I've added a couple of more battery switches. After reading some Marine Sail articles it appears that opening the excite line going to the alternator probably won't kill the output, so I'm still looking for a way to do that in the scenario where the start battery has been isolated and the alternator output is not connected to anything. I'm pretty sure that could harm the alternator with the engine running.
Tartan 33R Wiring Diagram
- Thread starter Schwarz633
- Start date
There's a device for that. Balmar makes an Alternator Protection Device for exactly the situation you describe, when the alternator load is suddenly cut off. Its early, I'll look at the drawing when I'm more awake.
Alternator Protection Modules - Balmar
Alternators can be subjected to voltage spikes caused by lithium battery shutdowns, intermittent connections and other over-voltage events. Balmar has introduced a robust Alternator Protection Module which helps protect the alternator’s diodes and internal regulator against spikes (clamping up...
balmar.net
The drawing.
First much easier to read without the DC-.
What are the dashed red lines in the attached image?
I think you have made the switching too complicated. By my calculation there are 36 different combinations in the switching, (3 x 3 x2 x 2). If you switch to 1 DCP and 2 simple on/off switches were will only be 12 possible combinations and they are easier to understand. Each battery is either on or off and connected to their respective systems (start or house) or they are paralleled.
For engine start system, if the "Engine Master" switch is located near the start button the buzzer should not be much of an issue. If I recall correctly you intend to put the master switch below decks, if so this will require a trip below decks every time the engine is started or stopped. In an urgent situation when it is necessary to start the engine the extra time and effort could exacerbate the situation. Hiding a master switch below decks would be good for security, meaning hard to start the engine if it is being stolen. Placing a secondary switch, doesn't have to be keyed, near the start button, would eliminate the inconvenience and make the system safer. Thus, have one master somewhere out of sight and mind and a second easily accessible switch in series.
First much easier to read without the DC-.
What are the dashed red lines in the attached image?
I think you have made the switching too complicated. By my calculation there are 36 different combinations in the switching, (3 x 3 x2 x 2). If you switch to 1 DCP and 2 simple on/off switches were will only be 12 possible combinations and they are easier to understand. Each battery is either on or off and connected to their respective systems (start or house) or they are paralleled.
For engine start system, if the "Engine Master" switch is located near the start button the buzzer should not be much of an issue. If I recall correctly you intend to put the master switch below decks, if so this will require a trip below decks every time the engine is started or stopped. In an urgent situation when it is necessary to start the engine the extra time and effort could exacerbate the situation. Hiding a master switch below decks would be good for security, meaning hard to start the engine if it is being stolen. Placing a secondary switch, doesn't have to be keyed, near the start button, would eliminate the inconvenience and make the system safer. Thus, have one master somewhere out of sight and mind and a second easily accessible switch in series.