Opinions Needed: Regular Sailboat Maintenance

[sweetsurrender]

I'm getting ready to be a new boat owner and I've been doing as much as I can to learn about what work I will need to do to keep my boat in awesome shape.

I'm also a bit of a geek... I put together a spreadsheet of all the maintenance items that I could find out there in books and on various other websites. I'd like to bounce it off of all of you and ask you if I have forgotten anything or if you think something on the spreadsheet is wrong.

Click here to go to the spreadsheet.

Looking forward to your opinions!

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Seems very thorough - one thing I note is your intent to use chlorine in the holding tank. You would be better served to eliminate that and instead use a good enzyme deodorizer such as KO as per the directions on the container - not cheap but far preferable to chlorine which should never be used in a holding tank.

There is actually a very thorough maintenance list already available under the "Resource" tab here on this site, a link to which is below:

http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=40&Itemid=87

 

[sweetsurrender]

Seems very thorough - one thing I note is your intent to use chlorine in the holding tank. You would be better served to eliminate that and instead use a good enzyme deodorizer such as KO as per the directions on the container - not cheap but far preferable to chlorine which should never be used in a holding tank.

There is actually a very thorough maintenance list already available under the "Resource" tab here on this site, a link to which is below:

http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=40&Itemid=87

Thank you very much for this! I hadn't seen that list before.

I've updated my list with your comment on the enzyme deodorizer.

 

[kloudie1]

NOTES.. Kool spreadsheet !
22. Won’t hurt but if there are no traps or low points it will be fine.. I’ve not done mine in 17 years
30. Annual is fine for this one.
41. Semi Annual is fine
42. Adjust the frequency after you’ve noted the rate of disappearance. You might only need a yearly interval here.
50. A good bedding will last 20-30 years.. should be inspected carefully, but don’t fix it if it isn’t broken.

 

[sweetsurrender]

NOTES.. Kool spreadsheet !
22. Won’t hurt but if there are no traps or low points it will be fine.. I’ve not done mine in 17 years
30. Annual is fine for this one.
41. Semi Annual is fine
42. Adjust the frequency after you’ve noted the rate of disappearance. You might only need a yearly interval here.
50. A good bedding will last 20-30 years.. should be inspected carefully, but don’t fix it if it isn’t broken.

Thank you!! This is just what I was looking for.

 

[Lee Coller]

Topside cleaning (weekly or biweekly depending on usage).
Bottom cleaning monthly (your diver or you can check your zincs at this time -- I'd do it monthly, bi-monthly is too long between checks).
Waxing -- every six months, a year is too long to wait.

 

[Rick D]

Really Nice Job

I would not use mineral oil in the head. Rather use Super Lube which Peggy recommended years ago. It is available at ACE hardware stores. http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(252bs4553vliw4ym4mjexj55)/productdetails.aspx?sku=8138307&source=GoogleBase

I annually run a gallon of white vinegar through my raw water cooling system to flush out salt deposits.

Another good check annually id to look over your engine mounts which can debond or crack.

 

[sweetsurrender]

I would not use mineral oil in the head. Rather use Super Lube which Peggy recommended years ago. It is available at ACE hardware stores. http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(252bs4553vliw4ym4mjexj55)/productdetails.aspx?sku=8138307&source=GoogleBase

I annually run a gallon of white vinegar through my raw water cooling system to flush out salt deposits.

Another good check annually id to look over your engine mounts which can debond or crack.

Thank you! Great feedback. I've added your thoughts to my spreadsheet.

 

[sweetsurrender]

Topside cleaning (weekly or biweekly depending on usage).
Bottom cleaning monthly (your diver or you can check your zincs at this time -- I'd do it monthly, bi-monthly is too long between checks).
Waxing -- every six months, a year is too long to wait.

Wow - I think I'm associating myself with some slackers. I don't think I know anybody in the PNW that has a diver go down monthly. Do you think that it is necessary to have a diver inspect monthly in my neck of the woods?

Lucky for me my sweetie is a diver...

 

[Mike B]

Nice worksheet. I used to be an equipment tech many years ago and built a similiar list for all my boats. Here's my 2 cents worth based on experience.

