DIY furler installation...have you done one?

Maine Sail · May 30, 2009

BobM said:
This is a branch off my Hood vs. Harken thread, if you care to read that.

Question...have you ever installed a furler? If so, what type? The rigger wants $2400 for a furler I can buy to $1600 and $500 to install it. Don't get me wrong...I know everyone has to make a living and I certainly understand the benefit of having it done right...I just need my sailing fix and don't have the extra dough right now. So the goal may shift to a decent coastal furler that isn't overly complicated to install. So far the later is coming to mean (a) will use the existing headstay (b) has a #6 luff tape so I can use the existing sail and (c) can be done in an afternoon (4-6 hours).

I printed the instructions for the Harken Mk IV the rigger has recommended. Doable, but the extrusions are glued together with 5200 and screwed together with the 5200 acting as locktite.

I called Hood (Pompanette now) and spoke to them about DIY install of the Seafurl 5, which they offered me a good deal on. [I like my Seafurl 2, in comparison to my old CDI. Mostly due to the fact that the halyard is not integral providing additional sail control and I always hated the integral halyard on my CDI. I also got excellent sail shape when reefing with the dual swivels and the foam luff I am loathe to give up] Long story short there are no instructions on their site and I have to call back to speak to the "pro" on Monday because installation is "doable for someone mechanically inclined, but confusing."

I contacted Don at Superfurl. His site isn't very informative, but he is mailing out a package for me. A #6 tape isn't used, but apparently the DIY installation of some sail slides is simple.

I watched the installation video for the Alado furler. It is also unclear if the luff tape is a #6, but a luff tape can be used and a #6 seems to be the most popular. Installation seems like a piece of cake with its interlocking aluminum foils. It has its own halyard, but utilized a larger diameter line than the CDI I had, which is a plus and I'd prefer fixed metal foils over the flexible CDI foil due to foil vibration I experienced on my last boat [although perhaps backstay adjustment would have solved that problem].

The Harken MK-IV is easy.

tsmwebb · May 30, 2009

Maine Sail said:
The Harken MK-IV is easy.

Don't forget the special toggle if going that route. It isn't included in the basic kit (because it comes in different pin sizes), but it is required for the system to work. The toggle may make your headstay too long... Depends on how much adjustment you have left on the turnbuckle. A new headstay is a really good idea anyway. Assembly is DIYable for most I would think...

--Tom.

Benny · May 30, 2009

In older boats with the original, or unknown age of the, standing riggin I would recommend a new headsaty wire. Remember the wire is going to be covered by the foil so it will probably not get any type of inspection until it is replaced at a future date. It is best to start the clock anew.

Bill C320 Papillon · Jun 1, 2009

I put on a CDI and it was pretty simple

Capt. Kermie · Jun 1, 2009

I installed my Schaefer Snapfurl CF700 myself and the biggest challenge was making sure I got all the measurements correct. You really have to be extra careful when considering all the little inconsequential measurements that can impact final assembly, there were several subtractions and additions to calculate then I did all the math backwards then again from the middle to make sure the answer came out the same no matter which way I added and subtracted. The Shaefer came with very clear and easy to understand directions and really was not that hard to do once the calculations were made. The Schaefer is much more superior to the CDI and does not have an internal halyard, you must use your own. It also comes with a little halyard restrainer which you really need to put on because the swivel at the top may wrap your halyard. Just another option to consider.

Maine Sail · Jun 1, 2009

Bob..

BobM said:
Thanks for your responses. Lots of fun this season unfortunately. If I replace the furler it will be because I am doing the whole rig. I am considering doing it all myself (dropping the mast, having defender or rigrite or riggingonly reproduce all the rigging putting it back up and replacing the furler) because I just don't have the $6000 to pay someone and it just isn't that tough to do...barring installation of a new furler...the complexity for doing that seems to vary quite a bit from user friendly to screw and glue or riveting the foils together.

Bob,

When I get a chance I will load some photos of the Harken install. I had NE rigging swage the top fitting of the head stay then I assembled the foil/furler over the new stay and installed a Norseman. Very easy and very straight forward with some good measuring you'll be all set.

Installing the Norseman fitting:

Lower unit:

The drum can slide up and it's easy (step 1):

Step 2:

Step 3:

I'll get some photos of the foil assembly when I get back to my office..

P.S. Why it furls so well..

Prime Time · Jun 1, 2009

Schaefer Marine 750

I installed a schaefer 750 on my Mirage 27. It was simple. Easy instructions. These furlers are bullet proof. My dad has one that is over 20 yrs. old. Schaefer has the reputation for toughness.

I replaced my forestay at the same time. Mast was down. Used a sta-lok fitting on one end and a swaged fitting on the other. It took me less than 2 hours to do the entire job.

I don't like the idea of using 5200 for the extrusions. If you ever had to replace one it would be a bear of a job.

SamLust · Jun 1, 2009

I've done Harken and Hood Seafurl, as well as CDI and none of them is difficult. More time consuming than anything else, which is the main reason riggers charge so much. Call your rigger's price $100.00 per hour and it comes into perspective. Right in the range of what car shops charge these days. From what I've seen of your posts I believe you have the basic knowledge to do an install without too much trouble.

For what it's worth my Harken MK3 unit 1 foil went together with Locktite red anaerobic. A little bit of heat from a heat gun and you can get it right apart. I think 5200 would be a lousy idea for the foil. There sometimes situations when you simply have to get it apart and while not entirely impossible, 5200 won't help the ease factor.

Based on Maine Sail's pictures of the new Harken I would grab one in a heartbeat. That's a very nicely designed piece of equipment and I have never been disappointed with Harken's manufacturing quality.

Chris Burti · Jun 1, 2009

I suggest you take a look at Reef Rite. They are a New Zealand outfit and they do not build a coastal edition. they well engineered, bulletproof an offer several advantages over the highly advertised brands. They don't advertise a lot so they are not well known and tend to be ignored as a viable option.

I installed mine in under 4 hour hours with one extra set of hands to help. We did it in 2001 and it is still in use with no repairs.

They come with all required parts, line and hardware so you can't easily compare apples to oranges with the price of the more well known brands. When you add up all the 'extras' they are not nearly as pricey as at first look they appear.

Most importantly, they come with a new fore-stay swaged with a long swage at the top that takes the bearing load on the swage itself instead of the stay. All bearings are standard industrial bearings that can be replaced locally at any bearing supply store.

I have no stake in the business. My biggest regret is not swapping out the unit with OEM one on our C-320 that has never worked as smoothly or as easily.

Check out the website:

http://desktopwings.com/