Hey everyone, I have a new to me sailboat with a new engine in 2021. Beta 35. The stuffing box is running a tad hot from the survey sea trial. I don’t see any drips coming out under load. Would someone explain in a simple way how to loosen it up a bit. I understand you need 2 wrenches to adjust both bolts. But before I start messing with it, I’d like to know the best method. Here’s a picture
Stuffing box adjusting
- Thread starter Mattcia123
- Start date
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,140
An exploded image of your stuffing box is shown here.
You would need to slide the box up far enough to get out any packing that is between the Gland and the stuffing box base. A small pick or even a screw is the often used tool to extract the packing.
Looking at the shaft there is a fair bit of rust where it enters the stuffing box. Rust is not good to see. You will have to be the judge. I would try to clean up the rust and look to see if the shaft has been compromised. I would do this out of the water so that if there is a problem I could resolve it while the boat is on the hard. Water rushing in can be unnerving.
You would need to slide the box up far enough to get out any packing that is between the Gland and the stuffing box base. A small pick or even a screw is the often used tool to extract the packing.
Looking at the shaft there is a fair bit of rust where it enters the stuffing box. Rust is not good to see. You will have to be the judge. I would try to clean up the rust and look to see if the shaft has been compromised. I would do this out of the water so that if there is a problem I could resolve it while the boat is on the hard. Water rushing in can be unnerving.
Hi @Mattcia123 ,
I find this most interesting as you may be in possession of a true packing gland on your shaft. It is not an original installation from Hunter Marine but an installation from a previous owner. The rest of the boating crowd is stuck with a piece of useless crap called a spud type packing as mine is shown here :
A few questions for your packing gland :
I have been searching for last 25 years and have been unable to find this stuffing box manufactured in anything less than 1-1/4" dia. Below is an exploded view of your packing gland for a 1-1/4" shaft :
Keep an eye on the gland it for the first sign of dripping after a few hours of running. "If" you should be so lucky that it does leak, snug the gland follower (my edit of your gland) to the point where it has no slack.
If this were a new packing job, you would have no problem in adjusting the packing compression in one or two moves. Seeing as how this gland likely has old packing of an unknown composition, it's going to take a little time and a little fooling around.
Why am I obsessed with this gland ? Given a gland like this, a mirror polish on the shaft and teflon impregnated flax packing :
- it could be packed without damage to the new packing material
- it can be run dry .................... yes, you read that right
- it will run cool
- it could be run without re-packing for upwards of 10 - 15 years.
Anyone want to disagree ? ? ? ? ? I've got the practical experience and theories to prove spud type glands should not even be manufactured.
I've almost been able to accomplish the above using a lousy spud type gland. So far six without re-packing and running dry. It's not easy but it can be done. Given a proper stuffing box as is proudly owned by the OP, and the proper conditions as outlined above, fully guaranteed. How, it's running in salt and or fresh water. Two of the most compatible substances to leak into a stuffing box.
Sure, you can make this gland fail rather quickly, same a spud type gland, by running in heavily silted water, having a rough prop shaft to start with, over-tightening the gland, running on the hard and a few other not too bright practices.
And please do not refer me to any big bull
manufacturers of packing glands. You know who they are and I'm a bit gun shy of being sued. They're smart people and they know how to make a quick and easy buck and they're doing it.
I find this most interesting as you may be in possession of a true packing gland on your shaft. It is not an original installation from Hunter Marine but an installation from a previous owner. The rest of the boating crowd is stuck with a piece of useless crap called a spud type packing as mine is shown here :
A few questions for your packing gland :
I have been searching for last 25 years and have been unable to find this stuffing box manufactured in anything less than 1-1/4" dia. Below is an exploded view of your packing gland for a 1-1/4" shaft :
But, getting back to your original question, take a crescent wrench and fully back off both of the lock nuts and then back off each of the adjustment nuts about 1/2 a rotation. This will "hopefully" allow the packing inside the gland to expand but this is doubtful if the packing is anything more than a couple of years old.
