New Liveaboard Update

[butchrobbins]

Its been a while since I've been able to post about my adventures as a new liveaboard and thought I'd share some things and hope you liveaboards can offer some ideas. I'm on a 2001 Catalina 310.

I have learned that it may be more cost effective to learn to do some things myself than to pay $160 to have a fuse replaced and a fan belt put on. My first do-it-myself project, scheduled this for this coming weekend is to replace the check valve in the bilge pump line. Wish me luck.

I learned that the surest way to get birds to poop on your deck (poop, deck, get it?) is to wash the boat.

I learned its not a good idea to let your water tank run dry while running the hot water. It seems the hot water heater pressure release value will "weep" until the gasket reseats. Well, I wish that gasket would go ahead and sit down and stop sobbing like a teenage girl. How long should this take anyway?

I learned its hard to pump the toilet when the holding tank is full. I bought some vinegar, but what do I do with it (how much-how often). I spray lysol a lot.

I learned to wash dishes in a plastic dishpan and rinse them in my Suzie Homemaker sink.

I learned a $25.00 Britta water filter on my galley sink is sooooo much better than hauling drinking water from the dockhouse or buying bottled water. This is really going to free up some space. Yes, I have water at the dock, but it just doesn't seem right.

I learned that this boat is not really meant to be a liveaboard and that I am putting a lot of strain on all the systems-which will require more PM and even with that, expensive replacements.

I'm sure there is more, but I'll save some for later. As usual, any hints or tips would be appreciated.

 

[zeehag]

i use a cup of vinegar every week in the toilet then flush with a splash of oil---veggie oil or olive oil left over from frying something.or oilfrom tinned fish or shellfish..LOL..or some salad dressing...keeps the pump lubed....and, since you are using it constantly, it wont gunk up ...
whenyou fill your tanks, if you have let the watr run out , leave the faucet on so the tank normalizes.....and the heater doesnt make so much problem....if the pump runs after you are done with the water, means that there is aleak in your pressure system...gotta find that so your pump doesnt burn out.....hot water heaters end up leaking--if the square ones--the corners corrode out........
i keep the birdies off my boat by having a kat--he hunts them and if is a seagull on deck or on the bow pulpit, he will run up and smack it on the butt and birdie looks at him like he is crazy then leaves LOL-----other birdies get eaten LOL....never wash the boat--it doesnt do any good anyway--i use salt water on mine---by the bucket--good for the wood and gets the most tenacious bird poop off........

 

[Stu Jackson]

Great input, but WHY

do you say your C310 isn't built to be a liveaboard?

The systems are no different than other boats that are liveaboards.

The layout of the C310, as I understand it, was designed to be a great cruising boat for two people. With only you on board, it's gotta be huge.

DIY is a safety issue, glad to hear you're gettin' there - where you should be.

You shouldn't leave your hot water heater on all the time anyway. It takes about 15-20 minutes to heat it all up. Then turn it off. Your prv will thank you. Usually when they pop, they have trouble re-seating, so you may have to buy a replacement. It's spring loaded, work the handle.

Heads: you've been here long enough and you don't automatically think: Peggie Hall???? Whatsamattahya? Throw a half a cup in every few days or a cup a week, c'mon...

For many, you're livin' the dream. Good on you and thanks for the report.

 

[Roger Long]

IMy first do-it-myself project, scheduled this for this coming weekend is to replace the check valve in the bilge pump line.

Don't replace it. Get rid of it. If your bilge line discharge is not well above the waterline (when heeled under sail as well as upright), make sure it has a proper loop with a siphon break as high in the boat as possible.

Bilge pump check valves can sink boats.

I'm assuming this check valve is in the discharge line from a typical submersible electric pump. Check valves in the suction lines of positive displacement hand pumps are OK.

 

[butchrobbins]

Don't replace it. Get rid of it. If your bilge line discharge is not well above the waterline (when heeled under sail as well as upright), make sure it has a proper loop with a siphon break as high in the boat as possible.

