Centerboard Underwater Repair

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Aug 1, 2010
18
Schwill DS-16 (early model) Barnegat Bay in New Jersey
The centerboard to my boat is made of galvanized steel and weighs 203 pounds, and the pendant wire is detached from the centerboard. The attachment broke off. The pendant wire is either still in the shackle (of some sort) and the shackle broke off completely OR the shackle is still attached but it's partially broke. Whatever the case, the pendant is not where it is supposed to be. For those of you who have worked on centerboards, what is the likelihood that I will be able to see and have clear access to the wire pendant? And secondly, how can I attach the loop end of the pendant wire to the centerboard? The shackle most likely snapped from a combination of corrosion, age, and pressure and I am guessing that some of it will probably be still on the block (swage? How do you think the pendant was attached?)? Will there be anything on the centerboard that I can crimp (with nose pliers) through and around the wire loop? And one more thing, how difficult will it be to do this job underwater providing that the water is fairly calm? Has anyone here ever done this before under water?
 
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Jan 26, 2007
308
Norsea 27 Cleveland
My T37 has centerboard woes. My board is stuck and useless and has been. While I don't have a detailed answer for you, I know that the Tartan 37 Association site forum has discussions on this issue. It's my recollection that people claim to be able to replace the line without hauling out or unstepping the mast (on this boat the line is run through a tube on the mast and out to a cleat on the deck). My board is about the same weight as yours, I would guess, and buoyed by the water some, it shouldn't be too bad to handle. The pennant line is tied on a padeye at the back of the board. A hose (heater hose material) is run over the part of the line that wraps the board during operation to prevent chafing and line jams.

Do you have any photos or schematics for your boat, so that you know for certain how the line is rigged below? The hardest part on a 'normal' line change for the T37 is when the line is pulled through the hull without a messenger attached. After that, most people unstep the mast to rethread a new line.

One other reccomendation. If the tide does raise your boat enough, slide a line under the hull starting at the bow with one person holding the port side and one on starboard, keeping the line fairly taut. You can pull up the board and then secure the line ends to cleats or winches. At that point you can move the point to anywhere you need so that the actual reconnection of the pennant line goes smoothly. Lift operators unfamiliar with cb keel boats (or just in a hurry), sometimes forget to do that at launch/haul time.
 
Aug 1, 2010
18
Schwill DS-16 (early model) Barnegat Bay in New Jersey
You may wish to join this group, may find all the answers there.http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DS16-DillerSchwill16/
Thanks Charlie, I am already a member. Those guys up in Canada are a little too techy and are always talking about ripping up their boat, and that kind of turned me off. There was one nice guy that was helping me out alot, but I have been asking him too many questions of late. That's why I turned to here.
 
Aug 1, 2010
18
Schwill DS-16 (early model) Barnegat Bay in New Jersey
My T37 has centerboard woes. My board is stuck and useless and has been. While I don't have a detailed answer for you, I know that the Tartan 37 Association site forum has discussions on this issue. It's my recollection that people claim to be able to replace the line without hauling out or unstepping the mast (on this boat the line is run through a tube on the mast and out to a cleat on the deck). My board is about the same weight as yours, I would guess, and buoyed by the water some, it shouldn't be too bad to handle. The pennant line is tied on a padeye at the back of the board. A hose (heater hose material) is run over the part of the line that wraps the board during operation to prevent chafing and line jams.<br />
<br />
Do you have any photos or schematics for your boat, so that you know for certain how the line is rigged below? The hardest part on a 'normal' line change for the T37 is when the line is pulled through the hull without a messenger attached. After that, most people unstep the mast to rethread a new line.<br />
<br />
One other reccomendation. If the tide does raise your boat enough, slide a line under the hull starting at the bow with one person holding the port side and one on starboard, keeping the line fairly taut. You can pull up the board and then secure the line ends to cleats or winches. At that point you can move the point to anywhere you need so that the actual reconnection of the pennant line goes smoothly. Lift operators unfamiliar with cb keel boats (or just in a hurry), sometimes forget to do that at launch/haul time.
Thanks, that was the first question of mine that I put on a couple of days ago, and that was the suggestion that was made to me. I'll definitely do the cb lift. But as for the center board pendant wire, I think it is different from bigger boats like your tartan. This is a very simply made sailboat that is only 16 ft. The pendant wire comes up and around the drum of the sheave and the top end loop runs inside the center hole of the sheave and the loop gets tucked in there. As for the attachment on the centerboard, from the people I have talked to, the wire is attached at the top of the centerboard most like in the center.
 
