Oil Change Problem

Tim R. · Dec 13, 2008

Overfilling can cause premature seal failure. At least that is what a mechanic told me. I suppose it could also limit the amount of oil that spashes onto the cylinder walls.

I always try to estimate the amount I take out by pouring it into a gallon container(knowing that it was at the F mark on the dipstick). I then refill using 1 quart less than my estimate and then let it drain into the pan and check the dipstick. I add whatever the dipstick indicates is needed. If no indication, I add a quart and recheck.

Maine Sail · Dec 13, 2008

It will

It will be trial and error re-filling. Add some, run, wait and check..add some, run, wait and check.. I would try to add a sump drain hose kit so you get all the dirty oil out each time....

Warren Milberg · Dec 13, 2008

I think the effective oil capacity of your engine is 2.6 litres. See page 22 of the manual:

http://www.ayesail.net/sailing/Hunter/YanmarManual/pages/22.html

Roger Long · Dec 13, 2008

If your engine is inclined, as most sailboat engines are, you can't go by the factory amount without having the oil level too high at the aft point. Too little oil is much, much, better (counter intuitively) than too much. If moving parts hit the top of the oil, they will whip it into a froth that doesn't circulate through the oil system and the engine can be destroyed.

Carefully marking the dipstick according to measurements and incline is part of every commercial boat sea trials but this is almost never done for yachts.

My engine, filled to the top of the dip stick mark, takes about half of what it says in the manual. It's also installed well over the maximum recommended angle. It's been going strong and still running like new since 1980.

Measure what comes out, add about 80% of the filter volume, and that's what you should put back in. Most marine engine dipsticks are at the aft end of the crankcase because that's where the effects of overfilling first occur. When in doubt, go by the dipstick.

Don S/V ILLusion · Dec 13, 2008

There are a few iterations of engine oil sump drain kits on the market, one of which is available at the attached link and may also be available here on SBO.
There are also kits which can be adapted to the filter housing line although they are generally less effective and similar to the suckers used down the dipstick tube.
Before you get ahead of yourself, you should ensure you have sufficient space beneath the engine pan to accommodate access, installation and use.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00144EGNS?smid=A1UT7JC2Z2ZP5&tag=yahoo-sg-20&linkCode=asn

petersea · Dec 13, 2008

? Did you run engine and check the oil dip stick after running and how far does it show above the fill mark? A slight bit above is not a problem however a lot above can be as described above in above post (oil foaming) Unless you are very much overfull don't worry about it however if you are truly overfilled drain some off either by the same way you drained oil or remove and drain oil filter. Just in case you didn't do it next time make sure oil is warm before draining, this will help to get as much used oil out as possible. Add and fill to dip stick next time also instead of a predetermined amount,run engine and refill as needed for filter. This is not meant as a sarcastic remark but did you let all drain before you checked it because sometime it can give a false reading on one side of dipstick if you check it immediately after putting new oil in. Check both sides of dip stick and make sure you wipe the dip stick clean before checking oil.. Sometimes it is the little things that mess you up ! !

Alan · Dec 13, 2008

At the end of my first season..

..with my 35.5 I removed the oil pan and installed a drain petcock at the back of the oil pan and reinstalled it. Ever since the oil change has been a breeze. Slide a drain pan under the engine and open the petcock. ALL the oil drains from the crankcase with no sludge or residue left over.

Steve Dion · Dec 13, 2008

Niel:

I am with Roger on this. It is not uncommon to use a different amount of oil from the factory specs. I would run the engine at idle and be sure our filter and lines are full and then check your level again. If it is still over filled, I would remove enough oil to get it down to the full line.

I think that this is even more important with your transmission not to ove fill. When you check your transmission, you normally do not screw the cap on. Just place it in the fill opening and remove to check the level. It is normally very difficult to check the transmission level because the oil is very seldom very dirty enough to show much on the dip stick.

higgs · Dec 13, 2008

Overfill is bad as the oil foams and you don't get good lubrication. Do whatever it takes to the oil level where it should be.

BroadReach · Dec 13, 2008

In 2004 I removed my Yanmar 3GM30F from my Hunter Legend 35.
Removed the pan to see what was there.
Saw that Yanmar had put the engine oil pick up tube and head right under the dip stick hole.
One needs to use a suck out tube with a slight bend in it to miss the engine oil pick up head.

RD

Mike8245 · Dec 14, 2008

Neal,

My 2003 Hunter 356 has a 3gm30f and uses 2.6 quarts not liters. Any chance that is the mix-up? I like the idea the other guys had about checking the level before you start and measuring what comes out plus filter. I mark the level on the fluid evacuator so I know when I have it all out in the event the tube is not hitting the bottom of the oil pan. Good luck, let us know the turn out. Happy Holidays- Mike

Tim R. · Dec 14, 2008

Mike8245 said:
Neal,

My 2003 Hunter 356 has a 3gm30f and uses 2.6 quarts not liters. Any chance that is the mix-up? I like the idea the other guys had about checking the level before you start and measuring what comes out plus filter. I mark the level on the fluid evacuator so I know when I have it all out in the event the tube is not hitting the bottom of the oil pan. Good luck, let us know the turn out. Happy Holidays- Mike

Mike, A quart and a litre are so close that the difference would not be very much. 2.6 litres is 2.75 quarts. That is just under 5 ounces. Good thought though.

Pearson Nick · Dec 14, 2008

Hello everyone. I don't want to change the subject on this thread, but I have a slightly different problem with my oil change. I borrowed an electrical pump/hose from a few boats down and sucked out the old oil. When I pulled the hose out, i noticed there was a small piece missing from the end of the hose. It was a small piece of hollow plastic about the size of a pencil eraser. I feel like an idiot having not checked to see if it would fall off, but it's done now. I haven't done anything else yet. I was wondering what my best/easiest/cheapest options are. I can get at the oil pan, but there isn't a lot of room. It's a 3GM30F and it is in a P30.

On a side note, the coat hanger method worked pretty well for me getting out all the old oil.

Roger Long · Dec 14, 2008

Pearson Nick said:
I was wondering what my best/easiest/cheapest options are.

Best: Remove engine from boat. Have it torn down, completely inspected, overhauled, and rebuilt.

Easiest/cheapest: Forget about it. There is a screen on the oil suction and it then goes to a filter. The moving parts in the crankcase are the most massive in the engine and should chew up and spit out that little bit of plastic without a problem even in the unlikely event that it does lodge between two moving parts.

Pearson Nick · Dec 14, 2008

Thank you very much. That's what I wanted to hear. Would you recommend running it for 1/2 hour, maybe chewing up the piece and then changing the oil/filter again?

Oil Change Problem

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