I bought a Catalina 320 last month. The previous owner gave me the bimini frame and canvas cover from his storage. It took me a while to figure out which way to install it, and I realized I would need to disconnect the backstay from the transom. Then I'd have to guide the backstay cable (to go in between the bimini frame). Then, I'll reconnect the backstay to the transom. I understand that the backstay cable is under tension (tight). Can I loosen the backstay cable by turning the turnbuckles (to lessen the tension), then disconnect? Is it safe to do this?
Installing the bimini frame, need to disconnect & reconnect the backstay cables
- Thread starter madmax
- Start date
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 24,548
I would not loosen the back stay without holding the mast in place with a halyard. Your mast could come down and this would not be subtle.
Better would be to install the Bimini on either side of the backstay. Take pictures and post them here of your Bimini. We might be able to help you figure out the puzzle.
If you have to loosen the back stay the safest method would be to use a crane to stabilize the mast while you do the work.
Better would be to install the Bimini on either side of the backstay. Take pictures and post them here of your Bimini. We might be able to help you figure out the puzzle.
If you have to loosen the back stay the safest method would be to use a crane to stabilize the mast while you do the work.
Some pictures of the frame might help. My aft frame has connections on the vertical part of the frame such that I can disconnect them and put the aft bar behind the backstays and reconnect. Thus I do not have to disconnect the backstay. That said, my lower shrouds are aft enough that I can disconnect the backstay without too much concern for the mast falling forward which I do when we launch or pull the boat with our crane. If I were concerned about disconnecting the backstay, I could use the main halyard and the topping lift lines to attach to a cleat on the port and starboard aft deck to keep rearward pressure on the mast head.
Not my picture, but that is the correct way to install bimini frame. Notice the upper "Y" frame? The backstay cables go in between the upper "Y' frame. I have tried to unscrew the frame screws that hold the frame together, but it's impossible because the screws are rusted. Same with tiny Allen screws. With the Allen wrench (L-shaped), I tried to unscrew, but the Allen wrench twisted. I think the frame is like 28 years old, but the stainless steel tubes (frames) are still in very good condition.
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I can’t envision having to remove the backstay(s) to install the Bimini frame. Soak the screws / fittings with liquid wrench or PB blaster multiple times & try using an impact driver to break the screws. If all fails, you may have to cut & replace the fittings on the frame. If the bimini canvas cover installation requires removal of the stay, I would have your local canvas person modify the canvas to include one or two zippers to facilitate installation of the canvas. It’s too much of a hassle to remove stays just to install the Bimini.
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I have a bimini canvas with two holes (with zippers) for backstay cables. The canvas itself isn't the problem. The problem is the frame. How do you put backstay cables in between the upper "Y" frames (see the photograph)? I will try some penetrating oil spray (I have a can of Kroil penetrating oil spray somewhere in my garage) to loosen rusted screws in the frame, so I can separate the frame (disassemble). That way, the installation of the bimini frame will be much, much easier (the backstay cables will be in between the bimini frames).
I have tried everything to loosen the rusted screws (they are SUNKEN rusted screws) on the bimini frames' hinges. Next time, I'll spray them with penetrating spray and let it sit for about an hour. My boat is about 50-60 minutes away from where I live. The next time I'm there, I'll post the pictures, and you'll see what I mean.
This is from a previous post
Aug 16, 2021
Before drilling for the easy out try beeswax and some heat. after a few cycles of heat and beeswax drill the whole and use the easy out. you will be amazed how this breaks up rust weld. I would only use the square type easy outs. I never had much luck with spiral type. read below for more info.
this is from acprevious post of mine
If you have stuck rusty screws try using beeswax and heat. I have used this successfully too many time to count!
