Cabin Sole underside sealing

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J

Jared20459

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Jun 6, 2007
20
-Hunter 34 Saba Rocks II
I am refinishing our cabin sole of our Hunter 34. The old one has some moisture problems, so I had to remove it and have cut out new pieces. Now it is time to finish them. I have read to seal the underside prior to installing to make the wood last longer (moisture coming up from bildge). What should I use to seal the underside? I have heard epoxy, but there seems to be a lot of different types of epoxy? Do I use penetrating epoxy like Git-rot? Would it be acceptable to just use a wood sealer similar to a good deck sealer?

I plan on finishing the tops with polyurethane. I did a test piece last night and it looks awesome. Now I just have to figure out what to do with the bottom.

I have attached a photo of the progress so far.
 

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sailingdog

sailingdog

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Oct 22, 2008
3,502
- Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
I'd use the regular epoxy you would when doing a repair... West System, System 3, MAS, or one of them. No real need for a penetrating epoxy. Generally, you should epoxy the entire piece, and then add a finish over the epoxy. This way there are no "seams" for the moisture to enter the wood where you may have missed coating the wood.
 
B

Barnacle Bill

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Jun 9, 2008
1,850
- -- -Bayfield
Git Rot is a good product, but for use with small areas to solidify dry rotten wood. I think it would not be cost effective to use it on a larger area. West System or the others mentioned would be a good choice, but it wouldn't hurt to thin it for the first few coats to get good penetration and then eventually apply full concentration for the last coats (read the product info that you choose for thinning instructions). West System is very thorough with their product information. You also could use a good epoxy barrier coat paint. Don't forget to seal the ends where the grain is exposed more.
 
Tim R.

Tim R.

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May 27, 2004
3,626
Caliber 40 Long Range Cruiser Portland, Maine
You do not need to thin it. That will just require more coats. I used West System at full strength and coated the entire sheet of plywood before cutting. This also helps to minimize splintering when cutting.
 
sailingdog

sailingdog

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Oct 22, 2008
3,502
- Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
Don't forget to re-coat any cut edges if you follow Tim's good advice. :D
Tim R. said:
You do not need to thin it. That will just require more coats. I used West System at full strength and coated the entire sheet of plywood before cutting. This also helps to minimize splintering when cutting.
Click to expand
 
Ross

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
It wouldn't hurt to ventilate the bilge. Water vapor is lighter than air.
 
Hermit Scott

Hermit Scott

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Sep 25, 2008
2,288
C30 Event Horizon Port Aransas
Jared-how thick is that board you have that you are replacing the old with?

Saildog-Why add a finish over the epoxy? Is epoxy not hard enough? Or is it not pretty enough or what?
 
sailingdog

sailingdog

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Oct 22, 2008
3,502
- Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
Epoxy usually needs a finish over it to protect it from UV degradation.
Hermit Scott said:
Jared-how thick is that board you have that you are replacing the old with?

Saildog-Why add a finish over the epoxy? Is epoxy not hard enough? Or is it not pretty enough or what?
Click to expand
 
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