end Velcro . . . OK, stop laughing. A company that I worked for manufactured spectator seating. (Mile High Stadium, Utah Jazz, Gillette Center, Joe Robi Stadium) One of our products used "hoop & latch" that had a tensile strength of 300 psi for retain panels to theater chairs without the use of screws. I'd use some on fewer 'roids but it would allow you to easily remove the panels for inspection. When I recover the panels for my back rests, that's what I'm looking into. It's a 3M product and can probably be purchased thru McMaster-Carr.
I had pondered the access problem years ago when I had a Pearson 26. I never came up with a good solution. The "super-velcro" sounds as if it might fit the ticket.
Thanks.
Thanks.
There is a guy in Olcott I know who used some type of panels that sound similar to the stuff from Home depot. He covered the seams with varnished battens and really spruced up the interior of his Bristol 26. I'm sure he would be happy to give you a tour.
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