Installing scuppers -- which end out?

BVLew

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Oct 20, 2018
14
Catalina 30 Ithaca
Hi all,

Downsizing from a Catalina 30, I've just bought a 1984 Catalina 22. Over time, I'm sure I'll have lots of questions, but for now: Before I put her back in the water, I'm installing the aft-scuppers available from Catalina Direct. They have a screw-in cap. Should I install with the cap on the outside (so I can only take off when I'm on the trailer), or on the inside (so if I'm going fast and want to let water out, I can take off from inside the cockpit)? Catalina Direct suggested putting on the outside, but I'm curious for experience of others. Thanks.

 
Sep 17, 2022
228
Catalina 22 Oolagah
Your year C-22 has a forward draining cockpit. The stern scuppers won’t do you much good until you go to a New Design C-22 which was introduced in 1987. Having said that, you do need to be meticulous about keeping leaves and debris from blocking the forward cockpit scuppers as the cockpit will flood and either let water into cabin. Have fun with your new to you C-22!

George
 
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BVLew

.
Oct 20, 2018
14
Catalina 30 Ithaca
Your year C-22 has a forward draining cockpit. The stern scuppers won’t do you much good until you go to a New Design C-22 which was introduced in 1987. Having said that, you do need to be meticulous about keeping leaves and debris from blocking the forward cockpit scuppers as the cockpit will flood and either let water into cabin. Have fun with your new to you C-22!

George
Thanks, good to know! Still makes sense to install for draining when pulling out of water. And, yes, I'm upgrading the forward scupper screens (PO just had easily-dislodged wire mesh there).
 
Sep 30, 2013
3,711
1988 Catalina 22 North Florida
You will almost certainly never need to plug them. But since they have plugs, I suppose I'd at least retain the capability to quickly plug them when it matters, if it ever matters, by placing the plug end inboard. The only reason I have ever heard for plugging scuppers is to flood the cockpit and take a bath. :biggrin:

Yes, your cockpit drains forward, but you're still doing a good thing. No such thing as too many scuppers.
 

BVLew

.
Oct 20, 2018
14
Catalina 30 Ithaca
Just to close the loop: I installed them with the caps on the inside. My reasoning: If I ever got huge amounts of water in the cockpit (for example, hit by a wave; or, as @Gene Neill suggested, taking a bath), had the hatch boards in so the cabin didn't flood in that moment, and wanted to drain as fast as possible, having the caps accessible on the inside made more sense.

Also, installation note: The O.D. of the outer piece is 1.5" and the inner piece is 1.25". So initially I drilled different size holes from inside and outside transom. But I found I needed to drill 1.5" all the way through, as the length of the outer piece reached almost all the way through the transom.
 
May 10, 2022
55
Catalina 22 Swing Keel Puget Sound
Yes, your cockpit drains forward, but you're still doing a good thing. No such thing as too many scuppers.
Amen to that!
1787600589398.jpeg
The original forward cockpit drains are only 3/4"...and converge to drain through the bottom of the boat....through a 3/4" through hull. I see all of this as potential liabilities.
So, I installed 1-1/2" drains..6de5f978-189c-4a88-b265-a1625d562d4f.jpg ea08fac6-6fec-447f-bf56-d67ff27af628.jpg
And ran them aft to drain through the transom...above the waterline..
image-1783657494495.jpg
As you can see I also installed a pair of scuppers in the aft cockpit through the transom. I still need to trim off the excess on the inside...
image-1783654702678.jpg
I don't know about anyone else?
But I find it quite disturbing how much water one breaking wave can deposit into your cockpit! :yikes:
And I want that water to leave immediately!
If not sooner..
 

ShawnL

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Jul 29, 2020
227
Catalina 22 3603 Calumet Mi
I did a variation of what Jim did on the Jim's Little Boat youtube channel. I found a fairly flat space on the hull -- port side, a little farther back, cleaned it well and epoxied a piece of 3/4" plywood that was absolutely soaked in epoxy there. I would love to have used something like G10, but I used what I had, and I'm pretty sure the plywood couldn't have absorbed another ounce of epoxy before I let it dry, sanded it and installed with thickened epoxy. Once firmly bedded, I drilled a 1" (I think) hole through the plywood and boat and installed a proper seacock coated with 5200.

I know, I know. No one likes 5200, but I had it, and I'm pretty sure by the time it needs to be changed on my '72 it will not matter to me, or my kids. Had to take turns seating it on the outside with a lead hammer and having my son crank down on the nut inside (wanted to make sure it was fully seated). Then ran new pipes from the existing cockpit drains to the through-hull. Also used a pipe-wrench to remove the stock Catalina threaded nipple and filled the hole with thickened epoxy. It's been a couple of years sitting on a mooring all summer and no issues yet.
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,450
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
I've actually done that! :) Summer of 1984 or 5, on our C22 on Clear Lake, California. 95F at noon. Kinda fun, but a one time event. :beer:

The only reason I have ever heard for plugging scuppers is to flood the cockpit and take a bath. :biggrin:
 
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Likes: Gene Neill
May 10, 2022
55
Catalina 22 Swing Keel Puget Sound
I did a variation of what Jim did on the Jim's Little Boat youtube channel....

