I installed a bunch of lighting with general purpose VHB tape. The materials are PLA plastic brackets adhered to the textured fiberglass headliner in my Catalina. Unfortunately they all fell off when we hit 95F for a week straight. The light fixtures are lightweight and the load is spread across two or more brackets, depending on the length (LED tape in aluminum channels). Can anyone recommend a double sided tape that can withstand the heat?
Double sided tape that can withstand the heat?
- Thread starter Project_Mayhem
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Probably going to have to use primer on the parts to be bonded. The real 3M tape is the best .. I don't know if that is what you used..
I did my fixed port lights 5 years ago and they are still doing well .. I used their primer ( #94, I think) and did a little roughing of the mounting surface as their web site suggested.
I did my fixed port lights 5 years ago and they are still doing well .. I used their primer ( #94, I think) and did a little roughing of the mounting surface as their web site suggested.
What specific product did you use? 3M VHB or a knock-off? 95F is nothing for 3M tapes. If the roof is un-cored, the temperature of the GRP could have been much higher in the sun; really, you should check that with an IR thermometer.
Textured liners are also a problem for thinner VHB tapes. Not much contact area. Capacity might need to be derated by 3-5 times. Yes, that much.
There is also surface prep (Wax? Clean?) and temperature (Was it cold when applied?). Were they pressed on HARD for the required period?
^^ And what kloudie just posted. The primer is good stuff, sort of like very thin contact cement.
There are MANY types, but in general, for SMOOTH surfaces.
3M VHB guide
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I have had good luck wiith thin foam/foam rubber tape. The thin white stuff from 3M from the hardware store. The foam seems to help it expand and contract (my guess) without pulling on the adhesive.
I use the grey 3M indoor-outdoor tape on just about everything on the boat and home. I did have one failure on a large framed painting but that was because I had not prepped the surface. I did so, and it has held up fine for several years.
I'm not sure if it was real. It sure seemed like it was but it was a decent size roll from amazon for $30. The lights are being pulled straight down, essentially ceiling mounted.
Temperature was a bit low. I could not find my primer at the time of application. I applied pressure for the specified amount of time. It's actually the underside of the cored deck that the lights are installed on. The heat wave has passed so I can't get a reading on it. I do know that it was significantly hotter inside the boat than outside in the shade.
I picked up some super sticky clear gel/foam tape that I used before. I'm debating between it and VHB
Amazon is full of fake VHB tape, as well as genuine VHB that is old and has experienced bad storage conditions and can't be sold in retail. If you have trouble easily peeling off the film, then it is one of those two cases for sure.
The primer is almost mandatory on a boat. Even for smooth surfaces. I don't know why, but that's my experience - no primer, failure; primer, no failure.
The textured fiberglass could be an issue. Contact cement might work better for that.
Mark
The primer is almost mandatory on a boat. Even for smooth surfaces. I don't know why, but that's my experience - no primer, failure; primer, no failure.
The textured fiberglass could be an issue. Contact cement might work better for that.
Mark
I've found that VHB looses adhesion if it's been on the shelf for a long time. It was sold by a Chinese seller but it was very sticky when I bought it a few months ago. The backing still takes effort to remove.
Noted on primer. I will dig mine up.
Can contact cement be removed with solvent if I decide to remove the lights?