Repair Options

rgranger · Mar 31, 2026

Yes. I've restored 7 old sailboats and have done a lot of this kind of work. Remove the deck hardware.... then grind out the pockets using something like this....

Fair the damaged area to a ~12:1 bevel—the bevel length should be about 12 times the depth of the grind. For example, if you grind 1 mm deep, the bevel should be roughly 12 mm wide.
You will rebuild the area using layers of resin‑wet fiberglass cloth. To make accurate cloth pieces, place clear plastic over the pocket and trace its outline. Cut out this plastic shape...this will be your largest fiberglass piece. Cut several additional pieces, each slightly smaller than the last.
Dry‑fit the fiberglass pieces in the hole, stacking smallest first, largest last. Adjust the number of layers as needed so the stack fills the cavity and finishes just slightly below flush.
Once satisfied, lay all the fiberglass pieces on a fresh sheet of clear plastic. Wet them thoroughly with resin and stack them largest first, smallest last. Carry the plastic sheet to the repair area and place the entire wet stack into the pocket. Smooth the laminate by working through the plastic, then leave it in place until the resin cures.
After curing, remove the plastic, sand smooth, fair as needed, and paint.

Don't be afraid to try it. If you mess up... just grind it out and try again.

dlochner · Mar 31, 2026

What @rgranger said.

Work all the air bubbles out of the glass, the bubbles weaken the laminate. Use a chip brush or better yet get a fin roller.

Do not try to get a perfectly level surface with the glass, it is nearly impossible. Do the best you can. Once the resin has cured sand the area and use a fairing compound to smooth the surface. It may take 2 or 3 layers to get the finish you want.

You have a choice of resins, epoxy or polyester. Each has its strengths and weaknesses, epoxy adheres better than polyester, polyester is cheaper than epoxy. My preference is epoxy. If you use epoxy wash with water and Scotchbrite padthe surface after it has cured to remove any amine blush that has appeared.

One of the best sources of information on working with resins and fiberglass is the BoatworksToday YouTube channel.

Stay away from auto repair resins and fillers.

jssailem · Mar 31, 2026

Eric,
It looks like you had this damage back in Nov 2025. Just never got around to making the repair suggested by the forum members?

What are you imagining for a "more sturdy" deck plate?
The boat was built with sound hardware to provide a lightweight, efficient sailboat. It was not intended to provide a "bumper car" structure. The type of damage in your image looks like hitting the dock at a speed greater than the boat handler desired. Or it might be a racing collision.

Either way, the fiberglass design makes for a relatively easy repair while keeping weight to a minimum.

It is your boat, and you can replace the fore deck with stainless steel. A metal shop could do the work and provide a metal wrap around for the fore plate with the needed sail connections and plate attachment to the bow. It might help with protecting the boat by transferring the damage to the dock or surrounding boats.

I firmly believe that you should never bring the boat into the slip at a speed at which I am not willing to repair the damage to either the boat or the dock.

High Current · Apr 1, 2026

I don't like the look of that stem fitting. There's a lot of rust staining and it looks like it's bent forward? The staining may be superficial, but I think a careful inspection or possibly the eye of a professional rigger is warranted.

heritage · Apr 1, 2026

The stem fitting on my H27 looks about like yours, but a little more gap between the stainless fitting and the fiberglass skin. The fitting is not designed to help support the forestay. Its purpose is to secure the bottom of a hanked on jib or Genoa. On my boat, I think the separation is caused by a wet core in that area, so the scew that we see in the photo can't get a bite in the wet core. If you are feeling brave, try working your way all the way forward in the V-berth until you can check for wetness underneath the stem.

PaulK · Apr 1, 2026

The damage looks a lot like chafe from dock or mooring lines. Hitting things tends to create cracks rather than what looks like gouges here. The area seems quite small. While layering fiberglass cloth into the repair would make it stronger it might be simpler to grind out any loose edges and fill the gouges with an epoxy-fiber mix. Adding a stainless steel chafing strip over the edge Chafe Guard - Stainless Steel might prevent any recurrence, along with making sure the line gets led through the chock instead of simply over the bow.

rgranger · Apr 2, 2026

dlochner said:
What @rgranger said.

Work all the air bubbles out of the glass, the bubbles weaken the laminate. Use a chip brush or better yet get a fin roller.

Do not try to get a perfectly level surface with the glass, it is nearly impossible. Do the best you can. Once the resin has cured sand the area and use a fairing compound to smooth the surface. It may take 2 or 3 layers to get the finish you want.

You have a choice of resins, epoxy or polyester. Each has its strengths and weaknesses, epoxy adheres better than polyester, polyester is cheaper than epoxy. My preference is epoxy. If you use epoxy wash with water and Scotchbrite padthe surface after it has cured to remove any amine blush that has appeared.

One of the best sources of information on working with resins and fiberglass is the BoatworksToday YouTube channel.

Stay away from auto repair resins and fillers.

@dlochner mentioned the difference between epoxy vs. polyester. Another reason to choose epoxy is the ease of clean up. Epoxy will literally react with and dissolve into vinegar before it cures. Any spills can easily be cleaned up. Tools can be wiped down, your skin wiped down (if needed) etc. Epoxy is not UV stable so a paint or gel coat will need to be applid to protect the epoxy. Keep a bottle of vinegar ready w/a roll of paper towels and you have an insurance policy against repair gremlins.

capta · Apr 2, 2026

If it was my boat, I would have a S/S fitting made to cover that area, including a headstay fitting, the chocks and wrap around the edges. Bed and secure with through bolts and backing plates.
I'm just guessing, but it looks as though an anchor chain was run through that area, and it is possible it might be necessary again, one day.

rgranger · Apr 2, 2026

capta said:
If it was my boat, I would have a S/S fitting made to cover that area, including a headstay fitting, the chocks and wrap around the edges. Bed and secure with through bolts and backing plates.
I'm just guessing, but it looks as though an anchor chain was run through that area, and it is possible it might be necessary again, one day.

THAT is solid advice. I just now did a google for welders near Deer Island and three popped up. Maybe call around and see if any work with SS. You would literally have a bullet proof bow. Probably cost less than $200 to have it made and then you could just fill in the existing dings with filler and fair it smooth before you put the plate over it to hide the mess. Spackle and Trim

dlochner · Apr 2, 2026

rgranger said:
Spackle and Trim

No spackle!!! Epoxy fairing compound only.

Repair Options

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SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

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