Replacing injectors follow-up - Racor filter upgrade?

Oct 26, 2008
6,330
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
Problems are still not resolved. At least I got home to my own slip and can relax a bit before tackling these issues. I had to wait a few days in Atlantic City for new injectors and fuel lines to be delivered. I removed the old injectors on Friday and, indeed, the middle one had failed internally, so I'm not sorry I replaced the set of 3. I installed the new injectors and the engine ran perfectly at all rpm levels ... in the slip. I took the boat out to trial in the harbor and rpm dropped off as before. I can't even describe how frustrated I felt and to add to the pressure, the forecast indicated that starting Monday (today) the conditions would be unsuitable for at least a week to move the boat home via the Atlantic (Hurricane Erin approaching). With no alternative, I set out Saturday with disabled engine to sail north to Barnegat Inlet and count on towing service to get inside to my slip. With that accomplished I'm now going to tackle what appears to be fuel delivery issues.

I will start by examining every component starting at the fuel tank to the injector pressure pump. I do not believe there is any malfunction in the pressurized system. It appears to me that under load I am either sucking air into the fuel or water in the fuel is getting sucked into the delivery while underway. I'll even consider pumping out the tank contents entirely.

I have a couple of questions. A mechanic recommended that I replace my 200 series Racor Filter (the type with a spin on filter element in a metal casing) with a another Racor model that uses replaceable filter elements. The Racor on my boat is original and 26 years old. The location makes it difficult to observe and service. I read a Catalina 320 Association article that described replacing it with a 500 series filter and locating it right next to the fuel tank at a far better location. I also read some SBO posts with various recommendations, some also recommending the 500 series even though the capacity of that model FAR exceeds the needs of our small engines. Those posts were from 2017. Any new opinions for the Racor replacement?

Second question is about a foamy-looking brown liquid I found in a small puddle under the engine both when I arrived in Atlantic City and again when I arrived home on Saturday (I ran the engine enough to limp out of Atlantic City and get far enough from land to sail in one direction to Barnegat). The gunk was more watery than oily and it may be related to the coolant - I will have to see. I am going to change my oil first thing - but I did change it earlier this season. I have not had any issue with overheating. Operating temps have always been normal and coolant levels are normal and never changed in the bottle. Any thoughts on what it could be? I suspect that it could be liquid hiding out in recesses of the bottom that only was revealed as the boat moves through the rougher-than-normal wave patterns.
 
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Sep 25, 2008
7,547
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
About all I can offer is empathy. Sounds like your plan to define where is problem is step-by-step as the logical approach.
As to the brown liquid, that’s what weathered oil looks like when mixed with water. If your tranny doesnt use lube oil, at least that’s one less source but it sounds like old oil from your description.
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,115
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
replace my 200 series Racor Filter (the type with a spin on filter element in a metal casing)
Any new opinions for the Racor replacement?
Glad you made it home. Nope, no new options, same answer: 200 series: cheaper housing, costlier filters; 500 series - easier swapout, less leaks, costlier housing, cheaper filters. All of our engines use lots less than any of these filters are rated for; i.e., all these filters are waaay oversized for our use.

Have you checked your lift pump and its filter?

You're a regular here, so I'm sure you've seen this but here again, same OP, two different forums with similar replies, so you get both.

Fuel Starvation and The Obscure Check Ball Valve
Fuel Starvation and The Obscure Check Ball Valve
and
Fuel Starvation and The Obscure Ball Check Valve

Good luck, Scotty.
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,330
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
Glad you made it home. Nope, no new options, same answer: 200 series: cheaper housing, costlier filters; 500 series - easier swapout, less leaks, costlier housing, cheaper filters. All of our engines use lots less than any of these filters are rated for; i.e., all these filters are waaay oversized for our use.

Have you checked your lift pump and its filter?

You're a regular here, so I'm sure you've seen this but here again, same OP, two different forums with similar replies, so you get both.

Fuel Starvation and The Obscure Check Ball Valve
Fuel Starvation and The Obscure Check Ball Valve
and
Fuel Starvation and The Obscure Ball Check Valve

Good luck, Scotty.
Wow! I was thinking about the lift pump. I had read about the membrane inside it & wondered if this simple mechanism could be the problem. Nobody else has mentioned it and it has been one of my nagging concerns. Also, I have read the posts (there even was a recent post where somebody cleaned the "Racor check ball valve" to resolve their issue)! I didn't think of it but I certainly will look at it now!

