Any reason that I should not replace the blocks that are attached to the toe rail with stand up blocks? The blocks are used for the self tacking jib.
Standup blocks
- Thread starter FlimFlamII
- Start date
If you use stand up block with a base you will have to drill holes in the deck, which can lead to wet coring. You may be able to get springs and use the fittings you have and avoid the holes and the extra expense.
The problem with the current setup is there is the block is attached to the toe rail with a shackle and it’s tearing up the toe rail. Been that way since the bait was built in 1980. It might be the previous owner set it up that way. Can’t believe the manufacturer designed it that way
I'd think there must be a better way to attach a block to a toe rail. 1st thought is to file smooth the toe rail and use a dyneema soft shackle. You may need some sort of chafe protection under the soft shackle and you'll to watch for wear.
Maybe just use a bigger shackle and add chafe protection to the toe rail to protect it.
I agree with Dave, try to avoid drilling more holes in your deck, especially when you have that convenient toe rail right there.
Maybe just use a bigger shackle and add chafe protection to the toe rail to protect it.
I agree with Dave, try to avoid drilling more holes in your deck, especially when you have that convenient toe rail right there.
Soft shackle is an excellent idea! Easy to make and much less expensive than good standup shackles.
You just need to make sure they don't get excessive chafe from the sharp edges on the toe rail.
You could also turn the shackle around so the pin goes through the block, that should cause less damage to the toe rail.
You wouldn't need stand up blocks, just a sturdy padeye to attach the block to.
Still, soft shackle. Easy, cheap.
Ward H had a good suggestion.
Personally, I had a self tacking jib on my last boat and I NEVER used it. Unlike a conventional lead set-up, better yet a 3D lead system, you have very little control over leach tension, particularly ...
Self-tackers can be tuned for windward and a very close reach, but they are basically useless off the wind or reefed. A 3D systems alows you to hold the clew pretty much anywhere.
Personally, I had a self tacking jib on my last boat and I NEVER used it. Unlike a conventional lead set-up, better yet a 3D lead system, you have very little control over leach tension, particularly ...
- Reaching
- If the sail is roller-reefed
Self-tackers can be tuned for windward and a very close reach, but they are basically useless off the wind or reefed. A 3D systems alows you to hold the clew pretty much anywhere.
The more I think of it the more I like eliminating the self tacking hardware for all the reasons mentioned. My only concern is the added pressure the blocks will put on the toe rail, the self tacking rail spreads the load out. If I eliminate the self tacking system I eliminate 8 through holes which would be offset by 8 holes for two deck mounted blocks. Thoughts?
The toe rail is one of the strongest parts of the boat. There is a bolt holding it down every 6 or 8". I wouldn't worry at all about stressing the toe rail with a gennoa block. Do pay attention to wear on the rail where the block rides. If the metal erodes it does become weaker.
Rather than just adding stand up blocks, consider a way to adjust the clew along the lines of what @thinwater suggested. Doing so will yield better sailing performance.
Rather than just adding stand up blocks, consider a way to adjust the clew along the lines of what @thinwater suggested. Doing so will yield better sailing performance.