sealing/caulking chainplate

[jsachetti]

I replaced my portside bulkhead a few years ago after noticing the chainplate was pulling up and dicovered thae bulkhead was mush underneath it's covering. Now I'm doing the starboard side as well. I'm still getting a little leak on the portside when it rains and I want to know the best stuff to use to stop the leak between the deck and chainplate?

also, i recently noticed some spider cracks on the outside hull where the portside bulkhead is. We fiberglassed the bulkhead to the hull and I imagine we are getting some stress there. Should I be concerned? And is it repairable without a massive headache?

 

[Joe11688]

I replaced my portside bulkhead a few years ago after noticing the chainplate was pulling up and dicovered thae bulkhead was mush underneath it's covering. Now I'm doing the starboard side as well. I'm still getting a little leak on the portside when it rains and I want to know the best stuff to use to stop the leak between the deck and chainplate?

also, i recently noticed some spider cracks on the outside hull where the portside bulkhead is. We fiberglassed the bulkhead to the hull and I imagine we are getting some stress there. Should I be concerned? And is it repairable without a massive headache?

For chain plates, I would use 3-M 4000 or 3-M 4200. Boat Life Boat Caulk can be used. I have O'Day 25 chain plates on my O'Day 222 that I bought off Rudy at D&R Marine. After a while, they started leaking and I went back to Rudy and asked him if there was a way to solve that problem and he told me to have stainless steel covers made up and welded to the chain plates with holes for bolts. I brought my boat down to J&J Marine Fabrication in Somerset and had it done. The guy made them up and tacked them. Then I removed the chain plates for him to weld them right up. I finished the job at home. I haven't had a problem since. You need to plan on where the bolts come through the deck on the other side of the main bulkhead though, because of the thickness of the bulkhead. I had also beefed up the V berth side of my bulkhead with oak boards before I had the plates made up. The oak boards are bolted to the ends of the settees. It's a job that requires careful planning but when it's done, the problem goes away.
Joe

 

[jsachetti]

Thanks Joe, sounds like a good solutions. Any comment on the spidering on the port hull where I did the original bulkhead?
John

 

[RichBone]

Thanks Joe, sounds like a good solutions. Any comment on the spidering on the port hull where I did the original bulkhead?
John

Did you butt the bulkhead against the hull or did you leave a gap?

Rich

 

[Joe11688]

Thanks Joe, sounds like a good solutions. Any comment on the spidering on the port hull where I did the original bulkhead?
John

I have a little bit of spidering on the side of my boat which was probably caused by a bang to the hull. I really don't know John. I only know that if I were to try and fix it myself, it would probably come out looking more obvious than it is now. I have some small holes on my deck to fill where I had removed some plastic fair leads. Then I'm going to try and Gelcoat them, along with eight other holes that I filled previously. I'm not really looking forward to doing that.
Hey Rich!
What do you think?
Ahoy!
Joe

John,
This is off the topic, but I was curious about this; Does your O'Day 25 have triangular plates attached to the lower stays which come even with the pivot point of your mast, for mast raising/lowering with the boom as a Gin Pole?

 

[emergpa1]

Thanks Joe, sounds like a good solutions. Any comment on the spidering on the port hull where I did the original bulkhead?
John

Regarding sealants john, What you use is not nearly as important as how you use it. Given that, i would like to add to Trinka's advice..
I too had a leaky chainplate right after carefully reseating the darn thing. And that was while it was still in my backyard and not enduring any stress, flexion etc.
What I did right was repair the core in that area, and fill it all in with thickened epoxy, then I cut the hole (rectangular of course) to admit the chainplate. What i did wrong was Ii did not leave enough space on one side of the chainplate to allow enough sealent in there. The chainplate was too close to the side of the hole to get caulk into it. When i made the hole a bit larger, and beveled the surface and reapplied the caulk, it has been dry as a bone ever since.
Of course all the other things about sealent use and reseating deck hardware apply.
What you use is less important than how you use it.
Keith

 

[Aircooled]

What I did right was repair the core in that area, and fill it all in with thickened epoxy, then I cut the hole (rectangular of course) to admit the chainplate. What i did wrong was Ii did not leave enough space on one side of the chainplate to allow enough sealent in there.
Keith

That's EXACTLY what I did and mine is bone dry in Seattle weather.