Cutting hole in cockpit floor (12x12) sure makes getting at drive shaft and related parts like the coupler a whole lot easier. Unfortunately a jammed set screw forced me to grind off the coupler with a hand held grinder. Trying to drill it out didn't work and I had apprehensions about getting coupler off shaft anyway. It was a shame to destroy though since that coupler was significant piece of work. Now that the shaft is free of all encumbrances I'm stymied as to how to remove the shaft from boat as the rudder post is directly in line with prop and there's not enough clearance to pull shaft free without bumping into rudder with about 8 inches left to clear. I've seen other posts (for other mfg boats) that indicate you maybe able to remove the strut so that there's enough free play in swinging prop shaft clear of rudder. That doesn't seem viable (although I'm willing to try if someone can confirm that it's worked for them on the same boat) on the Seidelmann 37 as the strut is not surfaced mounted but rather seems to be embedded with expoxy deeply in the skeg keel. I drilled a test hole and didn't hit the metal bracket until I was about 1 inch into the skeg - too deep to grind out I feel and worse I'll have disturbed the alignment. I'm left to conclude that I must drop the rudder. Can someone whose done this confirm? If this is the case how do you deal with corroded ss bolts/aluminum that must be freed to take apart the two part steering hub under the cockpit floor attached to the rudder post? I'm thinking it's time to take out the grinder again and cut apart the steering hub - that's sounds expensive and time consuming. Any one offer some helpful advice whose been there. Thanks all. Bill. PS, email at wes25nor@yahoo.com if you like.
Prop shaft removal
- Thread starter captbill12318
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Do It
Capt. Bill. If it were me I would want to pull the rudder (and i have recently). That way when you get finished you will know your propulsion AND steering systems are in tip top shape. As to the how, find a young agile person to help with the removal.
Capt. Bill. If it were me I would want to pull the rudder (and i have recently). That way when you get finished you will know your propulsion AND steering systems are in tip top shape. As to the how, find a young agile person to help with the removal.
I'll try moving the engine forward.
After taking a look at what's involved in pulling the rudder, namely freeing the radial drive from the rudder shaft under cockpit floor you would think that would be the easier way to go. However, the ss bolts holding the two halves of the radial wheel together seem to be hopelessly corroded to the aluminum radial drive unit. Not wanting to destroy even more of this boat I'm going to try moving the engine forward so I can pull the shaft forward thru the engine compartment. I'll keep everyone posted on my progress, probably not getting back to it until next week sometime. In the meantime, if anyone out there has gone thru this with a Seidelmann 37 share your experiences.
After taking a look at what's involved in pulling the rudder, namely freeing the radial drive from the rudder shaft under cockpit floor you would think that would be the easier way to go. However, the ss bolts holding the two halves of the radial wheel together seem to be hopelessly corroded to the aluminum radial drive unit. Not wanting to destroy even more of this boat I'm going to try moving the engine forward so I can pull the shaft forward thru the engine compartment. I'll keep everyone posted on my progress, probably not getting back to it until next week sometime. In the meantime, if anyone out there has gone thru this with a Seidelmann 37 share your experiences.
OK, engine has been moved forward, shaft out.
Built a little wheeled dolly to slip under engine after raising it with a couple of auto floor jacks. Turns out if you lift the front,place on blocks and then lift the back at tranny you can slide dolly under unit and then lower rear of engine down onto dolly, then slide, wrestle it forward into main salon. Once forward, you can then pull the propeller shaft into engine compartment and out she comes. If I had realized this earlier I would not have had to struggle with shaft-tranny coupler removal and could have left it on shaft. That way I'd still have it in one piece to re-use. Future owners make note of this and save yourself some trouble and expense. Of course some had advised not to re-use coupler anyway.
Other work to do on the exhaust water jacket, re-soder the fill tube that's be loose for years. Might as well clean and re-paint the engine bay-it's your typical oil/dirty mess. Also have to fabricate a cutlass bearing removal tool and replace that unit. Anyone have suggestions for that tool? I've noticed that DeepBlue has some pretty attractive prices on dripless seals, cutlass bearings and shafts anyone using them?
