Pulling prop shaft off coupling procedures?

[JPS27]

I'd like to change out my stuffing box hose. My fairly new-to-me Pearson 36-2 has a new engine. The stuffing box looks original but in good shape. Shaft and coupling look new, but the stuffing box hose and clamps look old. Hose is definitely contorted. My question is, since I only need to get shaft off far enough to get hose off, can I just undue the set screws and carefully work the shaft back off the coupling, without taking the shaft coupling off the transmission? If so, what's the best way without damaging anything? What should I be aware of? The set screws came out easy, but i haven't done anything else as I've not done this before on this boat.

Other info: Boat is on the hard. Stuffing box is undone and I got the old packing out. I'm doing a good deal of unexpected fiberglass work, so i figured I'd work on this project too. Thanks.
jay

 

[JoeWhite]

If your engine has not been installed yet, I would remove the propeller and pull out the shaft onto the boat. Also replace the cutlass bearing.
If your engine has been installed, place a long 7/8" socket between the transmission coupling and shaft coupling at the end of the shaft and using new extra long screws pull them together and the shaft should slide out with some luck. You may apply low amount of heat with a heat gun on the shaft coupling to expand it and hopefully release the shaft. Do not apply too much force on these bolts as the transmission coupling may bend.

 

[chuckwayne]

If your engine has not been installed yet, I would remove the propeller and pull out the shaft onto the boat. Also replace the cutlass bearing.
If your engine has been installed, place a long 7/8" socket between the transmission coupling and shaft coupling at the end of the shaft and using new extra long screws pull them together and the shaft should slide out with some luck. You may apply low amount of heat with a heat gun on the shaft coupling to expand it and hopefully release the shaft. Do not apply too much force on these bolts as the transmission coupling may bend.

most shafts have splines and the setscrew, so joewhite's post should work. However, I don't know how the Erikson is set up - Some boats, notably Hunters like ours, in addition to the splines and setscrew have the end of the shaft threaded and there's a big nut on the inside of the shaft coupling holding it together (belt and suspenders?). If the shaft doesn't come out of the coupler, you may want to undo the coupling from the engine and check

 

[jssailem]

The “stuffing box hose” is known as the ‘Shaft Log hose’.

On my boat removal of the shaft from the coupling was a fool’s errand. The shaft had been milled and the coupling pressed on “fit & faced”. The replacement was treated the same. Complicated by the fact that the transmission is a V- Drive. Fortunately the engine and transmission were out of the boat.

Use a good penetrating oil and pray the coupler comes off the shaft. You’ll have to install the shaft log-hose over the shaft if not removed.

 

[dlochner]

Take the coupling off the transmission and then get one of these tools. Makes getting the flange off very easy. If you don't have a split coupling, spring for one, they make installing and removing the coupling much easier. After putting everything back together, spray the coupling with CRC Anticorrosion Spray.

Marine Coupler Flange Puller Removal Tool

Easily remove marine shaft couplings from the shaft using the 5" Coupler Flange Removal Tool - Marine Shaft Transmission Coupler Removal Tool by Buck Algonquin (50MCP00500) from The Prop Shop.

propshopinc.com

7-1/4" Flange Split Shaft Coupler 2" Bore - Buck Algonquin - 5/8" - 3/4" Bolts (50725B2000U)

50725B2000 7-1/4'' Buck Algonquin split shaft coupler with 5/8'' bolts for ZF and Twin Disc marine transmissions. Available in 2'' and crosses over to Walter 725.

propshopinc.com

 

[Tally Ho]

If the shaft and coupling are newer, and not fused together, then yes, try to separate them. You might get lucky.

I replaced my shaft, coupling, shaft log hose one year. Then decided to replace the stuffing box with a Volvo dripless seal (a very nice upgrade by the way…something to consider). In order to I stall it, I had to separate the shaft and coupling, slide the shaft back, get the stuffing box and hose off, and then get the new Volvo seal in place.
Because the shaft and coupling were new (and I put some Lanocote on the parts when I put them together), they separated easily. But I did remove the coupling from the tranny for some reason.

If the shaft won’t easily pull out of the coupling, then you will have to unbolt it from the transmission and do something like this…

Greg

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Makes getting the flange off very easy.

"Very easy" which means comparatively easy as opposed to using a sledge hammer inside of a hat box.

I've seen several means of applying a mighty force equal to the "right hand of God" in order to remove the flange off the prop shaft but how do you apply a similar force in the opposite direction to get the flange back on to the prop shaft ? ? ? There's no way to grip the shaft to apply the force to the flange.

 

[JoeWhite]

To install the shaft back onto the flange, place a 2X4 wood block between the transmission coupling and the shaft coupling and have someone from outside using a wooden mallet with propeller removed, to gently pound the shaft in. Apply lanacoat to the coupling end of the shaft to make the process easier.

 

[dlochner]

"Very easy" which means comparatively easy as opposed to using a sledge hammer inside of a hat box.

