ODay 222 Chainplate Enlargement

[JimGate]

Although my chainplates look “good” I’m thinking it’s best to beef them up a bit. Im looking for suggestions on how to go about getting the hardware. Stainless steel strip with holes to pair up with the holes on the current chainplates and then a couple new holes for additional bolts through the bulkhead. Here is a pic of the starboard unit.
Thank you, Jim

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Use a chainplate for a larger model and modify it? Personally, I would just extend it. Add a second piece of metal that shares the same original bolts as the existing chain plate. 304 Stainless should be fine but you can also search for part called a "tang". It's unlikely that you'll find anything, except for another of the same chainplate, that will match up to the existing holes. Drilling stainless isn't that bad. Get a good bit and drill. Use some kind of lubricant while drilling.

The new piece wont be touching the wood. Use a few washers to fill that small gap.

 

[dlochner]

McMaster.com will likely have some SS that can be machined to make the new chainplates. While you are doing this, inspect the bulkhead for any damage to the plywood. Drill the existing holes oversize and then fill with thickened epoxy and drill new holes. Be sure to index where the holes.

 

[jssailem]

Jim.
Looking at the inside, it looks strong construction designed to control of the forces on a 200sqft sail structure. If the bolts through the bulkhead are sound, then the mast will not be coming down as a result of a failure on the interior.

The question would be what does the chain plate look like where the shroud attaches above deck.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Despite my earlier suggestion, I think that if it's held up for 40 or so years, there's no need to do anything other than inspection and maintenance.

I may not be able to see the whole picture but if it's an L bracket with the load applied to the top, I would assume that it would have to bend and pull through the deck before it ever applies significant force to the bulkhead

 

[JimGate]

Jim.
Looking at the inside, it looks strong construction designed to control of the forces on a 200sqft sail structure. If the bolts through the bulkhead are sound, then the mast will not be coming down as a result of a failure on the interior.

The question would be what does the chain plate look like where the shroud attaches above deck.

Thank you for your input. The deck on and around that area is flat and sounds solid when tapped but there are small cracks on the surface.

 

[dlochner]

Thank you for your input. The deck on and around that area is flat and sounds solid when tapped but there are small cracks on the surface.

The small cracks are probably cosmetic and just gelcoat. The area around chainplates gets stressed a lot from the tension on the rig.

Two common issues with chainplates are corrosion and the bolt holes going oval. The only way to determine if a chainplate has either of these issues is to remove it and inspect it. The third problem is leaking and damaging the bulkhead or knee to which the chainplate is attached.

If the chainplate shows any sign of corrosion, like pitting, it needs to be replaced.

If the bolt holes are oval, it is time to clean and fill the holes with thickened epoxy and redrill them. When the chainplates are reinstalled make sure they are flush and tight against the bulkhead. The friction against the bulkhead is as important in transmitting the rigging loads as the bolts.

Good luck.

 

[DanC]

From '14 to '23 I owned a 222. When I bought her, she had a crack in the deck at the starboard chainplate and a sketchy repair at the bulkhead brackets. I removed the bulkheads (which were rotted out at the chainplate brackets) and the galley and took her to a fiberglass boat repair shop here in Katy. The guy removed a section of the upper skin around the chainplate and dug out all the soaked balsa. I had him fill in the void with the same substance he uses when rebuilding powerboat transoms. He then glassed over the top and added some non-skid. It didn’t bother me that the non-skid didn’t match the rest of the deck as it is a 40 yr old boat and some repairs are to be expected. I then bought a sheet of Okoume BS1088 plywood and replaced the midship bulkheads and galley. The fiberglass repair had given me a solid, waterproof spacer between the U-bolt chainplates (sealed with 3M 4200) and the interior angled brackets and bulkhead.

 

[JimGate]

Jim.
Looking at the inside, it looks strong construction designed to control of the forces on a 200sqft sail structure. If the bolts through the bulkhead are sound, then the mast will not be coming down as a result of a failure on the interior.

The question would be what does the chain plate look like where the shroud attaches above deck.

Deck looks good on both sides at chain plate. Thx for your input. I reinforced the plates at the bulkhead (See above) Originals looked good but thought …why not.

 

[JimGate]

McMaster.com will likely have some SS that can be machined to make the new chainplates. While you are doing this, inspect the bulkhead for any damage to the plywood. Drill the existing holes oversize and then fill with thickened epoxy and drill new holes. Be sure to index where the holes.

Got the plates from McMasters, thx. See above.

 

[JimGate]

Use a chainplate for a larger model and modify it? Personally, I would just extend it. Add a second piece of metal that shares the same original bolts as the existing chain plate. 304 Stainless should be fine but you can also search for part called a "tang". It's unlikely that you'll find anything, except for another of the same chainplate, that will match up to the existing holes. Drilling stainless isn't that bad. Get a good bit and drill. Use some kind of lubricant while drilling.

The new piece wont be touching the wood. Use a few washers to fill that small gap.

View attachment 236818

Thanks! SS plates from McMasters. Original plates are underneath.

 

[jssailem]

That sure looks solid. Nice. Will let you sleep at night.