It's funny how the circumstance can rattle your state of mind. When I was at anchor, my mind was a little paralyzed. Anchoring in Atlantic City was madness (but at least the holding was very good). I was anchored for 4 days & nights before moving to a slip. I only moved to the slip when I determined to replace injectors & needed to wait for parts. The marina had limited space & time for me, but I learned from the mechanic that I called that they can't force you out when you are in need of repairs. Regardless, I felt incredibly uncomfortable in a strange marina, not knowing if I was welcome to stay or how much it was going to cost.

At anchor, tour boats loaded with people & loud music, fishing boats, jet skis zipped through the anchorage without a care for their wake or where your anchor might lie. Strong currents moved the boat around in strange configurations with the wind. I felt trapped by the NE winds & associated rough conditions on the ocean. I got advice that I would run aground if I tried the NJ intercoastal between AC & Barnegat. I had a tiny weather window over the weekend for me to sail back to Barnegat & the uncertainty was unnerving. The hurricane was approaching & I didn't want to be stuck there for the duration of it.

Now that I'm back in my own slip, I can relax & take logical steps! It feels 100% better now!
 
Jan 30, 2012
1,150
Nor'Sea 27 "Kiwanda" Portland/ Anacortes
If always the same result, (no matter injector replacement, filter replacement) maybe look at the only component that can give you reliable headaches. First make sure the guard filter (the one on the motor just upstream of the high pressure pump) is brand new. Filter strangles would effect all fuel delivery to all injectors, injectors (all replaced) would eliminate every injector based delivery problem. High pressure pump (even one of the three circuits) would cripple at least one of the three injectors. So ask: Is overall fuel delivery strangled before the high pressure pump (thus effecting all injectors ability to provide fuel) or is it one or more of the (3) high pressure pump circuits? As to overall supply, easy to eliminate an overall fuel filter problem. Get a new 5 gal can, put the fuel intake into the new can, and use this new fuel source. If no joy, then you know the answer.
 

Blitz

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Jul 10, 2007
713
Seidelmann 34 Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Scott

Can you recreate the issue while in the slip to help you diagnose the problem?

I would start with a five gallon day tank with clean filtered fuel (use one of those filter funnels to fill) and insert a fuel line in there to your first filter (Racor) to test things out. This will eliminate the tank or pick up as a problem if successful. I found an issue a few years ago this way when I thought the tanks and pickup was not a problem with a small fuel logged piece of debris that would clog the pick up.

Then try it after the racor with the clean fuel.
 
Nov 21, 2012
778
Yamaha 33 Port Ludlow, WA
I too suffered from a fuel delivery problem. I used the parts cannon approach - replace everything. Fuel line, filters, bleed screws, clamps, lift pump, new Racor 200 series housing and filters, Except it didn't work. Then I replaced all the banjo bolts and crush washers and that solved it, permanently. 6 years and counting.
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,330
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
Scott

Can you recreate the issue while in the slip to help you diagnose the problem?

I would start with a five gallon day tank with clean filtered fuel (use one of those filter funnels to fill) and insert a fuel line in there to your first filter (Racor) to test things out. This will eliminate the tank or pick up as a problem if successful. I found an issue a few years ago this way when I thought the tanks and pickup was not a problem with a small fuel logged piece of debris that would clog the pick up.

Then try it after the racor with the clean fuel.
I haven't been able to diagnose at anchor or in the slip while running in neutral. It will actually be more difficult to do sea trials now that I'm at home because we have about a mile run thru a very narrow and shallow channel to get to open water. The last thing I want is for the engine to kill and find myself anchoring in a channel or drifting into the mud!

I do have a 5 gallon jerry can filled with fresh fuel but I'm not sure logistically how to bypass the tank. Do I place the jerry can on the floor of the boat in the aft locker next to the tank and disconnect the fuel line at the tank elbow and just stick it in the can? That won't bypass the filtration system. Or do I place the jerry can on the sole in the cabin and find a hose long enough to feed the injector pump from the can? Doesn't the fuel need to go thru the lift pump first to feed the injector pump? The secondary filter is between the lift pump and the injection pump. The order goes: From tank, thru shut-off elbow, long rubber hose to Racor, short hose to mechanical lift pump, short metal weave line to secondary filter (mounted on engine), and then rubber hose to the injector pump. Where does the can need to be to feed the injector pump? The picture below is the lift pump and secondary filter when I had things apart several years ago.
 

