Mast storage

[RussB]

I will be storing my unstepped mast on the deck of my 9.2A for the first time. It will be supported at three or four points and not rest on the stern rail or bow pulpit. It will act as the center rib for the shrink wrapping. Does anyone have any information about how best to support the mast? I have thought it would be something like a set of tall and short narrow saw horse type structures. If anyone has an idea of what has worked well for them I would love to hear about it.

Thanks,

Russ

 

[Calypso]

Hi,
I had mine down last winter. The marina took care of it and laid it right on the bow pulpit and the rear pushpit. I blocked it in the middle with two by fours. If you lay it on the mainsail track it is much stiffer. Laying on its side it will flex. I raised it on sawhorses on deck and just about broke by lower back. Later I laid it back down and to the side so I could enter the cabin to work. Just have them lay it on the boat and put a few blocks in the middle to make yourself feel better. Also they did lash it very well to the rails at both ends of the boat so it didnt fall down and kill someone!

 

[BobM]

Across the bow and stern pulpits on the ends is fine, but I'd pad the rails with foam or carpet. Support in the middle is a must. A simple H-shape built out of 2x4's should suit, but try to place it somewhere well supported from beneath, such as near the mast step. Note that on the boat won't allow you to work on it though. Many marina's have racks to store them and then you can have it dropped on sawhorses in the spring if you need to do some repairs. At a minimum you should inspect it. Pay special attention to the alignment of your head door. If it is off and there is an indentation at the junction of the compression post with the sole the block under the compression post may be going like I assume mine is.

 

[RussB]

I should be able to place the center mast support right at the mast step socket.

I pulled the head door to make more room for a head changeout. The original fiberglass tank was broken. I think due to a blocked vent and pump out vvacuum deformation. Anyway, when I replaced the head door it was misaligned. I planed the bottom of the door to get it to close properly. We have also been experiencing mast oscillations when at dock with the breeze on the beam. I can't seem to harden up the standing rig enough to get it to stop. Perhaps I have compression post block issues. How do you remove the cabin sole to inspect this area?

Thanks,

Russ

 

[BobM]

I'll let you know when I figure it out! I was looking at it yesterday briefly and the damned drain for the shower is right next to where the block should be. I plan to pull the drain cover and try to take a look at it somehow. There is a definite 1/4 inch depression in the sole at the base of the compression post though, and the door no longer hits the stop on the opposite cabinet. If you had to plane your door I'd really be concerned and look into it, were I you.

 

[RussB]

That's interesting. My head door has always hit the opposite cabinet an inch or so before the stop. I only had to plane the door across the bottom.

Replacing the teak and holly vaneered plywood sole must be fairly straightforward. I just have no idea how it is anchored. I have thought about cutting an inspection hatch into mine. the bildge is very hard to get at. I wouldn't want to cut without knowing what's under it. Oh the mysteries of places I've never seen on my old boat...

 

[BobM]

Exactly why I was going to try the drain first...unfortunately this isn't an uncommon issue on many boats (shower drain next to the compression post block causing damage). If your sole is in good shape then an access port is definitely the way to go. However, my veneer is shot.

 

[woodster]

in regards to mast on the S2 9.2A ....do any of the 9.2s come with keel stepped mast or all of them deck stepped........i just made an offer on one and am going to look at it soon ...looking at the pics it had the mast down laying on the deck ......and appeared to have about 7 ft at the step end... what looked like a different color than the rest of it
thanks

woodster

 

[Bob McKee]

9.2A Compression Post

When I bought my 9.2A several years ago the door to the head was misaligned, the hinge side (forward) had sagged. I let it go for awhile and then started investigating. The floor at the base of the compression post at the forward side of the head was also sagged. The post was sitting ONLY on the floor, there was NO support underneath. All of the loads from the mast came down to the floor and was causing it to deflect down. The floor at the base of the post was dented down about 1/4"

I removed the door, loosened the rigging and used a house jack to raise the hinge side of the door to bring it back up to where is should be. I then removed the head holding tank and cut an access hole (about 14" X 14") in the floor inside the settee to gain access under the post. I used a block of teak to tightly support between the floor and the hull and restored the holding tank. I used the piece that I had cut out of the floor to make a hatch and restored the holding tank. The head door now closes almost properly and the floor is properly flat.

Unfortunately I didn't take any photos, but the job is fairly straighforward, it just takes some time.

 

[BobM]

To my knowledge

in regards to mast on the S2 9.2A ....do any of the 9.2s come with keel stepped mast or all of them deck stepped........i just made an offer on one and am going to look at it soon ...looking at the pics it had the mast down laying on the deck ......and appeared to have about 7 ft at the step end... what looked like a different color than the rest of it
thanks

woodster

All the 9.2A's I have seen are deck stepped. 9.1's are keel stepped racing boats that usually sell for more than 9.2A's.

 

[BobM]

Thanks Bob! I was hoping that I wasn't treading new ground. No block at all...now that is silly. I'll no doubt take a look soon enough when I take my mast down next.

 

[woodster]

All the 9.2A's I have seen are deck stepped. 9.1's are keel stepped racing boats that usually sell for more than 9.2A's.

thanks for the info bob ...i was serfing this site last night and came across some info on a 9.2 0wners manual that was able to be down loaded and now i cant find it ....would anyone know where that may have been

thanks
woodster

 

[BobM]

http://web.me.com/overholtzer/impliedconsent/Documents.html has it

 

[wjs]

I have a 1981 S2 9.2A. I notice the head door does not quite fit to close....I beleive it closed fine when I purchased the boat 3 years ago. I am having the mast unstepped during this winter's storage. How can I inspect the compression post for damage? You mentioned a "block" under the post? Does the block rest on the keel? thanks.

When I bought my 9.2A several years ago the door to the head was misaligned, the hinge side (forward) had sagged. I let it go for awhile and then started investigating. The floor at the base of the compression post at the forward side of the head was also sagged. The post was sitting ONLY on the floor, there was NO support underneath. All of the loads from the mast came down to the floor and was causing it to deflect down. The floor at the base of the post was dented down about 1/4"

I removed the door, loosened the rigging and used a house jack to raise the hinge side of the door to bring it back up to where is should be. I then removed the head holding tank and cut an access hole (about 14" X 14") in the floor inside the settee to gain access under the post. I used a block of teak to tightly support between the floor and the hull and restored the holding tank. I used the piece that I had cut out of the floor to make a hatch and restored the holding tank. The head door now closes almost properly and the floor is properly flat.

Unfortunately I didn't take any photos, but the job is fairly straighforward, it just takes some time.

 

[Bob McKee]

Compression Post

The compression post itself is probablyOK, it is enclosed inside the 4X4 post at the aft inboard corner of the head. You need to take out the flush plugs to get to the screws holding the aft most part on. You may be able to inspect for support underneath the post by opening the inspection cover outside the head. To properly look at the area directly under the post and install the support blocks I had to remove the holding tank and cut out the floor. I used a saber saw and use the part I cut out to make a cover plate. Sorry, I should have made some photos.