Jun 2, 2007
404
Beneteau First 375 Slidell, LA
How long can you hold your breath?

It's a small boat; you should be able to just beach it, tip it over, and do the repair.

I had a Paceship 23 CB boat many years ago and ran into the same problem. I had to haul my boat to repair it, but you shouldn't have to. On my boat the pendant was a steel cable looped through a small hole in the CB and secured with a copper ferrule that you swaged in place with a special tool. The local hardware store lent it to me. (Thanks, Ace Hardware) If you have the same setup, you might be able to make the swage with a pair of channel-locks, but the longevity of the repair would be in question. To give yourself the best chance, loop the cable through the CB TWICE before securing it; this will take most of the strain off the ferrule.
 

Ray T

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Jan 24, 2008
224
Hunter 216 West End - Seven Lakes
Re: How long can you hold your breath?

If you can't beach it can you pull it over in the slip? Weren't you the one having trouble getting out of the slip because the centerboard was stuck in the bottom? If you have room try pulling it over in the slip. I did this on my 23 and also my 27. I attached a line to my halyard and then to my truck. Worked like a charm.
 
Aug 1, 2010
18
Schwill DS-16 (early model) Barnegat Bay in New Jersey
Re: How long can you hold your breath?

I do have vessels on each side of me. I would have to take it out to an area where I can roll it over, but I would have to take everything out of the boat first and then pump all the water out that would mostly likely go in the not self-draining cockpit. And yes, my boat is stuck. I have to rig up a cb lift in order to move it out of there before I do anything, and there would be questions about rolling it over. Do I let down the cb first before I roll it over, or will I be able to easily pull the 200 pound cb out of there. You know, there's lot of people who come on here and just say -- oh, it's no problem. just do this and do that. Well, I already had one accident already - the pendant wire coming detached I mean -- by trusting a person -- my boat yard owner -- who kept on telling me "no problem, nuttin to wuhwy about, we know what we're doing." I am a beginner, and I don't have experienced sailors who can come out with me to help me with my boat. And I don't live where my boat is. I spent a lot of time and effort on getting my boat ready. I had to make several trips back and forth from my car just to put everything in the boat I need. It's already to go except for the pendant wire. There is less than two months till the end of the season, and I haven't sailed yet. At this point, I want to get the pendant wire reattached to the centerboard. Perhaps my only solution is to sail it to one of those money grubbing boat repair shops and give them $100 for a five minute job.
 
Aug 1, 2010
18
Schwill DS-16 (early model) Barnegat Bay in New Jersey
Re: How long can you hold your breath?

I forgot one thing. With the yard that I am at, I just can't beach it. There is a cement wall and trailers lined up. Nothing is as easy as you would think it would be, at least not concerning my boat.
 
Sep 25, 2008
2,288
C30 Event Horizon Port Aransas
I have switched out a prop underwater. I don't mind working under the boat, the only problem I had was doing it in October without a wetsuit. cold.
Do you scuba? Or were you talking about just swimming under to try to rig it up real quick?
IF you scuba and IF you can do this repair out of the water, you MAY be able to do it in the water. It absolutely can be done in the water but the degree of difficulty may not be worth it. I would pull the boat since you don't have a real good idea of what's going on under there.
If you could get some "money grubber" to fix this for $100, that would be your best bet. I spend $100 when I think about my boat too long.
 