#9/13 I'd replace every 100 hrs or at least 1x year. Also toss the old one no matter how good it looks. Keep a new spare instead. They're too cheap to risk needing to change it while under way.
#19 I'd check wet cell batteries monthly. Quarterly is too long a period.
#30 Check it more frequently. Too easy and risky not to.
#32 in addition to semi annually I'd make it a habit of checking any hose every time you're near one. The same goes for wiring, etc. Always give things the once over.
#35 Clean the port/hatch seals monthly or every time you wash the boat. Dirty seals can allow water leaks.
#47 You'll want to adjust this based on how dirty the bottom is and how often you go sailing. Warmer climates equal more scunge on the bottom. Frequent sailing helps keep it cleaned off, especially if you're using an ablative type paint.
#52 I'd wash with soap and give a fresh water rinse to the furler and any hardware exposed to sea water after each sail, especially if you were taking green water over the deck.
#61 Check them but if they're OK leave them be. You're playing with fire if you try to rebed them annually.
#64 Check both ends of the cords for signs of wear, corrosion and especially any signs of burning or heat distress EVERY time you connect/disconnect them.
#65 See #61
#66 Give them a good fresh water rinse after a sail where you've taken green water and heavy spray on them. Check and clean them annually, either yourself or at a reputable sailmaker. They're too expensive to not overdo their care. Try not to furl them when wet or damp or they can mildew on you.
#70 Have the diver that's going to clean the bottom check them. They usually do so anyway but make sure your remind them. Not sure your zincs will last as long as you have them scheduled. The saltier the water the quicker they'll go. They're also vunerable to your's, a neighbor's boat or marina wiring issues. (voltage leaks into the water eat them up)
#74 Check the alignment before you crack any of the motor mounts loose. You may not need to do anything but check them. The more you use the motor the more likely it is the mounts have worn requiring realignment. Tolerances are usually in the .004 +/- range.
I think you'll make adjustments on your own as you get more familiar with your boat. Some of the things will just become second nature to you, which is good. Have fun with her.
Mike

 

[sweetsurrender]

Nice worksheet. I used to be an equipment tech many years ago and built a similiar list for all my boats. Here's my 2 cents worth based on experience.

#9/13 I'd replace every 100 hrs or at least 1x year. Also toss the old one no matter how good it looks. Keep a new spare instead. They're too cheap to risk needing to change it while under way.
#19 I'd check wet cell batteries monthly. Quarterly is too long a period.
#30 Check it more frequently. Too easy and risky not to.
#32 in addition to semi annually I'd make it a habit of checking any hose every time you're near one. The same goes for wiring, etc. Always give things the once over.
#35 Clean the port/hatch seals monthly or every time you wash the boat. Dirty seals can allow water leaks.
#47 You'll want to adjust this based on how dirty the bottom is and how often you go sailing. Warmer climates equal more scunge on the bottom. Frequent sailing helps keep it cleaned off, especially if you're using an ablative type paint.
#52 I'd wash with soap and give a fresh water rinse to the furler and any hardware exposed to sea water after each sail, especially if you were taking green water over the deck.
#61 Check them but if they're OK leave them be. You're playing with fire if you try to rebed them annually.
#64 Check both ends of the cords for signs of wear, corrosion and especially any signs of burning or heat distress EVERY time you connect/disconnect them.
#65 See #61
#66 Give them a good fresh water rinse after a sail where you've taken green water and heavy spray on them. Check and clean them annually, either yourself or at a reputable sailmaker. They're too expensive to not overdo their care. Try not to furl them when wet or damp or they can mildew on you.
#70 Have the diver that's going to clean the bottom check them. They usually do so anyway but make sure your remind them. Not sure your zincs will last as long as you have them scheduled. The saltier the water the quicker they'll go. They're also vunerable to your's, a neighbor's boat or marina wiring issues. (voltage leaks into the water eat them up)
#74 Check the alignment before you crack any of the motor mounts loose. You may not need to do anything but check them. The more you use the motor the more likely it is the mounts have worn requiring realignment. Tolerances are usually in the .004 +/- range.
I think you'll make adjustments on your own as you get more familiar with your boat. Some of the things will just become second nature to you, which is good. Have fun with her.
Mike

Thanks Mike! This is just what I'm looking for! So glad to have your opinion on this!

 

[Lee Coller]

Wow - I think I'm associating myself with some slackers. I don't think I know anybody in the PNW that has a diver go down monthly. Do you think that it is necessary to have a diver inspect monthly in my neck of the woods?

Lucky for me my sweetie is a diver...

You may not need monthly with your cold water (here racers do it every week, cruisers every month, sometimes every three weeks in the summer). You do need to check your zincs more often though, at least until you know how long they normally last.

 

[Warren Milberg]

Remember, it's a sailboat. Don't forget to sail it....

 

[sweetsurrender]

Remember, it's a sailboat. Don't forget to sail it....

Oh so true!

I'm watching this list grow... fun fun!

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

A few changes needed to your sanitation and fresh water checklist

#17: If done properly, it should only be necessary to lubricate the toilet annually. And btw, only manual toilets require any lubrication...electric toilets do not.

