New Windows installed Finally

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Mar 3, 2008
38
Yamaha Y-36 Sandusky, Ohio
Finally finished installing new windows on my Y36 and they look great! I used the Sikaflex products as described on their website and it worked fantastic. No more screws or cracks and they look great.

Sikaflex 226 cleaner, 209N primer and 295 UV adhesive with excellent results but don't forget the masking tape or you will have a mess! I left the paper on the outside of the Makrolon (lexan with abrasion coating) and masked all the way around. Once it set up I pulled the paper off and tape for a really nice finished look.

The Sikaflex web site has instructions on how to do it but do yourself a favor and don't forget the respirator as this stuff will make you sick, especially the primer. The primer evaporates like bottom paint, I could see a mist evaporating from the can while the lid was off!! Nasty stuff so make sure you are out doors!

Take a look and see what you think?

-Rizzman
 

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timbo

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Jan 5, 2006
15
- - Sidney
Very nice! How did you hold the Lexan in place until the Sikaflex 295 set up?

I have to do the windows on our 33. They were done in about 2001 by a professional outfit using the full Sikaflex system, but the primer eventually failed and released from the Lexan in spots, especially the side that most often faces the afternoon sun. I may use the same system again but backed up with original screws as well.

I would appreciate any tips you may have!
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,686
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Likely contamination

Very nice! How did you hold the Lexan in place until the Sikaflex 295 set up?

I have to do the windows on our 33. They were done in about 2001 by a professional outfit using the full Sikaflex system, but the primer eventually failed and released from the Lexan in spots, especially the side that most often faces the afternoon sun. I may use the same system again but backed up with original screws as well.

I would appreciate any tips you may have!
My guess on the failure is that the surface was not totally clean and contaminated perhaps by silicone contamination or bare hands.

Below is a quote by Tony D'Andrea who owns Select Plastics (LINK) the worlds largest hatch repair facility.

Tony on Sealants:

"I hear the question as to which sealant to use when bonding Acrylic, or Polycarbonate to aluminum, stainless or FRP over and over and over.....
Well here goes... The only three adhesives I would consider using are Sika Flex 295 UV with the primer, GE SG-4000, and Dow 795.

Using the correct adhesive is only 1/2 the battle. Do not apply the sealants below 50 degrees F. The temperature must maintain at least 50F during the entire 21 day cure cycle. Cut this corner and your finished before you start. Preparation of the bond area is also very/ very important. DO NOT TOUCH THE BOND AREA WITH YOUR BARE HANDS! Contamination from the dirt and skin oils will make a solid cure impossible. You may clean the FRP and metal with acetone to prep the area but if you touch the Lexan or Plexi with harsh solvents you will ruin the portlight. A 50/50 mix of isopropal alcohol and distilled water will work well to clean the plastic if needed. Remember that clean enough is not clean enough."


 
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