Keep an eye on the gland it for the first sign of dripping after a few hours of running. "If" you should be so lucky that it does leak, snug the gland follower (my edit of your gland) to the point where it has no slack.
If this were a new packing job, you would have no problem in adjusting the packing compression in one or two moves. Seeing as how this gland likely has old packing of an unknown composition, it's going to take a little time and a little fooling around.
Why am I obsessed with this gland ? Given a gland like this, a mirror polish on the shaft and teflon impregnated flax packing :
- it could be packed without damage to the new packing material
- it can be run dry .................... yes, you read that right
- it will run cool
- it could be run without re-packing for upwards of 10 - 15 years.
Anyone want to disagree ? ? ? ? ? I've got the practical experience and theories to prove spud type glands should not even be manufactured.
I've almost been able to accomplish the above using a lousy spud type gland. So far six without re-packing and running dry. It's not easy but it can be done. Given a proper stuffing box as is proudly owned by the OP, and the proper conditions as outlined above, fully guaranteed. How, it's running in salt and or fresh water. Two of the most compatible substances to leak into a stuffing box.
Sure, you can make this gland fail rather quickly, same a spud type gland, by running in heavily silted water, having a rough prop shaft to start with, over-tightening the gland, running on the hard and a few other not too bright practices.
And please do not refer me to any big bull
manufacturers of packing glands. You know who they are and I'm a bit gun shy of being sued. They're smart people and they know how to make a quick and easy buck and they're doing it.
Got to add a BIG caution here. From your posting, I am assuming you are in the water as you talk about a hot box.
DO NOT DO THIS IN THE WATER under any circumstances, as you will be hit with a large flow of water once all the packing is removed. At that point, you may not be able to re-pack the gland due to the water flow. Best bet would be to jam a rag in the gland at that point and head for the hard.
I pack my spud type gland in the water, but there you can wrap the shaft in string and continue to fumble away trying to get the packing into the nut without it being hidden in water.
With your gland, you can not get down to the bottom of the tube to staunch the flow of water.
Thanks, @Ralph Johnstone , very informative.
I have one of those dripless things, and I'm terrified that if the rubber bellows fails the boat will sink. I'd rather have what the OP has.
I have one of those dripless things, and I'm terrified that if the rubber bellows fails the boat will sink. I'd rather have what the OP has.
Hi @Mattcia123 ,
I find this most interesting as you may be in possession of a true packing gland on your shaft. It is not an original installation from Hunter Marine but an installation from a previous owner. The rest of the boating crowd is stuck with a piece of useless crap called a spud type packing as mine is shown here :
View attachment 226464
A few questions for your packing gland :
View attachment 226467
I have been searching for last 25 years and have been unable to find this stuffing box manufactured in anything less than 1-1/4" dia. Below is an exploded view of your packing gland for a 1-1/4" shaft :
View attachment 226466
But, getting back to your original question, take a crescent wrench and fully back off both of the lock nuts and then back off each of the adjustment nuts about 1/2 a rotation. This will "hopefully" allow the packing inside the gland to expand but this is doubtful if the packing is anything more than a couple of years old.
Keep an eye on the gland it for the first sign of dripping after a few hours of running. "If" you should be so lucky that it does leak, snug the gland follower (my edit of your gland) to the point where it has no slack.
If this were a new packing job, you would have no problem in adjusting the packing compression in one or two moves. Seeing as how this gland likely has old packing of an unknown composition, it's going to take a little time and a little fooling around.
Why am I obsessed with this gland ? Given a gland like this, a mirror polish on the shaft and teflon impregnated flax packing :
- it could be packed without damage to the new packing material
- it can be run dry .................... yes, you read that right
- it will run cool
- it could be run without re-packing for upwards of 10 - 15 years.
Anyone want to disagree ? ? ? ? ? I've got the practical experience and theories to prove spud type glands should not even be manufactured.