#18: What you actually want to use in a holding tank is a live bacteria or other non-chemical product such as Odorlos. Enzyme products are not particularly effective in controlling odor. How often any product needs to be added can't be nailed down to any check list. All need to be added at least after every pumpout...some may also need to be added between pumpouts, especially in hot weather. Read the directions for the product you decide to use and FOLLOW THEM!

The last think you ever want to do is put bleach or chlorine in a holding for several reasons...1) bleach is highly corrosive and destructive to the rubber parts in toilets and pumps, and also to flexible hoses. It has no place ANYwhere on a boat EXCEPT for use in recommissioning the fresh water system, and then used only according to directions. 2) I'm sure you already know never to mix bleach or chlorine and ammonia, but you may not know that chlorine and vinegar produces a gas that's even more lethal.

#23: Should call for 1 cup of distilled white vinegar weekly, just before the boat will sit. It should NEVER be left standing the bowl--that accomplishes nothing. ALL of it should be flushed all the way through to the tank immediately.

I didn't see any mention on your list that the holding tank vent should be backflushed after every pumpout and/or every time the boat is washed.

Nor did I see any mention that the holding tank should be at least nominally rinsed after every pumpout and thoroughly flushed out 2-3x/season to get rid of any sludge.

#24: There's no need to disinfect sink drains...you don't pour bleach down all your drains at home, do you? So why would you need to do it on a boat?

I have two suggestions for you:

Check out the link in my signature...it goes to a comprensive "marine toilets and holding tanks 101" manual that will help you learn to operate and maintain your system properly, and also includes instructions for winterizing and srping recommissioning of both fresh water and sanitation systems. You'll also find a wealth of information and product recommendations in the HeadMistress forum and other forum archives here.

If you reorganize your spreadsheet to group everything by system--bilge, hull maintenance, holding tank, toilet fresh water system, standing rigging, running rigging, sanitation system, fuel system etc--instead of just interior or exterior, I think you'll find it easier to follow.

.

 

[MoonSailer]

It is soooo funny!!!!! You see so many newbys get their new boat take great ...fantastic care of it for a year or so... Then the boat becomes associated mentally with """work""" and soon the boat is sitting unused for months at a time. At my marina there are far more green boats that are rarely used and even more rarely sailed than there are "pristine boats" . Whatever you do """enjoy""" your boat. If you enjoy spending time on the boat the maintence issues will be attended to. But if the boat stops being fun it will be neglected. Sail today work some other day.

 

[Ross]

I'm getting ready to be a new boat owner and I've been doing as much as I can to learn about what work I will need to do to keep my boat in awesome shape.

I'm also a bit of a geek... I put together a spreadsheet of all the maintenance items that I could find out there in books and on various other websites. I'd like to bounce it off of all of you and ask you if I have forgotten anything or if you think something on the spreadsheet is wrong.

Click here to go to the spreadsheet.


Looking forward to your opinions!

You are not just a"bit of a geek" you also seem to have OCD. If you pay attention when you are sailing and when you check the engine oil you will find all of these things. If you need a notebook to remind you to look into the bilge when you check the oil you are in the wrong business. Learn to listen to the boat, get to know the meaning and source of every bump and squeek. Watch the stays and shrouds while you are under way. Remember what they look like, remember what the helm feels like. Your wife or girlfriend can walk into the room(hopefully not at the sametime)and you should know if they are happy or pissed. You should know your boat just as well unless you also have a spread sheet on the care and feeding of a wife. OK?

 

[Mike B]

Ross that's easy to say by someone that's had a boat and been sailing for years. He's new and trying to start out right. Nothing wrong with that. Everyone learns and manages things differently. It's what makes the world and intesting place. Let the man be OCD if that's what works for him.

 

[Seattle Scott]

Hey Sweet, on the shaft zinks

should last 6-8 months in Puget Sound. Don't need to clean below water line between haul outs. Bottom paint lasts 2-4 years.

What do I actually never do: your 4, 7,9 (but cary a spare) , 12 and 48. On your 24, I like to open all valves ( except wast dump) everytime I take boat out and close all when I leave boat.

I always check for raw water discharge at engine start and one time there was none; had a blocked exhaust elbow.

Propane: I always shut off solinoid when I turn the burner off - saves electricity and shut off valve at tank before hitting the sack when cruising.

I always wear a PFD; don't care how hot it is, cuase the water is always COLD

 

[petersea]

#11 fuel filter every three hundred hours might be a little on the long side as it could take you quite a few years to get that many hours (most don't average 50 hours a year) I would suggest every two years minimum and carry spares with you ( and needed tools ) If you have a drain bowl on filter inspect and drain when needed, maybe make part of the engine pre trip when check oil or once a month minimum Also consider treating fuel with a biocide and stabilizer. Good with your new boat !