Want to add a fresh water hose bib to my 86 Hunter 31 so I can use dock hose while berthed. I got the fitting, and it requires a pretty big hole in which to mount. I understand the intake would be downstream of the pump just before the lines leading to the galley and head. Pump is in the starboard laz between the wheel and companionway, and it looks like the maze of water lines to water heater, galley and head are in the same laz, just forward. Drilling holes in my boat whether above or below the waterline is a nerve-racking experience so before I do, I wanted to get some feedback.
Where to locate Freshwater Hose Bib
- Thread starter wufibugs
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Do you mean you want to be able to hard connect the dock hose to your boat's water system?
That is a very, very bad idea. Municipal service pressures and spikes can be higher than your boats systems are designed for. Any failure, or even a faucet left on, can sink your boat.
That is a very, very bad idea. Municipal service pressures and spikes can be higher than your boats systems are designed for. Any failure, or even a faucet left on, can sink your boat.
pressure regulator???????
on my 9.2 there is a water pressure regulator mounted in the aft lazzaret wall that i assumed was for hooking shore water to the system but now you have me thinking very hard about keeping it ....i do plan on speending a lot of time onboard once i get this baby finished ....any thoughts on that
regards
woody
on my 9.2 there is a water pressure regulator mounted in the aft lazzaret wall that i assumed was for hooking shore water to the system but now you have me thinking very hard about keeping it ....i do plan on speending a lot of time onboard once i get this baby finished ....any thoughts on that
regards
woody
As long as you are regulating the water pressure coming into the boat you should be fine.
Water pressure regulator
Water pressure regulator
I'm with Roger.... My theory on fresh water from a municipal water system going into the system on a boat is simple.... don't do it. The water pressure from the municipal water system can be significantly higher than you'd normally see on a boat's fresh water pressurized system and hoses can easily be blown by the higher pressure.
If you want to plumb a hose bib into the fresh water system on your boat, you should do so in the water tank fill side of the system and have a ball valve on the line. You should open the valve only long enough to fill the water tank and then close it.
This way, if any hoses or fittings on the pressure fresh water side fail, they will only allow you to pour as much water as your fresh water tanks hold into the boat, rather than allowing the city water system to flood your boat and possibly sink it.
I'd rather be opening and closing that ball valve once a day, than having to worry about coming back to the boat and finding the mast sticking up out of the water.
If you want to plumb a hose bib into the fresh water system on your boat, you should do so in the water tank fill side of the system and have a ball valve on the line. You should open the valve only long enough to fill the water tank and then close it.
This way, if any hoses or fittings on the pressure fresh water side fail, they will only allow you to pour as much water as your fresh water tanks hold into the boat, rather than allowing the city water system to flood your boat and possibly sink it.
I'd rather be opening and closing that ball valve once a day, than having to worry about coming back to the boat and finding the mast sticking up out of the water.
Even the big mega yachts don't connect to street pressures and they often have flow control valves that are tied to high water alarms that electronically shut the valve. Even regulated water pressure is dangerous. At 35-40 PSI you are still filling your boat rather quickly with a 5/8" hose.
All a pressure regulator does is step the street pressure down to a lower PSI number. I had a hose blow right off the water heater outlet on my boat, while underway. The 12V water pump was left on and it drained all my water in no time before I noticed the bilge pump running. I no longer leave the FWP on if not in the cabin and actually using the water. If I had been connected to street pressure, regulated or not, and had not been there my boat would have sunk..
The regulator does not know the difference between an open faucet and a leak. If you spring a leak your boat fills with water at 5/8" ID X 40 PSI or so... You are far better and safer to just fill the tanks as needed. If you connect direct to a water tank be SURE the vent hose is a larger ID than the incoming hose that is feeding the tank...
All a pressure regulator does is step the street pressure down to a lower PSI number. I had a hose blow right off the water heater outlet on my boat, while underway. The 12V water pump was left on and it drained all my water in no time before I noticed the bilge pump running. I no longer leave the FWP on if not in the cabin and actually using the water. If I had been connected to street pressure, regulated or not, and had not been there my boat would have sunk..
The regulator does not know the difference between an open faucet and a leak. If you spring a leak your boat fills with water at 5/8" ID X 40 PSI or so... You are far better and safer to just fill the tanks as needed. If you connect direct to a water tank be SURE the vent hose is a larger ID than the incoming hose that is feeding the tank...
