The -100 is probably PG also, just more concentrated, like this stuff - Engine & Water System Antifreeze -100°F, 1 Gal | West Marine-100 is typically ethylene glycol - I don't like the toxicity compared to propylene glycol.
The -100 is probably PG also, just more concentrated, like this stuff - Engine & Water System Antifreeze -100°F, 1 Gal | West Marine-100 is typically ethylene glycol - I don't like the toxicity compared to propylene glycol.
Why not just use air compressor to blow all the water out of it instead of using antifreeze?That might depend on the shape of the tank. I don’t have a bypass so I just let my water heater fill with AF. I use an air compressor to blow that out, and in the spring I use your commissioning bleach solution to purge everything. By the time I get the bleach smell out there’s no AF smell or taste left.
If I blow the tank dry first I don’t have a way to keep AF from running into the tank once I turn the pump on. That could be solved with a valve on the tank intake or a bypass loop, but since getting the AF out of the tank was never a big problem for me I just never bothered looking for the right adapters for my French designed metric plumbed tank and hoses. As AF gets more expensive it might become worthwhile. I’m certainly not suggesting my way is better than bypassing, just saying that for me getting the AF out is not a big deal.Why not just use air compressor to blow all the water out of it instead of using antifreeze?
And fwiw, use the air compressor to blow all the water out of your fresh water plumbing? Because that would require disconnecting some the piping, replacing 'em with quick release fittings will make that a whole lot easier next year.
--Peggie
Keep in mind the fact that a trivial amount of water left will have enough room to expand when it freezes so as to not cause any damage. Only in confined spaces can it be problematicIf I blow the tank dry first I don’t have a way to keep AF from running into the tank once I turn the pump on. That could be solved with a valve on the tank intake or a bypass loop, but since getting the AF out of the tank was never a big problem for me I just never bothered looking for the right adapters for my French designed metric plumbed tank and hoses. As AF gets more expensive it might become worthwhile. I’m certainly not suggesting my way is better than bypassing, just saying that for me getting the AF out is not a big deal.
I don’t trust that if I blow compressed air through all the hoses there won’t still be water sitting in a low spot. I’ve got two sinks, a freshwater fed head and a cockpit shower so I’m more comfortable knowing I’ve run AF through all of it.
We do the bleach “shock” treatment in the Spring prior to refilling the tank also. It really works keeping the water fresh and eliminating the rotten egg smell in the hot water.That might depend on the shape of the tank. I don’t have a bypass so I just let my water heater fill with AF. I use an air compressor to blow that out, and in the spring I use your commissioning bleach solution to purge everything. By the time I get the bleach smell out there’s no AF smell or taste left.
One note on that - The -50 rating is the temperature where the AF freezes solid enough to burst metal. It may expand enough to burst plastic at a (maybe significantly) higher temperature. Citation - Engine Winter Freeze Protection - Marine How ToWhile I don't know when it actually gets solid, it is below the -50. Damage only occurs when the liquid becomes completely solid and further expansion then begins to break things.
That's good to know - I was under the impression that the freeze temperature was when the antifreeze began freezing - which gives a slushy range making the point of turning to solid a lower temperature - I can't find where I'd heard that so I'm going with you on this. For sure, when winterizing, make sure you get correct dilution anti-freeze in the system. Areas of inadequate dilution can break things.One note on that - The -50 rating is the temperature where the AF freezes solid enough to burst metal. It may expand enough to burst plastic at a (maybe significantly) higher temperature. Citation - Engine Winter Freeze Protection - Marine How To
those are great, but I'd really like to research the "slushy" zone.... But with the prices I saw on freezers with that capability - not going to happen unless I can find a freezer within my price range. Or I might look around and see if someone I know has a freezer with that capability and is willing to let me use it for ... pennies.... LOLA refractometer is a pretty good way to check freeze point. I got one for like $20. It’s a good way to get some confidence that you don’t still have over diluted contents in the plumbing.
...You prevent that by disconnecting connections in the fresh water plumbing where that's likely to be a problem. You'd replace those connections with quick connect fittings as part of your spring recommissioning.I don’t trust that if I blow compressed air through all the hoses there won’t still be water sitting in a low spot. I’ve got two sinks, a freshwater fed head and a cockpit shower...
Yes, the RV stuff is fine for plumbing, but always use Starbrite or other AF rated for engine use or you'll cause rust in the engine. I run a good 4 gals through mine ( 17 yrs. Georgian Bay ) may be a little overkill, but I have seen the results ( not mine ) of not getting enough AF into the engine and leaving a mix of water and AF. AF is cheap compared to a new engine.Hi Greg , do you use the pink plumbing A/F for the fresh water cooling portion of your engine? I see R/v pink plumbing for sale vs. the starbrite -50/-100 on sale at the marina store? I was planning the r;v pink for plumbing and the starbrite for the engine. Jabsco toilet manual says drain the toilet with the drain plug at base after pumping dry and thats it. H290 manual just says place A/f in bowl and pump into tank. Makes more sense to disconnect pick up line at thru hull and place in A/f jug as you say and pump thru system....conflicting info and want to be careful.
thanks again
Colin
Don is so right. Confined spaces are the issue.Keep in mind the fact that a trivial amount of water left will have enough room to expand when it freezes so as to not cause any damage. Only in confined spaces can it be problematic