I have a 1990 Catalina 30' with an Universal Deisel Engine. I am having difficulty starting it. The Deisel Mechanic says there is nothing wrong with and I believe him. When I "turn on the glow plug," then "press the start button," it tries to start, but will not. Suggestions, please? What am I doing wrong?
Starting Deisel Engine
- Thread starter Lee3573
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How long are you holding the key to heat the glow plugs? My manuel says to hold it in the heat position of 60 seconds if I remember correctly. What I do in reality is hold it for 30 seconds if the motor is really cold. When the weather and motor are warmer I hold it for a shorter time. Also, how is your battery? Please let us know what you find out.
Good Luck
Good Luck
If it has fuel but no fire, it could be something to do with power. Also, diesels don't like sitting for long periods of time so it is best to give it more warm up time when you crank her the first time.
I just turned mine over today after a long winter. She started right up like a champ but I have had the batteries on charge for a week so that could make a difference. Another thing to try is to pump the throttle some.
I just changed the raw water impeller today (globe 610), changed oil (oil filter 1334 Napa), oil (15W40), and the Automatic Transmission Fluid today. I had 150-200 hours on the previous Globe Impeller and it was in brand new condition.
Another thing to check into is to make sure that your fuel cut-off cable is in the on position. They sometimes don't get put down all the way and that causes the boat to not want to start (that one got me once).
If you have new and full batteries, the throttle is up a little, the fuel cut off switch is in the right position, then you should check your fuel filter.
Diesels aren't hard to figure out. If they have fuel and power they will usually run. If she has fire and still won't start it is probably in the fuel system somewhere.
I just turned mine over today after a long winter. She started right up like a champ but I have had the batteries on charge for a week so that could make a difference. Another thing to try is to pump the throttle some.
I just changed the raw water impeller today (globe 610), changed oil (oil filter 1334 Napa), oil (15W40), and the Automatic Transmission Fluid today. I had 150-200 hours on the previous Globe Impeller and it was in brand new condition.
Another thing to check into is to make sure that your fuel cut-off cable is in the on position. They sometimes don't get put down all the way and that causes the boat to not want to start (that one got me once).
If you have new and full batteries, the throttle is up a little, the fuel cut off switch is in the right position, then you should check your fuel filter.
Diesels aren't hard to figure out. If they have fuel and power they will usually run. If she has fire and still won't start it is probably in the fuel system somewhere.
Assuming you aren't doing these things simultaneously, it could be a faulty glow plug which can easily be checked by doing a continuity test or even better, check for a voltage drop while the glow plugs are on.
agree with the previous advice....use the glo plugs longer, advance the throttle, good batteries, fuel shut -off knob is fully pushed down....
Here are a couple other ideas: check that the fuel cock / valve on the fuel tank is "open" and if you have a fuel pump, is it "ticking"....(pumping fuel) to the engine? or could it be your fuel filters be clogged and not permitting fuel flow to the engine?
Here are a couple other ideas: check that the fuel cock / valve on the fuel tank is "open" and if you have a fuel pump, is it "ticking"....(pumping fuel) to the engine? or could it be your fuel filters be clogged and not permitting fuel flow to the engine?
Starting diesel
First, diesels don't have throttles, and there is nothing to "pump". They are unthrottled engines. They inject a precise amount of fuel at the precise moment to cause combustion in the compressed (heated) air in the cylinder. If it has been running, or even turned over a few times, it should start without the glow plug. Although it is next to impossible to diagnose from afar, the posters suggesting checking the fuel supply are on target. Check the filters, pump, and anything else in fuel delivery system. All a diesel needs is air and fuel, and it should run. If you are unsuccessful troubleshooting on your own, try to find someone locally to physically look at it with you.
First, diesels don't have throttles, and there is nothing to "pump". They are unthrottled engines. They inject a precise amount of fuel at the precise moment to cause combustion in the compressed (heated) air in the cylinder. If it has been running, or even turned over a few times, it should start without the glow plug. Although it is next to impossible to diagnose from afar, the posters suggesting checking the fuel supply are on target. Check the filters, pump, and anything else in fuel delivery system. All a diesel needs is air and fuel, and it should run. If you are unsuccessful troubleshooting on your own, try to find someone locally to physically look at it with you.