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Ward H

.
Nov 7, 2011
3,807
Catalina 30 Mk II Cedar Creek, Bayville NJ
Scott, That picture helps to understand your setup.
I'd go with the simplest test first. Change both fuel filters. Try to capture the fuel from the filters and put it in a clear bottle. Let it settle and see what the condition of the fuel is.

If the fuel is clean, then I'd go with feeding the Racor from the can. That would rule out the fuel tank and pick up tube. Put the can wherever is the safest location. Probably next to the tank.

Once that is ruled out I'd borrow an electric fuel pump (someone at the marina has one or we can put one together) and pump from the can to the injector pump.

Your problem started on a rough ocean ride back from CM. That tell's me your tank probably got stirred up and started sucking crap. My bet is still on the filters.
 
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Blitz

.
Jul 10, 2007
713
Seidelmann 34 Atlantic Highlands, NJ
I haven't been able to diagnose at anchor or in the slip while running in neutral.
Can you run at your dock in gear?

Be sure to use clean fresh fuel for all your tests.

I agree with Ward's clarification:
Feed the Racor (if you know the filter is clean) from the Jerry can to rule out the fuel tank and pick up tube.

If ok, then I would feed it directly to the lift pump from the clean Jerry can tank. If ok then there is no problem with the lift pump. If there is a problem you can try the electric pump.

Please remember your diesel return will still be going to your boat tank when you use the Jerry can so be sure you don't over fill your tank by having enough head space
 
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Feb 26, 2004
23,115
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Also, I have read the posts (there even was a recent post where somebody cleaned the "Racor check ball valve" to resolve their issue)! I didn't think of it but I certainly will look at it now!
IIRC, I also added to my post in the C34 forum (and maybe NOT in the sbo one) that I had a problem a year later. What happened is that while I cleared the check valve out, I had neglected to clean the rest of the inside top of the housing from collected crud. So, when you clear the check valve, make sure you completely clean the entire rest of the inside of that housing. Take the housing off whatever it is attached to, and clean clean clean!
 
Jan 30, 2012
1,150
Nor'Sea 27 "Kiwanda" Portland/ Anacortes
Scott - Make up a length of fuel line from the lift pump intake and long enough to reach into the bottom of a 5 gal jug located wherever you fancy. No need to fill the jug more than half. Set it on the floor (restrained so it cannot upset.) This aux. fuel line make up is simple: long fuel line, suitable end fitting w/ hose clamp to match the lift pump intake. Any auto supply will have the end fitting you need (straight barb or banjo.) That way you bypass all filters except the on-motor guard filter (which you will renew and verify the O-ring seal on the guard filter assembly is solid.)

If you have success then the problem is downstream - so consider Stu's post. The anti drain back (a check ball under the flush cover at the edge) on the 200 series needs to be clean and spiffy. Same for all the rest of the 200 head passages.
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,330
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
Well, it turns out that the ball valve WAS the problem! So a great big thanks to Stu for reminding us of this possibility! Also, I did replace the lift pump because it was an easy replacement. I think the old one was fine because I could hear that the membrane was functioning properly. I understand that if it begins to fail, fuel will begin to leak into the oil and you might start to see the oil thinning out & increasing the oil level when making routine oil checks. Anyway, I have a spare to give away if anybody ever needs one.

I mentioned this issue to the 3 mechanics that I was in contact with. The only guy who showed appreciation for the knowledge was the cruiser I met in Cape May (he spent time on my boat in AC helping diagnose). He said "thanks! it's good to know". One mechanic ignored my comment and the other one said "well, it would be stuck in open, so that wouldn't make any difference". I was pretty sure this was a foolish statement! :facepalm: As soon as I took the plug off the top of the chambere, it was a very obvious problem. The gunk clogged the ball so that it could barely move!

Here's a picture of the ball and o-ring removed for cleaning. It wasn't that easy to clean the gunk out of the chamber. I used a q-tip & dental pick and flushed the chamber with fuel until I couldn't extract any more material. I didn't remove anything except the cover plug to gain access. I may upgrade the filter, but that will be a winter project.

So far, the engine is running beautifully!
IMG_4553.jpg
 

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Apr 5, 2009
3,192
Catalina '88 C30 tr/bs Oak Harbor, WA
I haven't been able to diagnose at anchor or in the slip while running in neutral. ...
At the beginning of each season, after any significant engine maintenance and anytime I think there is a question about the engine performance, I test run IN GEAR at the dock until the engine is up to full operating temperature. I use a couple of long spring lines so that the pull is distributed to two cleats with the load parallel to the dock. The load is much lower than what is experienced in even a moderate breeze. With the engine at 1900rpm in gear, I can go to the bow and push the boat back off the spring lines.
 