I've seen several means of applying a mighty force equal to the "right hand of God" in order to remove the flange off the prop shaft but how do you apply a similar force in the opposite direction to get the flange back on to the prop shaft ? ? ? There's no way to grip the shaft to apply the force to the flange.

This is why you replace the coupling with a split flange, it is not necessary to pound on the shaft, coupling, and transmission ever so gently. Pounding on the transmission is seldom a good idea.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

To install the shaft back onto the flange, place a 2X4 wood block between the transmission coupling and the shaft coupling and have someone from outside using a wooden mallet with propeller removed, to gently pound the shaft in.

As long as "gently" isn't a relative term like "sledge hammer force." But I have to admit, that's the only way I could ever see it working. However, as shown below by @dlochner :

This is why you replace the coupling with a split flange,

.................. this is the reason I could never see using the Xmission shaft as a backup. I agree, that the split coupling would be the way to go to avoid turning the Xmission into a pile of scrap metal.

But having said that, how was it done BEFORE the split coupling came along ?

And just to add one further fly in the ointment, what is the shaft alignment like after removing and replacing the split coupling. Has anyone ever checked it and compared it to the previous alignment ?

 

[Rich Stidger]

I have read (various postings on this site) that after removing the prop shaft flange and then replacing the flange, it is necessary to fit and face the propeller shaft and flange in order to be able to align the engine properly.
I believe that the fit and facing of the shaft and flange can only be accomplished on a lathe at a machine shop, and once machined, the flange cannot be removed from the shaft without disturbing the fit. So the following question arises-
How do you replace the shaft and flange after machining without removing the engine?

 

[Tally Ho]

"Very easy" which means comparatively easy as opposed to using a sledge hammer inside of a hat box.

I've seen several means of applying a mighty force equal to the "right hand of God" in order to remove the flange off the prop shaft but how do you apply a similar force in the opposite direction to get the flange back on to the prop shaft ? ? ? There's no way to grip the shaft to apply the force to the flange.

Ralph, I used a metal plate with bolt holes to match the flange mounting holes, the put a socket on the end of the shaft between the output flange and the “plate”. Tighten bolts between the 2 flanges to squeeze them together, and the socket pushes the shaft out of the coupling.

Watch my video on Coupling Removal above and you will see the force of God’s right hand in action

It was a bear to press the old one out for sure, and in the end, I scrapped the shaft…so I could have just cut it…but at the time, I was hoping to salvage the shaft and coupling.

For sure, if I were to replace the coupling again, I would use a split coupling.

Greg

 

[Tally Ho]

I have read (various postings on this site) that after removing the prop shaft flange and then replacing the flange, it is necessary to fit and face the propeller shaft and flange in order to be able to align the engine properly.
I believe that the fit and facing of the shaft and flange can only be accomplished on a lathe at a machine shop, and once machined, the flange cannot be removed from the shaft without disturbing the fit. So the following question arises-
How do you replace the shaft and flange after machining without removing the engine?

I don’t know that the shaft cannot be removed…just that is machined to be a tight fit (a light press fit) between the coupling and the shaft.

I bought a new shaft and coupling from my local boat yard. They did the fit and face, but I am pretty sure they delivered the shaft and coupling separately.

Greg

 

[BigEasy]

Recently removed the coupling to replace my Volvo shaft seal that was 16 years old. Used the Buck Algonquin puller to separate the coupling from the shaft; worked very well & highly recommend it to avoid any distortion to transmission output flange / coupling. I marked the shaft & coupling as well as output coupling on transmission to ensure that everything went back together properly. The shaft had a key / key way as well as a center bolt to attach the coupling to the shaft. Upon reassembly, everything fit back to pre-disassembly markings. No problem with alignment checks & no vibrations evident on engine run. With a new shaft & coupling, best to have a machine shop fit & face components. Would have to lift engine to slide new shaft & coupling under engine to avoid dis-assembly of fitted components.

 

[NYSail]

My last boat was a 36-3. When i got her the coupling was rusted solid and I had to cut it off. In your case with new engine this hopefully is not the case. Separate coupling, then remove the shaft from its half. As was said, the Volvo seal is fabulous…. Have on my new boat and wish i would have known about it for my 36-2. I did replace the traditional stuffing box with new….. When putting the coupling back together coat with an anti corrosive. Makes life easy for the future. Good luck

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

With a new shaft & coupling, best to have a machine shop fit & face components. Would have to lift engine to slide new shaft & coupling under engine to avoid dis-assembly of fitted components.

How do you replace the shaft and flange after machining without removing the engine?

Never been anywhere close to removing the shaft log hose (yet) for replacement but when I do, I will do exactly as quandaried in the above two comments. I can see the coupling flange way out in left field after it's been muscled off and the same thing for the split coupling. Let the machine shop ensure it's true before you start yelling and swearing when you start the alignment the two shafts and pull everything apart again. Slide the whole shaft and flange in as one piece.