KISS
Don't keep holding the glow plug button in when you push start. No reason to, it's hot inside the chambers already. You know how I learned, right?
Do the glow plug solenoid upgrade.
Read this stuff: http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine
Don't keep holding the glow plug button in when you push start. No reason to, it's hot inside the chambers already. You know how I learned, right?
Do the glow plug solenoid upgrade.
Read this stuff: http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine
Same issue with a '93 M25 engine -- new battery and shorter run to the engine with larger diameter wire. Hold key in the preheat for 15-30 sec -- starts instantly, even below 50F
Cockpit panel instruments
Do you have a voltmeter or an ammeter in your panel? If you have an ammeter, you need to look into the wiring harness replacement. It's in the link I provided earlier.
Other issues: you don't need to move your batteries closer, you need to have adequate wire size and very, very good contacts. Most grounds on our engines are pitiful, including contact surface and even the basic wire into lug connection. Pull on it: see what happens.
Do you have a voltmeter or an ammeter in your panel? If you have an ammeter, you need to look into the wiring harness replacement. It's in the link I provided earlier.
Other issues: you don't need to move your batteries closer, you need to have adequate wire size and very, very good contacts. Most grounds on our engines are pitiful, including contact surface and even the basic wire into lug connection. Pull on it: see what happens.
Since the season is well over now, I assume you either resolved your problem or dropped sailing altogether. But, nowhere in the thread did I find any reference to one inportant aspect of shut-off cable operation that can seriously hamper starting:
When you pull on the shut-off cable, it positively "grabs" the fuel injection systems "shut-off lever" to assure shut down of the engine. However, when you push the cable back in, it normally does not have any connection to move the injection systems shut off lever back to the "run" position (at least that's how my M18 Kubota in Rominten's {Hull No. 4051} was designed). Pushing the cable back, merely allows the lever to "drift back" to the run position on its own, which works well most of the time. As my boat has gotten older, especially after the engine has not been run all winter, and ESPECIALLY on those first cold mornings of early spring, the action on the injection system shut-off lever gets very sluggish, and occsasionally the lever doesn't make it all the way back to the "run" position on its own. I find now, for the first few starts in the spring, I need to make sure the shut-off lever on the injection system is all the way forward before initiating the start up sequence.
Furthermore, especially for those first few start-ups on those cold spring mornings, I can't emphasize enough the importance of running the glow plugs for a full minute (I hear that newer engine models have rapid-start systems that require less time) before cranking the enigine. Please note, that it's harmfull to keep cranking the engine without it firing, as the exhaust system heat exchanger can fill up with water, and allow some of that water to siphon back into the engine, leading to very expensive repairs. That could spoil your whole day/season.
Sailboat09: Absolutely, on the solenoid upgrade Stu is suggesting. It was one of the first upgrades I made to my engine and very simple to do. The factory wire run is too long and completely unnecessay. With the upgrade, all you'll need is about a 20 second hold.
Along with the solenoid upgrade I also changed the batt cables to a thicker size.
I switched over the batt system to a system where the 2 house batts and the one start batt ALL STAND alone. The start batt is only used for starting. After the engine start I wait a while while it recharges and then switch to one of the house batts. I've never had a batt failure problem with this system.
Along with the solenoid upgrade I also changed the batt cables to a thicker size.
I switched over the batt system to a system where the 2 house batts and the one start batt ALL STAND alone. The start batt is only used for starting. After the engine start I wait a while while it recharges and then switch to one of the house batts. I've never had a batt failure problem with this system.
I had the very same problem earlier this summer.I had someone hold the key in the glow plug position for 30 seconds while I held my finger on the glow plugs (they never got warm). I ended up pulling out the control panel (where the ignition switch is located)and found one of the wires that attaches to back of the ignition switch was loose. I disconnected the wire, cleaned it with emery cloth, re-attached it and within 5 seconds the glow plugs were warm and the engine started immediately. Never had any more problems starting. BTW before I came to that conclusion, I replaced fuel filters, checked fuel shut off , etc.etc.etc. (process of elimination)
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