Bilge pump check valves can sink boats.

I'm assuming this check valve is in the discharge line from a typical submersible electric pump. Check valves in the suction lines of positive displacement hand pumps are OK.

Yes, the valve is about 8" away from the pump you describe. My problem is that the bilge is very small so the volume of water pumped is not enough to get past a loop and just comes back into the bilge-hence the check valve. Once I figure out how to run the a/c condesate to my shower sump rather than the bilge, I should be ok. But since a check valve was already there....

 

[Roger Long]

My problem is that the bilge is very small so the volume of water pumped is not enough to get past a loop and just comes back into the bilge-hence the check valve.

There are a couple of solutions to this problem. I used to have latching relay set up with two float switches that was fun to figure out and build. The pump wouldn't go on until both switches were activated and would run until the bottom switch went off. Worked great but overly complex.

For small sumps like this, I currently favor putting in a small and inexpensive expensive pump with small diameter line that has low enough volume not to backflood and cycle. Somewhere above the small sump, then install a pump and float switch of the size you would want to have in an emergency with a large diameter hose. This will only go on in a "save the boat" situation and, since it will remain dry until needed, you won't have to replace it frequently as I've found necessary with Rule's and similar pumps.

Ideally, you the two pumps would go to separate through hulls but it's workable to put a Tee just after the siphon loop and run the small line into it.

The check valve will only slow down the back flow and cycling since they are seldom completely tight. The real problem is that a centrifugal pump won't be able to overcome the resistance of even a small amount of debris getting caught in the check valve and you'll have to take the valve apart and clear it before you can pump.

 

[Franklin]

...Once I figure out how to run the a/c condesate to my shower sump rather than the bilge...

there is a connector thing you can put in your raw water line of your AC that will suck out the water from the AC pan overboard with the raw water discharge. I forget what it's called but maybe somebody here can help with the name.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Franklin is writing about the condensator. It is a simple venturi valve that is grossly overpriced. I bought mine from Mermaid about nine years ago when it was only $90. It inserts in the outlet hose, about two feet from the thru-hull in my case. A small 'T' on the side of the venturi connects to a piece of small tubing that fits over the nipple on the corner of the A/C pan. Sucks the water right out of there. A few weeks ago someone was writing about making their own. Do not know it turned out.

For my bilge I have a 2000gph Rule with a float switch and large hose that lets a lot of water run back. So I also have a 500gph pump with internal switch that comes on much sooner. That has a short piece of hose that goes into my shower sump where there is another 500gph pump. No run back with this setup. And very necessary on a boat with a keel-stepped mast.

 

[sailaway78]

Living Aboard

First things first, get rid of the check valve. Will only cause you problems at some point in the future, probably sooner than later. A really small bilge pump, with a small hose will keep your bilge drier than a larger pump with larger hose. You may have to learn to live with a small amount of water in the bilge, or use a sponge. The shower sump arrangement mentioned by another poster sounds interesting. Learn to do the maint. yourself. If you have to have something done, watch while work progresses. You need to learn every system on the boat, backwards and forward. There are several good books around, for plumbing, electrical, engines, all systems. Because unless you plan on never leaving the dock, sooner or later, somethings gonna break, when no help is available, and it will be up to you to fix it. And last but not least. Your boat is no different than any other as far as the systems are concerned. Lots of people live on boats much smaller than yours.

 

[Roger Long]

Franklin is writing about the condensator. It is a simple venturi valve that is grossly overpriced.

The venturi valve is commonly known as an eductor. They used to be common on fishing boats fitted to constantly running pumps like wet fish hold supplies to provide additional bilge pumping capacity or keep spaces that tended to fill through deck openings dry.

These valves were famous for sinking fishing boats and I haven't heard of one being installed in a bilge line since Carter was president. It only takes a little bit of debris pulled in with the raw water to turn their suction into a supply. I would be very leery of having on in my raw water line.