Need a New Motor Mount

[Marcia]

For the past few weeks I've suspected our new motor has not been quite as perpendicular to the water line as it once was. It didn't occur to me until yesterday that the added weight of the new motor was bending the aluminum mounting post. Sunday, during an especially difficult entry into the slip, well...let's just say it took a bit of a knock and now it's REALLY bent. I suspect the post may be cracked under the locking mechanism. I took pictures, but didn't see a crack until I downloaded the pictures when I got home. It's not noticable to the eye while looking down on the post. Keep in mind that the motor mount had a slight decline (maybe 20 degrees or so) downward bend to it originally.

A rigger I know suggested removing it completely and putting in a whole new motor mount; one of those spring loaded things that let you lift the motor straight up and out of the water. He says it would be easier to lift than the motor tilt method I have now. I have to admit, the bending over and heaving it up gets difficult. The original mounting post goes through the hull and is secured to an L bracket that is mounted to the inside aft section of the port lazerette.

So here are my questions to this august and esteemed panel of experts here: 1) The boat is in the water, do I take the boat to the yard and try to rebend it back into shape and reweld the crack, then reinforce the post with an inner sleeve....or 2) do I remove the entire assembly and install a new motor mount? How is the new mount secured to the transom other than using through bolts and washers (the hull is not cored)? What is used as a backing plate? Can I use a large 3/4" thick plastic cutting board (which I already have)? How much is this going to set me back??

 

[Manny]

Definitely time to replace it. I'd remove the outboard as quickly as possible to minimize the risk of losing into the deep. Once the outboard is off you can put in a new mount while in the water. You could use oak as backing plate if you glass it in but I'm sure others will offer better alternatives. You can buy a nice outboard mount from around $300 on up depending on what you need. Just make sure it is rated for the motor you have (or a higher rating if your planning to upgrade). This is not a difficult project as long as you have some basic tools and someone to help you.

Manny

 

[Ross]

looking at those pictures sorta scares me. That doesn't seem to me to be very robust as a motor mount. I would do what I needed for the rest of the season but would build a new unit come cold weather. Larger foot print on both ends and a much larger strut in between. Welded from 6061-t6 aluminum would serve you very well.

 

[sinnettc]

If it was me I'd get the motor off that thing before you have a catastrophic failure in the middle of the night and really have a mess! We have one of the spring loaded mounts on our Capri 22 and it works great. Since we have a long shaft Merc 4hp it drags even when raised so I tilt it up too. That's pretty easy to do with the motor up above the transom instead of down by the water.

Chris

 

[Joe]

Remove asap. Install new motor mount.... Garhaurer makes a nice one.
5/8 inch plywood backing plate.. waterproof it or glass it in.

 

[Albanach]

Agree with sinnettc. Used to have a 23 Southern Cross with 8hp O/B on one of those spring loaded contraptions for about 10 years. Still going strong for new owner. Forget the brand - it was french and rated for up to 25hp. It is definitely easier on your back and easier on your pocket, if you offset bracket cost against possible back problems and operation costs. problems.

 

[wonkodsane]

Garelick spring loaded Eez-In from Cabela's. Mounted it using stainless steel hardware (carriage bolts) through pieces of 3/4" starboard marine lumber on the inside and outside of the hull on the flattest part of the stern. Probably overkill, but I'm a fan of belt and suspenders.

If you have a 4 cycle, get the 4-cycle mount, otherwise go with the two.

 

[Marcia]

Thanks all. I'll replace. With hubby out of town for a couple days, I'm winging this alone, but will go and tie up the motor with supporting lines lead forward to winches as support. With TS Danny looming on the horizon, that's the best I can do without help.

 

[HukilauMike]

Agree completely that you need to replace that thing. FWIW, I find it much easier to tilt the engine than use the spring-loaded bracket to lift the engine out of the water on my Oday 23. I originally thought it was because the spring on the bracket was shot. However, after replacing the bracket, it was still almost impossible for me to get enough leverage to use the mechanism.

 

[sailaway78]

I wouldn't trust that before it bent

From the looks of that mount, I wouldn't trust it even before it bent. It doesn't look particularly strong to me. You can buy one of the spring loaded mounts from many places. Lots of them show up on ebay. Keep in mind that there are different strength brackets, so make sure that the one you get is for the HP and weight of your motor.

 

[Warren Milberg]

Replace the sagging motor mount as soon as possible. Garelick has a nice mount selector on their website: http://www.garelick.com/obmb.html. Regardless of the new mount you select, make sure the location is properly backed with either aluminum or wood, preferably glassed in.

 

[cephius (Dave)]

I had the spring loaded style on the Catalina 22. The owner's manual stated it was rated for a 15 hp motor. That was written when all motors were 2 cycle. I got a new 9.9 4 cycle that weighted 90 lbs. I wrote Catalina Yachts to learn it was rated for 100 lbs. What a relief

 

[Marcia]

Upon closer inspection today there is definitely a stress fracture in the making. The aluminum is shiney where it appears to be parting. I went ahead and purchased a Garlick 71090 stainless steel 4 stroke mount rated for 169 pounds. That's about twice the weight load I need, but when I read reviews of mounts (West Marine website) that cost less and hold less weight the reviews were not good. I'd rather spend an extra hundred than take a chance on having more problems. I saved quite a bit of $$$ by ordering it throught the Navy base marina. One of my retiree benefits.

Thanks for all the advice. This will be a nice weekend project if it doesn't rain. In the meantime the motor is tied securely to the winches. If it falls at least it won't go in the water. At first I was very upset with myself for smacking it, but it turns out it was a blessing. We could have gone out and had it snap off and fall into the Chesapeake. THAT would have been a disaster. This is a minor setback so I'm grateful we found it in time.

 

[sailaway78]

Be sure you

Be sure to install a good backing plate on that puppy, and you will be fixed up and have no worries. For a backing plate, it can be too small or not strong enough, but can't be too big or too strong.

 

[wonkodsane]

Be sure to install a good backing plate on that puppy, and you will be fixed up and have no worries. For a backing plate, it can be too small or not strong enough, but can't be too big or too strong.

And consider a backing plate inside and out, as in my above post, otherwise torque will cause starring around the bolt holes, weakening the hull. Putting a plate on the inside and out will cause that section of hull to function as a whole instead of as four different attachment points. Also use fender washers on the inside.

Starboard is an expensive backing plate, but maintenance free, and available at West Marine.

That new Garelick is pretty likely to be larger than the old mounting plate, it certainly was in my case.

 

[Ross]

I saw this story some years ago and when this thread started I went in search of it.
http://www.capehorn.com/sections/remotorisation/remotoriserAng.htm

 

[Hermit Scott]

Flip the mount upsidedown, then just back into the dock a couple of times. It will be right as rain.