I am installing a new Raritan manual compact toilet in my 86 Hunter 31. I am not sure whether I should install a mascerator while I am it or not. Pros and cons would be appreciated.
To Mascerate or not to Mascerate
- Thread starter wufibugs
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I think it makes sense to install if and only if you will be regularly traveling in an area (offshore) that you can discharge. If you will only rarely travel where you can discharge it probably does no benifit to install.
I agree. The previous owner put in a new system with a Y-valve and macerator. For a coastal cruiser in the 25-35 foot range it just doesn't make much sense where I am. Legally I think I'd have to sail for days to discharge. The added complexity and limited space for such complexity made the install a challenge (lots of bends, poorly cut hoses and perhaps poor clamping) and probably explains the fact that the damn thing smells so bad all the time. The H31 is a lot bigger than my 30, so if you have a 20 gallon holding tank I wouldn't bother. The macerator is really only going to help you if you cruise for more than three days in a location where you can dump. For most coastal cruisers that likelihood is rare enough that I'd take a pass on it. I am half tempted to simplify my current system, as pump out is readily available in my harbor and only takes a few minutes if they bring the boat out to you. If I did so I could eliminate >50% of the connections and >50% of the plumbing and hopefully >50% of the smell.
Are you asking whether to install a macerator to dump the tank?
Or between the toilet and the tank?
If you're asking whether to put one between the toilet and the tank, the answer is, NO! That would create a nightmare!
If you're asking whether to install one to dump the tank...as far as the waste is concerned, whether you use a macerator or a manual diaphragm pump is immaterial...it's only a matter of whether you'd rather push a button instead of using a manual pump. However, in your waters, it might make more sense to install a y-valve in the head discharge line that will allow you to flush the toilet directly overboard while outside the "3 mile limit" instead of dumping the tank.
Btw...if you're installing the Raritan CP II, I suggest you rethink it. The Raritan PHC is a MUCH better toilet...it uses the same pump as the PH II Raritan PH II and costs less--a LOT less if you go with the "conversion" that allows you to recycle your existing bowl, seat and lid. Check it out here: sbo.com PHII PHC LBA
Or between the toilet and the tank?
If you're asking whether to put one between the toilet and the tank, the answer is, NO! That would create a nightmare!
If you're asking whether to install one to dump the tank...as far as the waste is concerned, whether you use a macerator or a manual diaphragm pump is immaterial...it's only a matter of whether you'd rather push a button instead of using a manual pump. However, in your waters, it might make more sense to install a y-valve in the head discharge line that will allow you to flush the toilet directly overboard while outside the "3 mile limit" instead of dumping the tank.
Btw...if you're installing the Raritan CP II, I suggest you rethink it. The Raritan PHC is a MUCH better toilet...it uses the same pump as the PH II Raritan PH II and costs less--a LOT less if you go with the "conversion" that allows you to recycle your existing bowl, seat and lid. Check it out here: sbo.com PHII PHC LBA
Thanks to all. Saved me what clearly would have been a big mistake. I think I may take Peggy's suggestion on the Y-valve. I wish I had the information on the toilet before I'd purchased the compact. I assumed since the previous unit was a compact, I was limited to that size. Thanks to all.
I had a H31, 1987, replaced the head with Raitan PH II, had no problems for 5 years.
I also added a "Y" valve to the holding tank discharge and installed a macrator and the discharge under the V berth. The access "hole" under the V berth was 12" X 12", before beginning the project I removed the door and frame and cut the opening to 18" across and down about 8" leaving the lower 12" wide opening. That provided great access with out braking your arm, then I had a canvas shop make me a cover out of "sun shade" material with snaps on the corners. This provided easy future access and air circulation under the V berth.
I also remember that someone on the Hunter Owner's website had replaced the long hoses with rigid PVC and added PVC valves instead of "Y" valves. Suggest you check the archives for that project it had details and pictures. If I had seen that project before I replaced all my hoses, I would have done it with PVC. The hose from the head to the holding tank fill was very long and looped around under the V berth.
