Keep boom off Bimini

[skunther]

When reefed, my boom is low enough to scrape the Bimini when gybing. I have adjusted the topping lift to keep the boom off the Bimini when sheeted, but this then interferes with my ability to properly sheet the main when not reefed. It also puts opposing tension on the boom at the end and middle sections, which doesn’t seem ideal.

I do not want to rely on easing the topping lift and then re-tightening, as this is bound to be overlooked at some point and potentially cause permanent damage to the Bimini.

Does anybody have any suggestions here? I’d like to be able to trim my main without worrying about the boom hitting the Bimini.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Rigid vang

 

[Richard19068]

I don't know your set up but i have a rigid vang and was able to put a stopper on it that prevented the boom being pulled down far enough to scrape the dodger.

 

[Kings Gambit]

There may be solutions. On one of my previous boats, the owner had actually raised the boom by a few inches. Probably should have been by a few more. The obvious other is to lower the Bimini by a few inches. Or, go to a half-length (shades only the helm seat) Bimini. Rigid vang, as mentioned.

I doubt the boat designers necessarily assume a Bimini will be installed, etc.

 

[Rich Stidger]

Prior to installing a furling boom with a rigid vang, I lowered my bimini by a couple inches. Then I lowered it a couple more inches.
It is a good thing that I am not tall.

 

[kappykaplan]

Adjust the reefing points on the sail.

 

[thinwater]

When reefed, my boom is low enough to scrape the Bimini when gybing. I have adjusted the topping lift to keep the boom off the Bimini when sheeted, but this then interferes with my ability to properly sheet the main when not reefed. It also puts opposing tension on the boom at the end and middle sections, which doesn’t seem ideal.

I do not want to rely on easing the topping lift and then re-tightening, as this is bound to be overlooked at some point and potentially cause permanent damage to the Bimini.

Does anybody have any suggestions here? I’d like to be able to trim my main without worrying about the boom hitting the Bimini.

Obvious, really. Don't pull the sail down that far when reefing. The tack does not need to reach the gooseneck. The clew does not need to be tight on the boom. They can float. No modifications needed. (Note: if the tack is no longer secure with a rams horn or similar, you will need to make some provision to pull the reefing tack forward to the mast. A simple lashing around the mast will do, or perhaps locating the single line reefing run so that it pulls the tack forward, like it should. If you do not secure the reefing tack forward, you can pull the slugs out of the sail.)

The reefing clew is wherever YOU put it. Don't put it so low.

This will solve the problem for the 2nd and 3rd reefs as well.

A rigid vang won't help, because he still won't be able to trim the sail hard upwind. The whole sail needs to go up. Limiting trim is not a solution; it's a patch.

 

[Davidasailor26]

Are you sure that when you’re reefing you’re getting the clew all the way to the boom when reefing? If the sail is cut right the boom should be at the same ~90 degree angle when reefed as when not. Like thinwater said anything that prevents you from getting tension on the leech when trimming will sacrifice sail shape.

Really simple. Don't pull the sail down that far when reefing. The tack does not need to reach the gooseneck. No modifications needed.

That might depend on the boat. Our previous boat had a reefing cringle that got pulled down to horns on the gooseneck, and no Cunningham. If you didn’t pull the cringle all the way down there’d be no way to tension the luff.

 

[thinwater]

... That might depend on the boat. Our previous boat had a reefing cringle that got pulled down to horns on the gooseneck, and no Cunningham. If you didn’t pull the cringle all the way down there’d be no way to tension the luff.

Not really true. My current boat, for example, does not have horns. The prior boat was single line--you could vary the height.

If you do have horns, thread a short sling(~ 4") and loop that over the horns. Many sails come with rings through the grommet, connected with webbing, to make hooking the horns easier. Lengthen the webbing a few inches.

That said, there must be enough forward pull to avoid damaging the sail. A lashing or forward routing of the downhaul or reefing lines can supply the pull.

 

[JoeWhite]

Will adjusting the leech line above the reef point help?

 

[Davidasailor26]

Will adjusting the leech line above the reef point help?

Not really. The leech line is meant to stiffen the leech if the very back of the cloth is just loose enough for the leech to flutter. It's not meant to hold the amount of tension that a mainsheet can create. If you overdo the leech line you'll just put a big hook in the leech without really helping the boom angle.

 

[marcham]

When reefed, my boom is low enough to scrape the Bimini when gybing. I have adjusted the topping lift to keep the boom off the Bimini when sheeted, but this then interferes with my ability to properly sheet the main when not reefed. It also puts opposing tension on the boom at the end and middle sections, which doesn’t seem ideal.

I do not want to rely on easing the topping lift and then re-tightening, as this is bound to be overlooked at some point and potentially cause permanent damage to the Bimini.

Does anybody have any suggestions here? I’d like to be able to trim my main without worrying about the boom hitting the Bimini.

Why wouldn't you ease the topping lift? You have to ease it before haul in the vang/ mainsheet once the reefing line and downhaul are set. You have 3 lines that have to be matched for a proper reeefing:
1) Main hallyard
2) Downhaul / cunningham
3) Reefing line (outhaul)

If any of the 3 are incorrectly set, you will have problems. Usually the first 2 are pretty straight forward, but it depends on your particular boat's arrangements at the tack.

The topping lift must be loose while sailing.

If this isn't crystal clear, it might be worthwhile hiring an instructor to come on your boat for 4 hrs to run you and your crew through the process.

 

[thinwater]

Just set the reefed sail 2 inches higher. this will move the clew up 2 inches without sail trim compromises. Obvious. Add rings to the tack if needed. It's that easy.

 

[skunther]

Prior to installing a furling boom with a rigid vang, I lowered my bimini by a couple inches. Then I lowered it a couple more inches.
It is a good thing that I am not tall.

How do you like your furling boom? I like that you can still have battens with one.

 

[PAC3142]

Adjust the reefing points on the sail.

I agree with Kappy. Thinwater's tack strap would raise the end of the boom, but it could overload the lowest luff slide when the reef tightens the foot.
I have the opposite problem where the boom end is higher than I'd like when reefed. I plan to ask my sailmaker to move the forward cringle up slightly.

 

[skunther]

That may be the way. I will look more closely when reefed next time I’m out.