Jun 1, 2025
3
1995 Freedom 40 Sloop Marinett, WI
Absolutely check the hose connections from your Low pressure Riser pump to you RACOR filter. If those are letting in air, you can get exactly the symptoms you describe, and your boat may go dead on you at the worst possible time.

My story.

Just finished sailing from Perth Amboy New Jersey to my home port of Marinette, WI on Lake Michigan.

40 ft Freedom 40, 45HP Yanmar 3JH2-TE.

Boat was on the hard for three years before I boughtit. A lot of neglect issues to deal with. Fuel system was bolluxed. Had to clear a lot of slime and growth out of the system lines and RACOR 500 prefilter. Killed everything in the tank with nasty poison and have been flushing and changing RACOR filters regularly to deal with tank stirring during the route.

Engine performance started out as bad as yours right after I bought it, and then progressed to refusing to start at all. Initial cleaning of the lines and filters and watching the RACOR fixed that. Also changed the internal fuel filter mounted on the engine.

But the boat would still start dogging after a short time running above 2800 RPM. Wasn't much of an issue going up the Hudson and through the Erie Canal, because speeds were moderate and the boat would cruise at 6.5 knots in calm water. Not much current on the Erie, and the Hudson has tides you can time to get a boost up or down the river. I assumed there was congestion still somewhere in the system that was starving the engine at higher RPM under load.

Got through Erie, got the mast stepped and headed up the river in lake Erie. Made good progress until late in the second day, with a brisk following wind and 5-6 foot waves, when the engine suddenly stopped.

Normal fixes didn't work. Letting the engine sit for a bit didn't work--zero firing. I heaved-to pointing away from shore and started digging deeper. The RACOR filter was clear and filled. Filter was pretty clean, compared to the first couple I pulled out when clearing the lines. Fuel in the bowl was clean. Pulled fuel through the RACOR through the feed line to the low pressure pump successfully with my hand fuel pump to clear clogs. Worked OK.

Reconnected the low pressure pump and primed the hell out of it. Disconnected the fuel return line to monitor pump effectiveness. Blistered my fingers pressing that damn priming lever. Only got fuel through a couple of times.

In desperation (Did I mention hours of working in the bottom of a boat pitching in what were now up to 8 foot waves will make a guy hella seasick? Barfed more in those three hours than I did in the last decade) I put a couple of sheets of paper towel into a small wiped out fuel funnel, and gingerly poured diesel from my jerrycan into the secondary filter port until it was full and stopped bubbling. Closed everything and started the engine. It started right up. I immediately shut it down, put things in order and hoisted the jib to about 50% and steered into the nearest port, which happened to be a Port of Refuge.

Sailed in, doused the jib and started the engine. It ran and I steered to the fuel dock, where I assumed I would have enough draft. Got to it, got a line out and yelled for help to get the boat under control in the wind that was trying to pull the bow back out. Some folks gave me a hand and I got the boat secured and basically collapsed. The engine had quit again by this time, and would not restart.

The fuel dock was closed for the evening, and the sign said it would reopen at 6:00am. I found a 15amp power plug on the dock and plugged in the boat and turned on the AC battery charger. Then I went to a marina restaurant to get something to eat, along with a beer, which seemed mighty important at the time. I ended up only eating half my food because my stomach let me know it had been through enough for that day.

I got up at 4:00am (old man--I usually need a bathroom break about 6 hours after going to sleep) and unplugged shore power. With the winds calmed down, it was pretty easy to move the boat back one line at a time until I was clear of the fueling part of the dock and wouldn't cause any problems for customers. Then I went back to sleep until about 9am.

Got up and explained the situation to the attendant. She already had most of the story from a guy who saw my boat out on the lake and called the Coast Guard to say someone was in trouble. Told me not to worry about it, and my boat was fine where it was. I started trying to figure out the problem, and continued to be stumped. Went for a walk to get some parts and restock the boat cooler. Began to think about getting the boat pulled up on the hard for winter. My family was going to be joining me starting at Cleveland, and I didn't want to risk them going through what I had just experienced.

Decided to try and find a YouTube video that might help, but it was hard to get a description put together that the YouTube AI could make heads or tails of. Finally watched one with an english guy who build custom diesels for rich customers. Sat through a lot of marketing drivel until he finally got to the point. Mentioned that lots of people bring in their low pressure pumps to him saying they need to be repaired.

