The galley foot pump in our 1984 Newport 30 MkIII appears to have been installed before the top and bottom silverware drawer teak faceplate was installed onto the fiberglass bulkhead below the sink. The pump sits inside below the bottom shelf and the center horizontal 1x1 piece that separates the upper and lower drawers is in the way of doing anything. It appears the only way to remove and replace the foot pump is to cut that horizontal wood piece, do the installation then glue that piece back. There is no way to access it from the back (unless you tear out the shelf box back piece) or side (unless you cut out some of the fiberglass bulkhead corner at the bottom companion way step) or top (if you went to all the trouble to remove the sink, you wouldn't be able to reach the pump unless someone dangled you upside down!). Has anyone with the same situation replaced their pump yet? Is this how you did it?
Replacing Whale foot pump in awkward location
- Thread starter knotimpossible
- Start date
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,879
Oh, the fun of resolving issues on a mature boat. Many times, either the builder or a previous owner installed something that befuddles the current owner. You may need to rearrange the cabinet. Or replace the seawater pump with one that does not use the foot pedal.
For example.
Johnson PumpsPump / Faucet ComboSKU: 371855 | Item ID: JOP 61123$124.12In Stock
FynsprayFynspray WS-62C Galley Lever Water Pump - Chromed BrassSKU: 06360 | Item ID: FYN WS-62C$625.47In Stock
WhaleV Pump - Hand Operated Galley PumpSKU: 190375 | Item ID: WHA GP0650$2,557.75Special Order Only
For example.
Johnson PumpsPump / Faucet ComboSKU: 371855 | Item ID: JOP 61123$124.12In Stock
FynsprayFynspray WS-62C Galley Lever Water Pump - Chromed BrassSKU: 06360 | Item ID: FYN WS-62C$625.47In Stock
WhaleV Pump - Hand Operated Galley PumpSKU: 190375 | Item ID: WHA GP0650$2,557.75Special Order Only
The drawer guide may be screwed in place from the back side, try looking for screws there and removing them to remove the guide. Be gentle so as to not damage the screw holes.
The pump itself may be mounted to a plate, could be wood or aluminum which is then screwed to something glued to the hull, if so, remove the plate with the pump still mounted.
A few clear photos of the installation would be helpful.
The pump itself may be mounted to a plate, could be wood or aluminum which is then screwed to something glued to the hull, if so, remove the plate with the pump still mounted.
A few clear photos of the installation would be helpful.
Tomorrow I will see if I can feel some screws on the inside of the faceplate and can remove them. That would help tremendously. I didn't think of that, which is why this forum is so helpful.
No screws in the back. Here are the photos. The oven is to the right, the companionway steps are to the left. There is no access from the back because of a gazillion hoses and the drawer box back. I am hoping that the whale pump is smaller than the size of the individual drawer opening. But, if we have to remove the middle piece, we will. I can't figure out anything else. It's a pain in the butt to get your arm in there to use a screw driver to loosen the pump.
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From my view of photos, the drawers' wood faceplate clearly has wooden plugs for screws underneath/behind. Drill out plug and see if screw exists.
I have removed the stairs many times to work on the engine and I did hope to find an access, but alas, no. The fiberglass wall turns a corner there and blocks access to the pump.
We did wonder if we could do that. We have replacement wooden plugs. However, we are thinking we should cut the center piece and then reattach with a brass plate and screws (instead of glue), so that the next time the pump needs replacing (or any of the plumbing hoses need fixing) we just have to unscrew a couple screws instead of all that drilling. Or maybe your idea is better....
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jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,879
You can usually just put a drywall screw into the center of the plug and turn it. The screw goes into the plug, often fracturing it or pulling it out of the hole. There is no need to drill and expand the hole. Generally, the plugs are friction-fitted with a bit of varnish on the top.
Note to self: When reattaching the frame, use screws that fit in the existing holes. Use the proper-sized plug and be sure the plug grain is aligned with the grain of the frame.
Not sure if it would be helpful in this application but you might be able to put an access port/panel in this wall
Well, turns out we couldn't drill out the plugs without removing the oven, so we chose the option of cutting the center piece and then replacing it with brass braces and screws to make that area more accessible in the future. (The sink is above the drawers.) The right hand brace has been straightened since the photo. The winds were near gale force when we did this and the boat was rocking enough to make us dizzy! The braces don't interfere with the drawers and it doesn't look quite as classy as all wood, but not bad. And the pump works perfectly. Thanks to everyone for your advice. (I thought I also took a photo of the drawers in place, but guess I didn't. )
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This would have been the best method, aesthetically, but very time consuming because of the darn side of the oven sticking out about 1.5" too far. We decided it was more practical to be able to remove that center piece quickly in case of any future urgent plumbing problems originating in that area so the brass plates were our choice. There are many 41-year old hoses in that area and even some electrical lines.