Navigation Instruments Power Outage

[Tucson Sailor]

It's monsoon season in the Arizona desert. We had a nasty storm with thunder, lightning and rain. I don't see evidence my boat was hit but my slip neighbor reported a strike nearby. I turn off the DC Perko switch and all the AC breakers except the charger when I leave the boat for the week.

I returned to find all of the AC systems work fine except my new-in-March TV would not power up. I'm making a warranty claim. None of the AC panel side "push to set" button breakers were popped. The marine stereo is wired separately, has power with a good fuse to it but would not turn on. It too is old and will be replaced.

The DC system is in an odd state. We have a standard Cat 30 electrical panel from 1996. None of the standard "push to reset" breakers on the DC panel side were popped. I wonder if they are just old - 1996 - and should have popped?

The Cabin Lights, NavCom and Running Lights are all on one circuit which was not popped. The cabin lights worked except five of ten LED bulbs were out (one each in the three fixtures with two bulbs inside). I replaced the bulbs and all worked fine. The Running Lights do not work; nor does the VHF radio. The ST 4000 Autohelm lights up with an error message stating "SeaTalk Error" and the heading is stuck at 155 degrees. The Raymarine ST60 wind instrument does not light up and the wind arrow does not move. The depth sounder lights up but is frozen as well.

The Deck Light, Steaming Light and Anchor Light are all on one circuit which was not popped. The lights do not work and I ran out of time for checking the systems and forgot to bring home my manuals.

Does anything stand out as a cause for these "partial" failures? Should I replace all of the "push to reset" breakers on the DC panel? Any ideas about the autohelm and wind instruments? I didn't have time to look for reset options. I'll have more details after next weekend. All ideas are welcomed until then including diagnostic recommendations.

This feels like chasing a short in an old car!

Thanks,
Tim Prouty

 

[dlochner]

When lightning strikes there are 2 issues, one is the high voltage electrical discharge that can burn through wires and blow out through hulls. The other is an electro magnetic field that is generated. This latter EMF does in electronics and there may be little evidence of a high voltage discharge like burn marks, scorching, or spider cracks in the hull.

If there was a strike nearby, to a neighboring boat or something onshore, the EMF impulse might have damaged your electronics.

 

[jssailem]

This feels like chasing a short in an old car!

Perhaps because it is just like that. What stands out is there was a lightning strike in your vicinity. The power of that event went somewhere. The easiest paths available to reset the balance. It’s possible some of your gear is suffering from age? Certainly. Was the lighting strike the cause? Inconclusive.
Is there a short cut to resolving the situation? No. One needs to put in the work to identify what is not working, then decide on the best solution. Perhaps it’s replacing a couple of breakers. Maybe the system is fried and you’re in-for a rebuild.
I find it better to diagnose and fix what is needed rather than guess it’s trashed and rip it all out.

 

[Tucson Sailor]

Thanks Stu & Dave,
The affects of an EMP sound likely. I've been reviewing manuals online and Stu is right. I'll just go through the boat one thing at a time. Never had this happen in 35 years of sailing. I guess its just my turn. I'll report back as it unfolds. Maybe I'll end up with some early Christmas presents?
Tim

 

[dlochner]

Thanks Stu & Dave,
The affects of an EMP sound likely. I've been reviewing manuals online and Stu is right. I'll just go through the boat one thing at a time. Never had this happen in 35 years of sailing. I guess its just my turn. I'll report back as it unfolds. Maybe I'll end up with some early Christmas presents?
Tim

You may want to check with your insurance company. It could be a claim which if, it doesn't cover the replacement cost might help defray it.

 

[Stu Jackson]

You may want to check with your psychiatrist, because I never posted anything in this thread.

 

[Davidasailor26]

When you work through the electronics you may want to try disconnecting everything from the SeaTalk network and reconnecting one item at a time. It’s possible that one bad item could be corrupting or disabling the rest.

We had a nearby strike a few years ago and had similar symptoms, though not as many effects to regular DC circuits like lights. Our damage included stereo, VHF, chartplotter, and DC panel / monitor. In our case it was definitely worth working with our insurance. They made the process quite painless and everything got replaced (including the latest model plotter instead of direct replacement with a 5 year old model). Our insurance also covered the cost of a short haul to make sure there were no burn marks underwater.

 

[Tucson Sailor]

My apologies Stu. My brain said Jim and my fingers typed Stu.

Thanks David and Dave,
It occurred to me last night this could be an insured event. The equipment is older although, the wind instrument is actually an i60 version. Still aged but it all worked. I'll contact them tomorrow.

We've used BOAT US for decades with only one claim 20 years ago. They were great to work with then and we'll see if it will be different with Geico.
Tim

 

[jviss]

Should I replace all of the "push to reset" breakers on the DC panel?

No. Circuit breakers are not designed to protect against lightning strikes.

 

[imagine504]

My previous boat was struck while docked, and fried. It did not sink--some boats do. BoatUS totaled it and then gave it back with a clean title and port insurance while I repaired it. It took 3 months nonstop and $35K, and a new survey to get back insurance.

Previous comments are 100% right. There are two sources of damage--direct electrical current, and electromagnetic.
Basically, anything with a circuit board can/will get fried by EMR, which is why offshore sailors will keep a vhf and gps in the microwave. A second autopilot off the network and wrapped in foil might be a good idea.

Current is different. If you have a clear path to water, most goes that way. If all thru hulls are bonded, you might not sink. Some breakers will operate and save things like windlass, electric winches, and bow thruster. The rest, like electronics, good luck. You must have lightning arrestors on vhf since the masthead metal antenna is a direct route to electronics. I have one at the top, the other at bottom. I also have arrestors on AIS, SSB, and Wireless antennae.

I was advised by a NASA ground engineer to include 2-pole grounded breakers on each electronics feed. At $15+ each it starts to get pricey. This is in addition to separate panel breakers, and low-amp fuses in each feed.
By the way, my strike killed six batteries (1 day old). Fortunately, I'd bought Lifeline. With their engineer on the phone, an auto-electrician tested them, and they came back to life--like new.

When docked, I also disconnect shorepower when lightning is close. A nearby strike can get into the ground wire. I could go on and on. I do what I can to minimize damage, and worry each time lightning is near by.

My advice to the original poster: build a simple electric supply circuit and test each instrument, backbone wiring, etc. Put as few components together as possible and test.

 

[Tucson Sailor]

Thanks Jssailem,
I'm working with Geico right now. They seem supportive. We'll see.
Tim

 

[jssailem]

I’m interested in hearing about there service level.