Too far gone?

dlochner · Mar 21, 2026

The Tanzer 22 is a great little boat, sails well and built to take a beating. I owned one for a long time and had some great adventures sailing on Lake Ontario. I'd try straightening it out, realizing that it may not be possible. If that doesn't work, replace the furler or go back to hank on sails, even the 170% isn't that big.

Enjoy the boat, I often think of getting another Tanzer 22.

higgs · Mar 21, 2026

Straightening it out will make it weaker. I would replace to be on the safe side.

garymalmgren · Mar 21, 2026

RE;

Is that rod forestay?
I would replace it either way.
Not too expensive and not a big job.
Ceck all the other rigging while you are at it.

gary

sailme88 · Mar 22, 2026

Find a machine shop in your area. I've got one that has made and or replaced many ss items for me and without the "marine" penalty pricing..

Project_Mayhem · Mar 22, 2026

I don't recognize this as part of a Hood furler. Do you have a picture showing how this is used in the furler? If you straighten it, some heat might be a good idea

Project_Mayhem · Mar 22, 2026

Ive never seen a trailer sailor with rod rigging but I can see a small benefit when using it with a furler. Personally, I would replace all the rigging as it looks pretty old

SteveHughessails · Mar 22, 2026

tanzer-on said:
Good afternoon. Picked up a Tanzer 22 on a trailer. Going through things before the spring launch. Today I discovered this on the furler (its an old Hood 810).....
View attachment 236993

Is this slightly bend a show stopper? Or just make it straight and sail on?

Thanks for the help.

My question is why is it bent? That’s a fairly beefy piece of ss. Was it just bent from poor storage, did it get stepped on. Is it from wear and tear? Will a new one just bend?
I would not let that rob me of a day sailing.

dLj · Mar 22, 2026

This is on a Tanzer 22. You are likely day sailing only. Just straighten out that rod and go sailing...

A method to straighten it out that will cause no further damage is to make three blocks of wood no more than about 1" wide, cut a half-round groove in them to match the radius of the bar you want to straighten and place two on each end of a vice and the third piece centered between them. If you want to get "fancy", you can make it do that they stay put on the vice jaws (technically called soft jaws), I've often just used tape to hold them in place. Put the bend so that the high spot of the bend is at the center piece and slowly close the jaws of the vice straightening the part. You can change the width of the two outside pieces to accommodate different bend radii. With practice and patience you can straighten (or bend as desired) to quite a high precision. Might be a bit of a pain to do on that long piece. I have a vice that is not mounted on a bench, and will take it to the marina and put it on the ground. Position the long piece you are working on, might need to put in some blocks to get everything aligned up right and then go to work right there on the ground. the biggest part of that job is getting things aligned...

dj

capta · Mar 22, 2026

Since it is a small boat, I would suggest you take that bit to a real, not marine, machine shop, and have them straighten it. It probably would be very affordable, as I've found most of those shops look at something unique, rather than their normal jobs, as a challenge, and even fun. With heat and care, it should go back into shape. Beating it with a hammer, without heat, is not recommended.

Caboteur · Mar 22, 2026

That rod seemes to be at the top and doesn’t rotate. Does it impede anything as it is? If not why fixe it?

higgs · Mar 22, 2026

If you don't replace it, whenever the wind kicks up, you will be wondering about the fitting - will it hold? Replace it now and forget about it.

garymalmgren · Mar 23, 2026

That bend/damage is at the top of the mast where you can't keep an eye on it.
Disassemble, recondition the drum and swivel. Refit a new piece of rod or wire with Sta Lok fittings and off you go,

The damage is probably caused when lowering the mast.
As for straightening it; how many times has it bent and been straightened in its life.
Each time would weaken it.

Not a big spend.

Gary

rgranger · Mar 25, 2026

sailme88 said:
Find a machine shop in your area. I've got one that has made and or replaced many ss items for me and without the "marine" penalty pricing..

I've had several good experiences with local machine shops and welders. They are often able to get you something as good or better for a lot less $$$ and you end up have "a guy for that" for future projects.

Justin_NSA · Mar 26, 2026

I have a Hood 810 on my Hunter 30T. Everyone hates them and understand why. I just live with it. Perhaps this issue is a sign you should replace it(?)

Project_Mayhem · Mar 26, 2026

Justin_NSA said:
I have a Hood 810 on my Hunter 30T. Everyone hates them and understand why. I just live with it. Perhaps this issue is a sign you should replace it(?)

If I remember correctly, Hood actually did a recall on this style of furler. I found this when trying to find the PDF regarding the recall that I read about a few month back (the recall was at least a decade ago).

"Hood yacht systems customer's that currently own a line drive (LD) furling system, can easly upgrade to a single line (SL) system. The drive unit assembly is the only part that needs to be purchased to obtain a single line system. The extrusions and the halyard swivel remain on your headstay, you do not need to buy these parts. The SL was designed as an upgrade to the LD system, giving the owner reefing capability. The SL system has stainless bearings thus increasing durability. With the Hood customer upgrade discount in place, there is no less expensive option to obtain a single line system on the market. "

Justin_NSA · Mar 26, 2026

Project_Mayhem said:
If I remember correctly, Hood actually did a recall on this style of furler. I found this when trying to find the PDF regarding the recall that I read about a few month back (the recall was at least a decade ago).

"Hood yacht systems customer's that currently own a line drive (LD) furling system, can easly upgrade to a single line (SL) system. The drive unit assembly is the only part that needs to be purchased to obtain a single line system. The extrusions and the halyard swivel remain on your headstay, you do not need to buy these parts. The SL was designed as an upgrade to the LD system, giving the owner reefing capability. The SL system has stainless bearings thus increasing durability. With the Hood customer upgrade discount in place, there is no less expensive option to obtain a single line system on the market. "

They stopped selling the upgrade kits too. I was too late.