reef line connection question

[breweraz]

I am setting up a two line reef and came across the pic attached for connecting the reef line to the cringle. Has anyone use a set up like this or comments, good and bad. I am thinking about using it for the clew and the tack.

Also what type of rope/line/sheet do you recommend for the reef line. I sail a Mac26 classic in inland lakes, from mild to wild winds.

Thanks, Tim

 

[sailingdog]

I'm using pretty much that same setup. Chafe between the block and the sail is the primary worry.

 

[caguy]

I am setting up a two line reef and came across the pic attached for connecting the reef line to the cringle. Has anyone use a set up like this or comments, good and bad. I am thinking about using it for the clew and the tack.

Also what type of rope/line/sheet do you recommend for the reef line. I sail a Mac26 classic in inland lakes, from mild to wild winds.

Thanks, Tim

Tim, do you have the same problem on the 26 as on the 25 with the slug block needing to be removed before you can reef? How are you handling that?

 

[Tim C350 April IV]

I wrote up a similar project on the C350 website a couple of years ago, based on something I had seen/read in Mainsheet. Here's my post and pictures:
http://www.catalina350.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=33

Hasn't been a problem for me, and I'm aware of others who have had good luck with the set up.

Good Luck!
Tim Brogan
April IV C350 #68
Seattle

 

[Neil McDonald]

Mast Attachments

I wrote up a similar project on the C350 website a couple of years ago, based on something I had seen/read in Mainsheet. Here's my post and pictures:
http://www.catalina350.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=33 /quote]

I see from the pictures that you have attached a turning block to the mast. Did you use self tapping screws or did you first tap the hole?

 

[rpwillia]

I like the idea, but what about this idea

The idea of using the stainless rings is a good idea, but what about using a simple block and line through it, fed through the hold and knotted off on the other side? Then the block can still move to adjust, but less metal on metal.

 

[breweraz]

Tim, do you have the same problem on the 26 as on the 25 with the slug block needing to be removed before you can reef? How are you handling that?

My plan is to use mast plates, (see pics below from another website) unless someone advises as why not to... These were made with aluminum carpet binders so they are easy fab. They should let the slugs pass to the boom and hold them in place. Since the slugs will be below the reef point there will be minimal tension. I will let you know how it works out.

We mast up, dry store our boat at the lake . The plates won't be that hard to remove when we want to trailer the boat. Where we sail the winds can go from mild to wild and back again. For the most part my admiiral is reading or sleeping so mostly single handled sailing... having a safe, fast and easy reef setup, that can be controled from the cockpit is my priority.

Tim

 

[sailingdog]

I think the chances are high that the line would chafe against the cringle. A metal ring won't chafe through.

The idea of using the stainless rings is a good idea, but what about using a simple block and line through it, fed through the hold and knotted off on the other side? Then the block can still move to adjust, but less metal on metal.

 

[Tim C350 April IV]

Neil - the turning block was part of the standard equipment installed on the mast before I added lines and blocks to the sail. I would be 99 percent certain that the screws are fastened into tapped/machine threaded holes.

I added some folding steps near the base of the mast, and attached those by drilling and tapping the holes, and then liberally applying (whatever that product is called - lanacote?) anti-sieze to prevent the issues with steel fasteners in aluminum.

Good Luck!
Tim Brogan
April IV C350 #68
Seattle

 

[Joe]

First....... the "mast gate" you are fabricating is a good idea that is common equipment on non-trailerable sailboats.

Second... I think 5/16 sta-set or comparable will be satisfactory for you reef lines.

Next... Tim's set up is overkill for your boat... besides - sorry tim- the angles on his reef lines at the tack and clew don't appear to be pulling "down" enough. If the pictures are wrong I apologize. Tim, I would consider relocating the mast block on your tack reef line down another 6-12 inches to get better down and out tension. At the back, I would lash the clew down on the mast with a webbing strap.

The block-ring set up will work. Just be aware that that can put a lateral load on your luff sliders. It will also pull the clew of the sail to one side, making it difficult to reef on the tack opposite the gear. Most sailors consider an equal down and out tension at both tack and clew reef points as the best way to keep the sail's foot flat and avoid the lateral loads. The good news is you can hook it up however you like and if it doesn't work that well.... you can change it.

http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/2358/f_rigging_tips/f05.html

http://www.harken.com/rigtips/MainsailReefing.php

 

[breweraz]

Thanks for all the comments.