The fitting does indeed have a water pressure regulator. But your warnings are well taken. The key is remembering to turn off the water at the dock any time I leave the boat. I also have a battery powered water level alarm on the boat that I activate when I leave, and an agreement with couple of my dockmates who are liveaboards that if they hear it, they will shut off any outside water sources, or break in if that does not seem to be the problem. Still, the only effective failsafe is me remembering to shut off the water. You certainly have given me pause, but if I were to go ahead, where would be the ideal location? As high up as possible on the hull? Anything to watch out for in particular? Stainless support ring on the inner hull? Gasket or sealer, or both?
The plumbing is the old Qest. This is the stuff that has failed thousand of times in homes. I would reconsider your thoughts.
There isn't an ideal location. You simply do not want to do this and we've only started on the reasons. Marina water can be very bad for you. The long hoses sit out in the sun. People stick hoses in the pump out fittings to flush holding tanks and then turn off the water. Harbor salt water and bacteria backflow in through leaks where the pipes run under docks. When you fill your tanks, you want to let the water run a good long time until it's cold from being under ground in the street. With a hard connection, you are taking what ever water comes along into your tank which could lead to rapid overfilling of the holding tank a few hours later.
If holding a hose to fill your tanks is such pain, just tie a bit of line around the hose with a clove hitch and tie the end to a lifeline to hold the hose in the fill plate. If doing this once a week or so is too much trouble, you may need a new hobby.
deep six the hose bib
thanks to all for the info ...it all makes sence...
regards
woody
after reading all the input on this subject ...i have decided to discard the water hose regulator on my boat ....the cons out way the pros.....and i need the exersize any way .....
thanks to all for the info ...it all makes sence...
regards
woody
Home Depot solution.
I admit it. I have friends with power boats. Two of the largest are both about 36 ft cruisers. They both leave their boats hooked to dock water. Many, many power boats seem to have the dock water systems built in. It’s not at all unusual.
Both of these friends have a volume limiter on the supply hose from the dock. This is just a simple lawn sprinkler "timer" that works by measuring the volume of flow and shutting off after so many gallons. When you get to the boat you set the dial for how much you think you'll use. If you leave the water turned on when you leave, (which they don’t!) it can't run more than you have set if there is an accident.
Both of these people also have pretty sophisticated water filter systems on the dock.
Dennis
I admit it. I have friends with power boats. Two of the largest are both about 36 ft cruisers. They both leave their boats hooked to dock water. Many, many power boats seem to have the dock water systems built in. It’s not at all unusual.
Both of these friends have a volume limiter on the supply hose from the dock. This is just a simple lawn sprinkler "timer" that works by measuring the volume of flow and shutting off after so many gallons. When you get to the boat you set the dial for how much you think you'll use. If you leave the water turned on when you leave, (which they don’t!) it can't run more than you have set if there is an accident.
Both of these people also have pretty sophisticated water filter systems on the dock.
Dennis
There is certainly reasons to be cautious as other have said but if you do it properly, most of these concerns become hypothetical. For example, you can ensure fresh water by running the sink faucet for a few minutes before using the dock water for other purposes. Filters come in all shapes, sizes and efficiencies. Auto-limiters are cheap, reliable and not prone to "operator error". Not to dismiss these concerns entirely but if you want to have dock water, install a pressure reducing valve typically on or close to the transom. The location is a matter of convenience so you don't have to walk (read - trip) over the hose. Properly bed and seal the connection (note these are mutually exclusive things), add a check valve at or near the 12V pump, install an appropriate filter and enjoy not having to constantly worry about how much water is left in the tank(s).
About the only real problem I see in having a dock water connection is that this fosters complacency in terms of ensuring the tank water doesn't go stale for lack of use and become a breeding ground for molds and bugs
Second dthomas
the concerns are valid but perhaps over the top if the system is properly designed and employs a fail-safe shut off. Literally thousands of boats have them in SoCal. Only a couple sink yearly due to them ;-) and many of them probably would have sunk for some other reason anyway....
the concerns are valid but perhaps over the top if the system is properly designed and employs a fail-safe shut off. Literally thousands of boats have them in SoCal. Only a couple sink yearly due to them ;-) and many of them probably would have sunk for some other reason anyway....
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