Cockpit table project. Still looking for a part.

[SoSound]

Driven, yet again, by compulsive DIY frugality (aka, too cheap to buy one), I am almost finished with a project to build my own folding pedestal/cockpit table. But I'm still looking for a part to hold the folding leaves in place when the table is not in use. I'm looking for a small stainless steel latch, or hasp, or hook, or ???. I've been looking so long that I have my self stuck in an endless loop of finding the same things over and over again. I would like it to be installed either on the ends of the table where the fold-down hinge is located, or maybe on the under side surface which is visible when the table is folded and stowed.

Here's the table ;



Original and DIY prototype;

 

[jviss]

Here's what Edson uses - the admitted champion of cockpit tables, but also the most expensive! They are really nice and customer oriented, though, so perhaps they will sell these to you if you ask.

 

[twodzusfittings]

Put them underneath the center section of the table in line with the pedestal guard tubes. I have them on mine and they work well.

 

[Will Gilmore]

I'm thinking something like these to catch the two leaves to the center board.
Plastic cabinet latches

Maybe not these exact ones, but a hook shape that is attached to the back edge of the center board and flexes to ride over the edges of the leaves when they are folded in, to catch and hold on their bottom edges. Just a thumb flick to release them. Maybe velcro on the underside of the center board to hold the table in the down position.

-Will

 

[SoSound]

@twodzusfittings (if I've never told you so, I love that name!), I don't have pedestal guard tubes behind the table. When it's stowed, it is secured against the pedestal base and the tube for the drive selector/throttle control. The problem is that the stowed table hangs beyond vertical and the foldout sides of the table swing forward and open. I was OK using the black bungee on the rough prototype, but I'd rather have a better solution for my finished version.

The Edson parts that @jviss posted would work, but I would like something a little more sophisticated than two flat hooks and four wood screws for my $12 (they do sell these in the parts area of their web site).

So far, this is about the most workable thing that I've found. I would attach one half to each of the foldouts and secure them to each other.

 

[SoSound]

I like that idea, @Will Gilmore, the clip more than the velcro. But I wouldn't rule out a clever use of velcro or shock cord.

 

[RobG]

SoSound, I'm doing the same project. Curious. Did you use a single 1.5" router bit for the hinges? I have the same hinges for my project. Looks like your routs came out perfectly. I've already purchased the 1.5" router bit and am in the process of laying out router table stops to hopefully get the perfect opposing positions on each panel. What was our process? Your table looks great!

 

[Rich Stidger]

How about cutting a round recess in the top of both leaves and also in the main table. Insert magnets into the recesses to hold the leaves flat to the table.
What holds the table in the vertical stowed position and keeps it from swinging about in a seaway?

 

[jviss]

...Insert magnets into the recesses...

1. Magnets that close to the steering compass?
2. Magnets are bad luck on a boat. (And bananas, too.)

 

[SoSound]

Thanks, @RobG, I'm sure your project will also look great! Especially if you figure out how to get the hinges inset properly. I wouldn't recommend my process to anyone else. The best thing I did was to practice several times on the original plywood prototype. I made several attempts at creating a guide for my router, but that work was awful. I ended up using a Dremel tool with a router bit, and did it freehand after masking and drawing the outline of the hinges. I used a fair amount of patience, and a LOT of luck in not ruining any of them.

If they are the same (or similar) hinges, you will need to route out a deeper inset at the edge of each board for the hinge pins.

 

[SoSound]

What holds the table in the vertical stowed position and keeps it from swinging about in a seaway?

Another bungee, around the base of the tube for the throttle control, that's why I'm not opposed to using them. I just need to figure out how to make it look like it isn't just temporary.

 

[Sailor Sue]

How about cutting a round recess in the top of both leaves and also in the main table. Insert magnets into the recesses to hold the leaves flat to the table.
What holds the table in the vertical stowed position and keeps it from swinging about in a seaway?

I also was going to suggest magnets. If you happen to have an inch forestner drill bit you can find 1 inch magnets that should work. I would try to mount the magnets as far away from the compass as possible.

 

[jviss]

I would try to mount the magnets as far away from the compass as possible.

That's impossible, since the table is mounted to the binnacle that houses the compass - so, you're stuck with the distance that provides. I wouldn't do it.

One of the rules of my boat: no magnets on board!

 

[jviss]

So far, this is about the most workable thing that I've found. I would attach one half to each of the foldouts and secure them to each other.

Hey Dave, can you please tell where you found this? I like it.

 

[jviss]

Driven, yet again, by compulsive DIY frugality (aka, too cheap to buy one),

I don't blame you. The "classic" Edson drop-leaf cockpit table has risen in price to over $1,600, in unfinished natural teak. Egad! My recollection is that ten years ago it was $800. I was lucky to get one with the boat I presently have. I also purchased a new hardware kit back when it was under $400 - now $563.

I must point out that I like Edson; their products are great and their customer service is superb. But the prices - yikes!

 

[SoSound]

Hey Dave, can you please tell where you found this? I like it.

Certainly! Amazon; Lock Clasp, there are at least several different brands and sellers with various finishes (not sure if any of the are real stainless).

@Sailor Sue, "as far away as possible" still isn't far enough... on our first boat, I found that just having a screwdriver with a magnetic socket for interchangeable bits in the cockpit would affect the compass. I could take the screwdriver and spin the compass in circles without being what I would think of as "close" to it.

 

[Sailor Sue]

Certainly! Amazon; Lock Clasp, there are at least several different brands and sellers with various finishes (not sure if any of the are real stainless).

@Sailor Sue, "as far away as possible" still isn't far enough... on our first boat, I found that just having a screwdriver with a magnetic socket for interchangeable bits in the cockpit would affect the compass. I could take the screwdriver and spin the compass in circles without being what I would think of as "close" to it.

It's good that you discovered that sooner, rather than later!

 

[jviss]

Certainly! Amazon; Lock Clasp, there are at least several different brands and sellers with various finishes (not sure if any of the are real stainless).

Thank you! Description says:

• 【Material】Made of good quality zinc alloy, and the surface is coated with antique bronze, corrosion-resistant and anti-rust.

 

[Davidasailor26]

That's impossible, since the table is mounted to the binnacle that houses the compass - so, you're stuck with the distance that provides. I wouldn't do it.

One of the rules of my boat: no magnets on board!

I agree with you that having magnets strong enough to hold the table that close to the binnacle probably wouldn’t work for the compass. But from an academic standpoint here’s a list of things you probably have onboard with some kind of permanent or electromagnet:

• Many chartplotters with magnetic latches on SD card doors
• Microphones
• Speakers
• Other compasses
• Alternators
• Electric motors

 

[RobG]

Thanks @SoSound for the reply. I'm using the Sucor flush table hinge so I won't need the extra route. I'm still experimenting with router table stops to make the routs accurate and repeatable before routing the finished wood product. I'll update the thread when I make some progress.