Apr 22, 2009
342
Pearson P-31 Quantico
I can't believe that this is so hard

. . . I would have to take it out . . . I would have to take everything out . . . . my boat is stuck. I have to rig up a cb lift . . . will I be able to easily pull the 200 pound cb out . . . Well, I already had one accident already - the pendant wire coming detached . . . and I don't have experienced sailors who can come out with me to help me with my boat.
Wow! You certainly are not at my Marina or part of my Yacht Club. I just walk down hte dock and ask for help and before I know it, I am standing back on the hard as a dozen other people take over the project.

I cannot imagine that you can't get a rope under the CB and use TWO recket straps to bring it up. I read a lot of reasoning for what you aren't doing. But tell us, what have you done?
 
Sep 30, 2008
195
Hunter 310 Bivalve, Md
I did mine about a month ago. On mine the cable stop that went through a hole in the shackel slipped off. Snorkel, mask and flippers and about six tries got it back on. It was completely dark under my boat. I tied a tight rope under to help me locate the centerboard. First you need to find out what part broke. Pull the pendant line all the way out. Then go from there.
 
Aug 1, 2010
18
Schwill DS-16 (early model) Barnegat Bay in New Jersey
Re: I can't believe that this is so hard

To the one nice, red beared man who nit picked over my replies to people who all wanted to know why this and why that, how about Why does everyone tell me what I can't do instead of helping me on what I am willing to do? No, I shouldn't say that. There have been a few people on here who knew what they were talking about and have helped me out, or at least tried to give me some encouragement, and I really appreciate it. Anyway to answer redbeard, I am not at any marina. I am an hour and a half from my boat. I don't have a beach, I don't have the $300 to haul my boat in and out, or the $100 to take it to a repair place, and there is no trailer to the boat because I bought the boat cheap and I don't want to trailer a boat. (I might have to get one now, now that I know I know I can't rely on the boat yard to put my boat in safely.) My boat is definitely not at your marina. It is at a boat yard; they've got a portable toilet and a hose, and a boat yard owner who only put up the dock to cover the cost of his property taxes and his gambling habit. I wish everything was they way we hope it would be, but not everything is. Anyway, the little boat yard is very cheap, and that is why my boat is there. Wow! Wow! Wow! Take your wows down the road, will ya. I have already decided that I am going to do the repair underwater. I would only have to go down a foot or two, and the water will be calm, and the water won't be that deep. As long as I am able to see, which I hope the submersible flash light will help me on, it shouldn't take too long. I am not exactly sure what it will look like, whether the hole that the loop end will go through was bored right into the centerboard and the thimble or shackle is used as a stopper or some other arrangement. I was trying to get a clear picture in my head of the actual rigging of it and how I could improvise the way that the wire is attached if I need to. Anyway, there have some very nice people on here helping me out. Thanks again.
 
Aug 1, 2010
18
Schwill DS-16 (early model) Barnegat Bay in New Jersey
Re: I can't believe that this is so hard

By the way, I am not going to use ratcheting straps. I'm just going to use what I have, which is rope. I am hoping that I will be strong enough to pull it up with my two hands and then cleat it off. Wish me luck!
 
Jan 26, 2007
308
Norsea 27 Cleveland
If visibility is still a concern for you, here's an off the wall idea. Get a cheap underwater camera (or better rent or borrow a good fiberoptic camera) and flash off a few photos down under. If you're lucky you'll get a better 'picture' of what needs to be done.

As for getting the board up, I thought you said the board isn't stuck at high tide. Did I read that wrong? In any case, rig the sling you're using to lift the board to your sheet winches. You should be able to lift that thing, unless something is jammed up in the hinge/pivot mechanism. Unless it's a really bad design, those things are designed to move without anything other than someone pulling a line.
 
Aug 1, 2010
18
Schwill DS-16 (early model) Barnegat Bay in New Jersey
I am hoping that high tide will be high enough, but I wouldn't be surprised if it isn't. I am going to be prepared to pull the cb with rope and my hands if I need to. And if that's the case, I am hoping I'm strong enough.
 
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