Built a little wheeled dolly to slip under engine after raising it with a couple of auto floor jacks. Turns out if you lift the front,place on blocks and then lift the back at tranny you can slide dolly under unit and then lower rear of engine down onto dolly, then slide, wrestle it forward into main salon. Once forward, you can then pull the propeller shaft into engine compartment and out she comes. If I had realized this earlier I would not have had to struggle with shaft-tranny coupler removal and could have left it on shaft. That way I'd still have it in one piece to re-use. Future owners make note of this and save yourself some trouble and expense. Of course some had advised not to re-use coupler anyway.
Other work to do on the exhaust water jacket, re-soder the fill tube that's be loose for years. Might as well clean and re-paint the engine bay-it's your typical oil/dirty mess. Also have to fabricate a cutlass bearing removal tool and replace that unit. Anyone have suggestions for that tool? I've noticed that DeepBlue has some pretty attractive prices on dripless seals, cutlass bearings and shafts anyone using them?
Re-assemble time
Time to start re-assembly of this project.
Exhaust water jacket returned from machine shop, pressure tested fine, fresh paint and the water filler pipe re-welded to the top of exhaust manifold- all set, bolted unit onto engine block. Installed new dripless shaft seal, seems like they sent me the high speed version with the nipple on bellows for water cooling. There literature also describes this as a vent for ensuring water is in system after rer-launch, no need to burp before using for first time after launch. Perhaps this is how all the units are shipped? Ended up with new staineless propeller shaft as old one (brass) was worn around area of cutless bearing. Installed new cutless bearing using homemade press consisting of steel plate, washers and threaded rod. Lot's of lube makes this fairly easy press on. Went with what's called a split coupler which allows for somewhat easier install and removal, part of hub is actually split with pinch bolts to tighten once on shaft - I hope this clears my prop tunnel as right now it looks like it's going to be a pretty tight fit. The hub must be made larger to accomodate the machine-ing and pinch bolts. Front engine mounts are fine but the rear engine mounts must be replaced as adjusting stud is pretty well banged up at threads making turning adjusting/locking nuts very difficult. Waiting on delivery of rear engine mounts, should have before end of week. Meanwhile let's tally up associated costs so far: Dripless seal=$200, cutless bearing=$35, ss shaft=$190, split coupler=$80, exhast manifold repair=$80, rear engine mounts=$75, total=$660 and still counting, hopefully not too much more.
Time to start re-assembly of this project.
Exhaust water jacket returned from machine shop, pressure tested fine, fresh paint and the water filler pipe re-welded to the top of exhaust manifold- all set, bolted unit onto engine block. Installed new dripless shaft seal, seems like they sent me the high speed version with the nipple on bellows for water cooling. There literature also describes this as a vent for ensuring water is in system after rer-launch, no need to burp before using for first time after launch. Perhaps this is how all the units are shipped? Ended up with new staineless propeller shaft as old one (brass) was worn around area of cutless bearing. Installed new cutless bearing using homemade press consisting of steel plate, washers and threaded rod. Lot's of lube makes this fairly easy press on. Went with what's called a split coupler which allows for somewhat easier install and removal, part of hub is actually split with pinch bolts to tighten once on shaft - I hope this clears my prop tunnel as right now it looks like it's going to be a pretty tight fit. The hub must be made larger to accomodate the machine-ing and pinch bolts. Front engine mounts are fine but the rear engine mounts must be replaced as adjusting stud is pretty well banged up at threads making turning adjusting/locking nuts very difficult. Waiting on delivery of rear engine mounts, should have before end of week. Meanwhile let's tally up associated costs so far: Dripless seal=$200, cutless bearing=$35, ss shaft=$190, split coupler=$80, exhast manifold repair=$80, rear engine mounts=$75, total=$660 and still counting, hopefully not too much more.
Rudder Removal
How difficult is it to pull the rudder? I have an S299 sitting on a cradle. I need to pull my rudder to replace the prop shaft.
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