Bill
I also added a "Y" valve to the holding tank discharge and installed a macrator and the discharge under the V berth. The access "hole" under the V berth was 12" X 12", before beginning the project I removed the door and frame and cut the opening to 18" across and down about 8" leaving the lower 12" wide opening. That provided great access with out braking your arm, then I had a canvas shop make me a cover out of "sun shade" material with snaps on the corners. This provided easy future access and air circulation under the V berth.
I also remember that someone on the Hunter Owner's website had replaced the long hoses with rigid PVC and added PVC valves instead of "Y" valves. Suggest you check the archives for that project it had details and pictures. If I had seen that project before I replaced all my hoses, I would have done it with PVC. The hose from the head to the holding tank fill was very long and looped around under the V berth.
Bill
Why not just return it? Putting the Y valve before the tank makes so much more sense. Why run all the crap through the tank if you don't need to?
Can't return it Stu; it was a private purchase of an uninstalled new unit. Probably a lot better than my Jabsco, which has begun leaking a bit. I am going to look at the PVC setup Bill referred to and see if it puts the y-valve upstream of the tank, as you suggest. I would love to find a way to make all that plumbing in the head look a lot less unsightly and more orderly.
Weeellll...
What about eBay? Or Craigslist? If it's "new in box," you should be able to get just about enough for it to buy the PHC 'Conversion."
Legal requirements
U.S. marine sanitation law requires that you be in open ocean at least 3 miles from the nearest point on the whole US coastline or any island to flush a toilet directly overboard or dump a tank.
There is a good use for your macerator, Bob: At least 2-3x/year--and especially in preparation for winter layout, the tank should be thoroughly rinsed out out to flush out any sludge. That doesn't require fllling the tank...only putting enough water into the tank via the deck pumpout fitting--'cuz that sends the water into the tank at the bottom to stir up any sludge and hold it in suspension so it can be pumped out--to cover the bottom to a depth of 3-4"...pump that out...repeat...repeat...till you're pumping out clean water. Or, after you've put 3-4" of water into the tank, turn on the macerator while continuing to run water.
However, if your macerator has sat unused for several years, it may not run any more. If you're never gonna use a piece of equipment, remove it instead of letting it deteriorate and become worthless.
U.S. marine sanitation law requires that you be in open ocean at least 3 miles from the nearest point on the whole US coastline or any island to flush a toilet directly overboard or dump a tank.
There is a good use for your macerator, Bob: At least 2-3x/year--and especially in preparation for winter layout, the tank should be thoroughly rinsed out out to flush out any sludge. That doesn't require fllling the tank...only putting enough water into the tank via the deck pumpout fitting--'cuz that sends the water into the tank at the bottom to stir up any sludge and hold it in suspension so it can be pumped out--to cover the bottom to a depth of 3-4"...pump that out...repeat...repeat...till you're pumping out clean water. Or, after you've put 3-4" of water into the tank, turn on the macerator while continuing to run water.
However, if your macerator has sat unused for several years, it may not run any more. If you're never gonna use a piece of equipment, remove it instead of letting it deteriorate and become worthless.
Re: Legal requirements
Peggy, on my boat what you suggest would still be discharging residual waste from the holding tank thorugh my macerator out the through hull. Isn't that still illegal?
I have an inspection port, so after flushing a tank full through the system I opened the port and used fresh water and a spray nozzle to clean the bottom as much as possible with multiple rinses.
To be frank I thought about running some rinsate through the macerator and out the through valve to rinse out that loop, but I didn't want to take a chance that it was contaminated. Then I thought about disconnecting it from the through hull and running it back to the tank, but it was too much effort.
Peggy, on my boat what you suggest would still be discharging residual waste from the holding tank thorugh my macerator out the through hull. Isn't that still illegal?
I have an inspection port, so after flushing a tank full through the system I opened the port and used fresh water and a spray nozzle to clean the bottom as much as possible with multiple rinses.
To be frank I thought about running some rinsate through the macerator and out the through valve to rinse out that loop, but I didn't want to take a chance that it was contaminated. Then I thought about disconnecting it from the through hull and running it back to the tank, but it was too much effort.
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