I know, I know. No one likes 5200, .....
I love Jim's little boat videos! I've watched them all...multiple times! I'm gonna miss his him, really wish he was still doing it! Would have loved to sail with him!

Hog Wash! Don't let the uneducated derail you from what's quite possibly the best marine Sealant / Adhesive on the planet!
3m 5200 is wonderful stuff!
If you're bedding anything you want to stay put, have no intentions of removing seasonally or is structural, 5200 is the right goo.
....it's not for Neanderthals...
Removing something bedded in 5200 takes some patience, finesse wins the day!
I've never had a problem removing anything bedded in 5200 if you use the right techniques.....
Fire extinguisher handy...Nomex underwear deployed! :) flame on boys! :)
 
Jun 21, 2004
3,188
Beneteau 343 Slidell, LA
When I use 5200, I am thinking “permanent” bonds; ie., hull to deck joint or keel to hull joint. I know that there are solutions & methods for removing it with great effort, but why use it if 4200, 4000, or comparable product is sufficient for the application without the arduous task of removal in future?
 

ShawnL

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Jul 29, 2020
227
Catalina 22 3603 Calumet Mi
Apologies -- I seem to have re-started the 4200 vs 5200 war _again_. In my defense, it's a good quality bronze thru-hull, and I will _never_ be removing it. If I need to remove it and go nuclear on it, I can fix the fiberglass.
 
Sep 17, 2022
228
Catalina 22 Oolagah
Apologies -- I seem to have re-started the 4200 vs 5200 war _again_. In my defense, it's a good quality bronze thru-hull, and I will _never_ be removing it. If I need to remove it and go nuclear on it, I can fix the fiberglass.
I fully appreciate your perspective. From my point of view as a purchaser of a previous owner's boat, having to reseat or replace rigging, deck hardware such as cleats, winches etc. it is a real PIA when the PO did not think far enough forward that if it's placed on a boat, it will need to be maintained in the future. You haven't restarted a war, everyone gets to do their repairs how they choose.
As an example, I have a planned anchor roller upgrade in my future. I am not looking forward one bit to removing the existing stem fitting and cleaning off the silicone or whatever the factory had used to bed the stem fitting. This needs to be done so that I can install and bed the new roller and stem fitting. What should be a pretty simple (though awkward under the bow's fore deck) operation to unbolt the stem and bow eye strap will probably have about three to four hours of scraping and cleaning added just to prep the surface for marine grade Bed-It butyl tape. This cleaning would still need to be done if I were to rebed with 5200.
The above example is the reason folks don't care for 5200. It's not a bad product but it makes future routine maintenance a real chore. In the case of a sailboat it really isn't an ideal choice IMO.

George
 
May 10, 2022
55
Catalina 22 Swing Keel Puget Sound
Okay ... since I have your permission ... :biggrin:

I would argue that 5200 actually IS for Neanderthals. Because homo sapiens are (or SHOULD be) intelligent enough know better.

"Best adhesive by far?" Maybe. It depends on the job. But it's FAR from the best sealant.

Come on, man. I know you know this.
Fair shot! I DID invite that one!‍☠

And yes, “best” absolutely depends on the application. I probably should have said one of the best adhesive/sealants for the RIGHT application. I'm certainly not advocating bedding everything on the boat in 5200.

And I've personally earned my Neanderthal credentials with the stuff! I've torn wood, delaminated composites and even broken some old hardware learning to respect just how tenacious 5200 can be. Been there, done that, got the T-shirt!;)

But that's really my point. The difficulty of removing 5200 doesn't make it a bad product—it makes choosing the right application and knowing how to remove it important.

These days, rather than trying to overpower it or force it, I attack the bond line. Heat where appropriate, a thin sharp putty knife to get started, then safety wire or braided Spectra foshing line as a little sealant saw. Interestingly, 3M themselves recommend mechanical removal of cured 5200 with a knife, razor blade or piano wire.

So I'll happily concede “best sealant” may be too broad.

But I'm keeping my 5200! :)☠
 
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  • Like
Likes: Gene Neill
May 10, 2022
55
Catalina 22 Swing Keel Puget Sound
When I use 5200, I am thinking “permanent” bonds; ie., hull to deck joint or keel to hull joint. I know that there are solutions & methods for removing it with great effort, but why use it if 4200, 4000, or comparable product is sufficient for the application without the arduous task of removal in future?
I CONCUR 100%

If I know something is going to need routine removal or servicing, and 4200, 4000 or another product will do the job, then absolutely — use it.
I think butal tape is awesome for things like teak handrails! If they come off every season for varnish, that makes life easier. :)
But in this case, I make sure to over bore the holes and fill with thickened expoxy, then redrill the fastener hole. The epoxy sleeves ensure ZERO water intrusion into deck cores. ;)

Where I part company with the “never use 5200” crowd is the idea that difficulty of removal somehow makes 5200 a bad product. Sometimes I WANT the tenacious bond. Hull/deck joints and structural bonding are perfect examples. Stainless Steel deck hardware.

