Electronics O'day 22

[drgbanks]

There are wires running everywhere on this O'DAY 22. I'm probably going to have to run new wires for everything. Tranducer, gps, interior lighting. Forward and aft safety lighting. Plus add a bilge pump. Is there a schematic for the wiring available? Any advice?

 

[dlochner]

There are wires running everywhere on this O'DAY 22. I'm probably going to have to run new wires for everything. Tranducer, gps, interior lighting. Forward and aft safety lighting. Plus add a bilge pump. Is there a schematic for the wiring available? Any advice?

Make a list of the electrical devices you want to install. From that list you can draw your own schematic. That's the easy part. The more challenging part is figuring out how to physically run the wires and where to place the breaker panel and the various devices.

If you are going to add instruments, you will have 2 separate but connected networks, an NMEA 2000 data network and a 12v DC network. The NMEA 2000 network will need to be powered in order for the instrument displays and the sensors.

Spend some time learning about DC wiring before diving into actually doing the wiring. And pay particular attention to power consumption, battery type and size, and charging. It is easy to design a cool system only to have it drain your battery in no time. And don't rely on the outboard to provide much if any electrical power. The rectifier on an OB has a very low output that is good for navigation lights and that's about it.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

It should be wired for interior and nav lights. I'm guessing the rest of the wiring was added by a previous owner. Use the lighting wiring if it's in good shape as it's embedded in the fiberglass. Transducer wiring will come with a new transducer

 

[jssailem]

Do not rush in and start changing things. Take your time to examine the boat's structure and layout. Look at how you are using the boat, paying attention to how any offending wiring fits or does not fit your needs. Plan any changes, but before tearing things out, test to see if the planned change really will improve the situation.

Sitting in my boat just looking at the problem area, given a little time, I can begin to understand why it is there. Only then can I evaluate the current structure's positives or negatives. This step of patience often helps me channel my improvements for the best results.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

If there's no power at your dock, then I'd suggest looking into a small solar panel. Figuring out your power requirements as @dlochner mentioned, will help you plan, save money and create a better system

 

[Clutch Cargo]

I know how easy it is to be intimidated by all the wires. I am at times when doing things on my boat. Take it one piece at a time. FWIW, adding on to previous advice:

1. Invest in a good "fox and hound" tone generator and probe kit. This makes tracing and identifying wires much easier.
2. Once identified and labeled, do NOT remove the ones slated for replacement until you are ready as they are excellent snakes.
3. Per previous poster, draw out a schematic (color coded) before you start.
4. Invest in a professional grade crimping tool (I have a Klein), strippers, heat gun, dielectric grease and a variety pack of terminal fittings. I prefer to pay extra for the ones set up with heat shrink, but you can go the regular route and purchase heat shrink tube separately.
5. Watch lots of videos on YT on how to do boat wiring. very helpful IMHO.
6. I have a copy of "The 12 Volt Bible". Very good reference book.
7. Do not be afraid to add extra passage holes to the liner in places where no one will see them.

Hope this helps.

 

[Ward H]

Your list of lights and electronics is very similar to what I had on my O'Day 25. I also had a tiller pilot.
The bilge in my O'Day was very shallow and had the centerboard trunk separating it into two sides. Most bilge pumps were too tall to fit.
With only one thru hull for the sink drain, thru hull and hose were new, the only water entering the bilge would be rain water from leaks.
A bilge pump would require a marine battery charger and shore power system or a solar system to keep up the battery.
I decided the risk of the bilge overflowing was so low that a bilge pump was not warranted. I used a scoop and sponge to keep it dry.

I had one Grp 27 battery for power. It was charged before the boat went into the water in the spring. Once again at mid season and at the end of the season. The outboard provided minimal charging. It had power tilt and electric start.
The battery never discharged enough to worry about getting the motor started or installing an auxiliary charging system. Putting it on a charger at mid season was only for peace of mind.

I agree with those who say forget the old wiring. Run new so you know exactly what you have. Keep it simple and have fun.

 

[drgbanks]

I know how easy it is to be intimidated by all the wires. I am at times when doing things on my boat. Take it one piece at a time. FWIW, adding on to previous advice:

1. Invest in a good "fox and hound" tone generator and probe kit. This makes tracing and identifying wires much easier.
2. Once identified and labeled, do NOT remove the ones slated for replacement until you are ready as they are excellent snakes.
3. Per previous poster, draw out a schematic (color coded) before you start.
4. Invest in a professional grade crimping tool (I have a Klein), strippers, heat gun, dielectric grease and a variety pack of terminal fittings. I prefer to pay extra for the ones set up with heat shrink, but you can go the regular route and purchase heat shrink tube separately.
5. Watch lots of videos on YT on how to do boat wiring. very helpful IMHO.
6. I have a copy of "The 12 Volt Bible". Very good reference book.
7. Do not be afraid to add extra passage holes to the liner in places where no one will see them.

Hope this helps.

Attached are 2 pictures. The fishfinder and transducer. I don't know how it works, but I'm guessing they work together. My question comes down to if I really need it. I'll likely be sailing Lake Perris a year or two before I venture into Newport Bay.

 

[dlochner]

Attached are 2 pictures. The fishfinder and transducer. I don't know how it works, but I'm guessing they work together. My question comes down to if I really need it. I'll likely be sailing Lake Perris a year or two before I venture into Newport Bay.

Depth sounders and fish finders are Sonar based, the transduce sends out a high frequency audio signal and measures the time it takes for the ping to bounce back. The Display takes that information and shows the depth and/or little fish pictures. They work together.

 

[jssailem]

if I really need it.

Only you can answer the question. You will be sailing in a lake. Is it important to know how deep the water is as you sail close to shore?

Many sailors sail in waters that the depth is not an issue for them. They get along fine without either a depth sonar or a fish finder.

The two are similar like a Ford or Chevy car. But they are different like an SUV and a 2 door Coupe.

The depth sonar is designed to report the distance from the boat bottom to the sea/lake floor. Usually the wave length transmitted by the transducer is less than 140 kHz. 50 to 100 kHz can penetrate to depths of 400-600 feet. Fish finders are geared to shallow depths and use higher frequency waves above 160kHZ. Often in the 200kHz range. This higher frequency can return smaller detailed imagery to be interpreted and displayed on the screen as fish above a solid sea/lake floor.

 

[drgbanks]

Since it was in the boat when I bought it, I may as well use it. I have to rewire the whole boat anyway.