A Mapp Gas torch will get it hot enough, maybe to hot. The trick is to use heat and beeswax. Beeswax can be bought at hardware and marine stores and has thousands of uses. Heat screws with a torch and then touch the beeswax to the screws. The trick is to heat the screws add some wax and then use heat add more wax. That way you don't have to overheat anything. The wax will penetrate much deaper than PB or any petroleum based penetrant. Look up using beeswax to remove rusty bolts on YouTube for more info. This works great on aluminum and stainless hardware.. I used this process on my c-22 mast to remove stuck screws and the Clevis pins in the mast head. It worked great no damage to the mast, masthead or the pins. Pins were original from 1974 and very stuck! A small hammer, beeswax and a mapp gas torch was all that was needed. Then use Marelube Tef-45 to keep them from corroding on reassembly. You can find Marelube at west marine or Catalina Direct. You don't use much so a small sysringe goes a long way.
The linkbelow has more detail on beesway
Who has bees wax in their tool box ?
Recently I retired from going to sea for 30 years. I sailed deep sea as an engineer. Every ship had blocks of bees wax in the machine shop. It is for sale in the Mariner's Catalog. Steam engineers, even before the Cival War, melted wax on hot stubborn nuts and bolts. It would seep into any...
www.garagejournal.com
Good luck, Dano
Aug 16, 2021
Before drilling for the easy out try beeswax and some heat. after a few cycles of heat and beeswax drill the whole and use the easy out. you will be amazed how this breaks up rust weld. I would only use the square type easy outs. I never had much luck with spiral type. read below for more info.
this is from acprevious post of mine
If you have stuck rusty screws try using beeswax and heat. I have used this successfully too many time to count!
A Mapp Gas torch will get it hot enough, maybe to hot. The trick is to use heat and beeswax. Beeswax can be bought at hardware and marine stores and has thousands of uses. Heat screws with a torch and then touch the beeswax to the screws. The trick is to heat the screws add some wax and then use heat add more wax. That way you don't have to overheat anything. The wax will penetrate much deaper than PB or any petroleum based penetrant. Look up using beeswax to remove rusty bolts on YouTube for more info. This works great on aluminum and stainless hardware.. I used this process on my c-22 mast to remove stuck screws and the Clevis pins in the mast head. It worked great no damage to the mast, masthead or the pins. Pins were original from 1974 and very stuck! A small hammer, beeswax and a mapp gas torch was all that was needed. Then use Marelube Tef-45 to keep them from corroding on reassembly. You can find Marelube at west marine or Catalina Direct. You don't use much so a small sysringe goes a long way.
The linkbelow has more detail on beesway
Who has bees wax in their tool box ?
Recently I retired from going to sea for 30 years. I sailed deep sea as an engineer. Every ship had blocks of bees wax in the machine shop. It is for sale in the Mariner's Catalog. Steam engineers, even before the Cival War, melted wax on hot stubborn nuts and bolts. It would seep into any...
Good luck, Dano
A MAP gas torch is the ideal tool for stuck bolts. Propane usually doesn't get hot enough.
Auto shops use oxy acetylene because they have it on hand for welding. Hold the flame on the stuck fastener for a minute or so. It will work. I dont know if it will affect the finish if you hold it for too long. I doubt it'll take more than a minute of heat.
For metal parts, I don't bother with penetrating liquids such as PB blaster because they don't always work. A torch nearly always works.
Auto shops use oxy acetylene because they have it on hand for welding. Hold the flame on the stuck fastener for a minute or so. It will work. I dont know if it will affect the finish if you hold it for too long. I doubt it'll take more than a minute of heat.
For metal parts, I don't bother with penetrating liquids such as PB blaster because they don't always work. A torch nearly always works.
I would reserve the torch as a last resort method to remove the corroded fasteners. The high temp of a MAP gas torch will likely discolor the chrome plated finish on tubing & fittings.
If you let it heat up for too long it will get very hot. Shorter heat times and/or more distance will help keep temps reasonable.
I thought the tubing was polished, not plated?
The tubing may be polished, but the fittings where the screws are corroded are likely plated.
Short answer: You'll need to loosen the headstay before removing backstays while using halyard as temporary backstay.