I've almost been able to accomplish the above using a lousy spud type gland. So far six without re-packing and running dry. It's not easy but it can be done. Given a proper stuffing box as is proudly owned by the OP, and the proper conditions as outlined above, fully guaranteed. How, it's running in salt and or fresh water. Two of the most compatible substances to leak into a stuffing box.
Sure, you can make this gland fail rather quickly, same a spud type gland, by running in heavily silted water, having a rough prop shaft to start with, over-tightening the gland, running on the hard and a few other not too bright practices.
And please do not refer me to any big bull
Okay thank you so much for detailed response. I should add this is a 1987 Moody 376, forgot to add that. The prop shaft diameter is indeed 1 1/4. I’m not sure what you mean by point A and point B, but it goes to where it does in the semi exploded pic you posted. I do plan on doing this in the water as I don’t plan on re-packing, just adjusting to the right temp. Is that safe? Few other questions for you:Hi @Mattcia123 ,
I find this most interesting as you may be in possession of a true packing gland on your shaft. It is not an original installation from Hunter Marine but an installation from a previous owner. The rest of the boating crowd is stuck with a piece of useless crap called a spud type packing as mine is shown here :
View attachment 226464
A few questions for your packing gland :
View attachment 226467
I have been searching for last 25 years and have been unable to find this stuffing box manufactured in anything less than 1-1/4" dia. Below is an exploded view of your packing gland for a 1-1/4" shaft :
View attachment 226466
But, getting back to your original question, take a crescent wrench and fully back off both of the lock nuts and then back off each of the adjustment nuts about 1/2 a rotation. This will "hopefully" allow the packing inside the gland to expand but this is doubtful if the packing is anything more than a couple of years old.
Keep an eye on the gland it for the first sign of dripping after a few hours of running. "If" you should be so lucky that it does leak, snug the gland follower (my edit of your gland) to the point where it has no slack.
If this were a new packing job, you would have no problem in adjusting the packing compression in one or two moves. Seeing as how this gland likely has old packing of an unknown composition, it's going to take a little time and a little fooling around.
Why am I obsessed with this gland ? Given a gland like this, a mirror polish on the shaft and teflon impregnated flax packing :
- it could be packed without damage to the new packing material
- it can be run dry .................... yes, you read that right
- it will run cool
- it could be run without re-packing for upwards of 10 - 15 years.
Anyone want to disagree ? ? ? ? ? I've got the practical experience and theories to prove spud type glands should not even be manufactured.
I've almost been able to accomplish the above using a lousy spud type gland. So far six without re-packing and running dry. It's not easy but it can be done. Given a proper stuffing box as is proudly owned by the OP, and the proper conditions as outlined above, fully guaranteed. How, it's running in salt and or fresh water. Two of the most compatible substances to leak into a stuffing box.
Sure, you can make this gland fail rather quickly, same a spud type gland, by running in heavily silted water, having a rough prop shaft to start with, over-tightening the gland, running on the hard and a few other not too bright practices.
And please do not refer me to any big bull
which nut is the locking nut and which is the adjusting nut?
After adjusting the nuts wouldn’t I just snug up with gland follower to the new location of the nuts immediately? Or wait until I’m satisfied with the drip rate/temp?
should I be basing the adjustment off of drip rate or temperate of the box while running?
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,140
Adjustment is a procedure of releasing nuts, looking for drips, and tightening (adjusting) until the desired drip is 2-3 drips per 3 minutes (to start the procedure). Once you have a setting, tie the boat securely in the slip, start the engine, and put the boat in gear. Monitor the drips and the stuffing box temp as the shaft turns. An infrared temperature meter is a useful tool. Adjust the drips to moderate the temp of the stuffing box. When the shaft is not rotating, you should be able to have no drips.
Adjust until you get a good result, then tighten the locking nuts and check the drips and temperature one last time.
The rust on the shaft and the stuffing box would concern me.