But the vast majority, according to this guy, are just fine. They are just sucking a little air at the connections between them and the fuel tank. He also mentioned that the priming lever would feel "squiddgy" if there was air in the line.

Bingo! My hose connections seemed good, but were a little bit chewed up on the RACOR side. There was plenty of slack in the line, so I was able to cut off material at both ends to get good line. The clamp on the RACOR side was corroded on the back were I couldn't see it, and wasn't very tight. I reconnected both ends with new double clamps and primed the engine. The priming felt better. When fuel started coming out of the return line, I buttoned everything up and started the engine.

Started right up. Gave it 2000 RPM to run the alternator to give a strong charge and left it run for a couple hours. No problems. Next day I packed up and left after paying for two days docking, and gave it a good runthrough--at 3000+ RPM while I was near the harbor to see if the old starvation problem would come back.

NOPE. It ran like a charm and continued to do so for the next 600 miles back to Marinette.

Check those connections between the RACOR and the low pressure pump. If there is air leaking in before the RACOR, your filter will be half empty when your engine quits and you'll know to look for the lead between the RACOR and the fuel tank (which is usually a PITA). But there is a good chance you will find it between the RACOR and the Low Pressure pump, and solve a whole host of worries.
 

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Jun 8, 2004
1,074
C&C Frigate 36 St. Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia
Well, it turns out that the ball valve WAS the problem! [...] Here's a picture of the ball and o-ring removed for cleaning. It wasn't that easy to clean the gunk out of the chamber. I used a q-tip & dental pick and flushed the chamber with fuel until I couldn't extract any more material. I didn't remove anything except the cover plug to gain access. I may upgrade the filter, but that will be a winter project.
That kind of black crud in the filter indicates it's time to empty and clean the tank. Or the problem will come back when it is most inconvenient.
 
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Jun 1, 2025
3
1995 Freedom 40 Sloop Marinett, WI
Well, it turns out that the ball valve WAS the problem! So a great big thanks to Stu for reminding us of this possibility! Also, I did replace the lift pump because it was an easy replacement. I think the old one was fine because I could hear that the membrane was functioning properly. I understand that if it begins to fail, fuel will begin to leak into the oil and you might start to see the oil thinning out & increasing the oil level when making routine oil checks. Anyway, I have a spare to give away if anybody ever needs one.

I mentioned this issue to the 3 mechanics that I was in contact with. The only guy who showed appreciation for the knowledge was the cruiser I met in Cape May (he spent time on my boat in AC helping diagnose). He said "thanks! it's good to know". One mechanic ignored my comment and the other one said "well, it would be stuck in open, so that wouldn't make any difference". I was pretty sure this was a foolish statement! :facepalm: As soon as I took the plug off the top of the chambere, it was a very obvious problem. The gunk clogged the ball so that it could barely move!

Here's a picture of the ball and o-ring removed for cleaning. It wasn't that easy to clean the gunk out of the chamber. I used a q-tip & dental pick and flushed the chamber with fuel until I couldn't extract any more material. I didn't remove anything except the cover plug to gain access. I may upgrade the filter, but that will be a winter project.

So far, the engine is running beautifully!View attachment 234209
Does your return fuel line go back to the RACOR 200? On my boat, the return line goes all the way back to the tank. Seems dumb to me--a long fuel line is just more chances for damage.

I've been wondering about capping it at the tank, and putting in a Tee-connector in the inlet hose to the RACOR.Since the return fuel has already been through both the RACOR and the engine fuel filter already, seems like keeping that filtered fuel in circulation with the filters is better than dumping it back in the tank to possible pick up more tank wash (or leak on the long trip back).

Am I missing something here? Is there any good reason to send the excess fuel provided by the lift pump all the way back to the tank? I'm not aware of any valve system that would cause this to possibly build up pressure in the fuel line.

I'd love to get some feedback before I start messing with the design of my fuel system, despite how reasonable it seems to me at the time.
 

Blitz

.
Jul 10, 2007
713
Seidelmann 34 Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Check those connections between the RACOR and the low pressure pump. If there is air leaking in before the RACOR, your filter will be half empty when your engine quits and you'll know to look for the lead between the RACOR and the fuel tank (which is usually a PITA). But there is a good chance you will find it between the RACOR and the Low Pressure pump, and solve a whole host of worries.
Great advice. Start simple!