And “permanent” on a boat has always struck me as a somewhat optimistic word anyway. :)

I've removed enough 5200 over the years — and destroyed enough things while learning how NOT to remove it — that I don't find it particularly frightening anymore. These days I cut the bond rather than trying to force it.

So I think we're actually pretty close: use the least aggressive goo that satisfies the requirements, but when the requirements call for the serious stuff, don't be afraid of the serious stuff. ‍☠
 
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May 10, 2022
55
Catalina 22 Swing Keel Puget Sound
Apologies -- I seem to have re-started the 4200 vs 5200 war _again_. In my defense, it's a good quality bronze thru-hull, and I will _never_ be removing it. If I need to remove it and go nuclear on it, I can fix the fiberglass.
Shawn, you have absolutely NOTHING to apologize for! :)

You were just minding your own business, installing a perfectly respectable bronze through-hull, when I apparently decided your innocent mention of 5200 was an excellent opportunity to drag an old powder keg onto the dock and toss a match at it. ;)☠

This one's on me! :)

And here's the funny part — you actually used 5200 for one of the applications 3M specifically recommends it for! Their own literature lists “through hull fittings” among the recommended applications for 5200.

You chose a very tenacious adhesive/sealant for something you intend to be permanent, knowing full well what that choice means if somebody eventually has to take it apart. Seems pretty reasonable to me.

Worst case, someday somebody has to cut the bond, sacrifice the fitting, or repair a little fiberglass. On a fiberglass boat, none of those are the end of the world, that's just boatbuilding. ;)

So don't apologize. I'm enjoying the discussion!
It's good hearted fun, not war. ;)

You installed a through-hull exactly where 3M says 5200 belongs.

I yelled “5200!” in a crowded marina. :)☠
 
Jun 21, 2004
3,188
Beneteau 343 Slidell, LA
IMHO I believe that 5200 is overkill on thru hull fittings; I use 4200. Having said that, it really wouldn’t matter if I used 5200 because I grind the fittings off from outside the hull to remove them. Easy Peazy!
This 5200 thread usually gets the crowd going!!
 
May 10, 2022
55
Catalina 22 Swing Keel Puget Sound
I fully appreciate your perspective. From my point of view as a purchaser of a previous owner's boat, having to reseat or replace rigging, deck hardware such as cleats, winches etc. it is a real PIA when the PO did not think far enough forward that if it's placed on a boat, it will need to be maintained in the future. You haven't restarted a war, everyone gets to do their repairs how they choose.
As an example, I have a planned anchor roller upgrade in my future. I am not looking forward one bit to removing the existing stem fitting and cleaning off the silicone or whatever the factory had used to bed the stem fitting. This needs to be done so that I can install and bed the new roller and stem fitting. What should be a pretty simple (though awkward under the bow's fore deck) operation to unbolt the stem and bow eye strap will probably have about three to four hours of scraping and cleaning added just to prep the surface for marine grade Bed-It butyl tape. This cleaning would still need to be done if I were to rebed with 5200.
The above example is the reason folks don't care for 5200. It's not a bad product but it makes future routine maintenance a real chore. In the case of a sailboat it really isn't an ideal choice IMO.

George
George,
I think this may be where our perspectives differ a little, and that's perfectly fair. ;)

I don't necessarily regard having to work a little harder to disassemble something as a major drawback if the tradeoff is a durable installation that may not need to be disturbed for a very long time, if ever.

And admittedly, I'm probably a little odd in that respect. :) I love working on boats. Even the miserable jobs are challenges to me — dragons that need slaying. There's a tremendous satisfaction in figuring out how to do a difficult job well and then enjoying the results.

Your stem fitting is actually a great example. You're not removing it because its bedding necessarily failed; ( although, if it's the factory original silicone, I'd bet my lunch money it has failed.) you're removing it because you want to modify the boat and add a bow roller. That's a perfectly legitimate reason to take apart something that might otherwise have happily remained undisturbed.

And yes, regardless of what was used, you've still got to clean the mating surfaces before rebedding it. Try heating a putty knife with a heat gun. :)

Where I think the discussion gets interesting is deciding WHICH inconvenience we'd rather accept.

If something like a stem fitting is properly prepared and bedded with a tenacious, durable sealant and I someday spend some extra time cutting that bond apart because I want to modify the boat, I can live with that.

The alternative can be bedding that is wonderfully easy to remove...because it stopped sealing years ago. ;)

Catalina's extensive use of silicone is a pretty good cautionary example. I'd personally rather spend an afternoon patiently removing stubborn bedding than spend considerably longer repairing wet or rotten deck core because water spent years getting past bedding that didn't do its job.

And 5200 removal really doesn't frighten me anymore. I've learned not to fight the whole bond at once. Heat where appropriate, thin blades, safety wire or braided fishing line through the bond line, patience and finesse. Interestingly, 3M themselves recommend mechanical removal of cured 5200 with knives, razor blades or piano wire.

So I completely understand your preference for butyl, and there are plenty of places where I'd choose something other than 5200 too.

I just weigh the inconvenience differently. I'd rather have something be a little difficult to remove when I WANT it apart than discover it was too easy to remove when I needed it to stay together. ;)☠