Thank you kindly for the simple instructions. I was gonna clean up the rust and take a better look at it. How would you go about the rust?
Clean the verdigris off the bronze with any metal polish and fine wet/dry emery cloth from a hardware store. Check the cleaner label.
As long as the gland follower is not removed, you're 100% safe. The only reason I suggested going through the back and forth is to ensure that before you are ready to leave the boat over night, make sure the gland is not loose and sloppy as it MAY decide to start leaking more than you anticipated and I don't know how big your bilge pump is.
Once you start slacking off on the gland follower, you'll see exactly what I mean. It's not a big deal if you know what it may decide to do. Not sure ................ just gently snug up the follower nuts when you leave the boat and nothing will happen to the gland.
It's the nuts that push down on the gland follower. They control how hard the follower is being pressed on the packing material.
It's an indication of what is going on in the stuffing box. If you have one or two drops per minute, the gland will probably be running much cooler. A bit warmer than skin temperature.
Please try to calm down and maybe consider some prescription meds to control those Terrors. Actually, medication may not help nearly as much as just reading posts, and start following the manufacturer's instructions for servicing.
Then stop reading internet posts from self proclaimed experts. (Yeah, from me too!)
Seriously, the PSS seal used to seem foreign / new-fangled to older boaters, but previously had and has a long life in industry. It does have some maintenance requirements to adhere to like having your engine aligned properly with no wobbling around when in gear.... but that's also true for the older stuffing box hoses clamped to the frp shaft tube. I have been changing the bellows on our '95 PSS about once a decade. The 'old' bellows always seems pretty much like new when I replace it. Do keep it clean, especially from oil residue, like you would any hose around the engine bay.
Further, on the subject of reinforced rubber products capable of sinking a boat, be sure that all the hoses the go to thruhull fittings are under 20 years old. Lots of owners ignore those completely, and some get a wet surprise as a result.
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My gut tells me that the PO knew of the leaking stuffing box and in an effort to make the sale, overtightened the gland to be able to say it ws a dry boat. If the boat was acquired through a broker, maybe it's time to ask them what they knew about the stuffing box. Some brokers hold funds for 30 days to cover issues such as this. If so, this is the time to get things addressed and properly fixed.
You know, I don't know. It came with the boat when I bought it 7 years ago, and I haven't changed the bellows since. No maintenance records were included.
I have not seen it mentioned yet but the adjustment nuts should be adjusted equally, that is half a turn on one side should also be one half turn on the other. Misalignment of the packing will cause problems in the future. The distance between the after and forward pieces should be equal and measured after any adjustments. Just my experience with this type of stuffing box.
You need to pull that shaft, in my opinion. the corrosion on the shaft seen here needs to be examined. This boat should be pulled out of the water and the whole region of where the shaft goes through this stuffing box should be carefully examined.
dj
dj
When I bought my 1988 O’Day 322, the prop shaft, stuffing box and coupling didn’t look too good…
I removed the shaft to inspect it and decided it needed to be replaced.
A year after I did that work, I decided to also install a Volvo shaft seal….quite happy with the setup.
I do think you need to haul the boat soon and get the shaft and drive train all sorted.
Greg
I removed the shaft to inspect it and decided it needed to be replaced.
A year after I did that work, I decided to also install a Volvo shaft seal….quite happy with the setup.
I do think you need to haul the boat soon and get the shaft and drive train all sorted.
Greg
I think you should staple Greg's statement on your "To Do" list.
The red material @dLj points out may be corrosion products or could be silt deposits from the surrounding water. I really don't think you will find any killers when you go in there but it's one area that COULD come back and bite you some day.
As the boat is new to you, you may want to give it a bottom coat (if required) as well as any other work which will require a haul out.
Yeah I’m going to continue sailing for the rest of the summer and then haul in the fall before heading south and take care of the bottom and this prop shaft and box. Thank you everyone for the replies and useful advice. Love this community