Remote oil filter for M25XP

[Hayden Watson]

I would like to install a remote oil filter on my M25XP so that I do not need to dump a cup of oil into the bilge every time I change the oil.

I did search the site for remote filter and found sever people who had not found a solution but no one who had a good solution. The oil filters flange on the M25XP is about 2.625" and the remote kits I have found have a 2.75"OD for the O-ring. That means that a bit of the O-ring is exposed outside of the flange.

I had one of these installed and one of the very few times I have ever gone at WOT, the O-ring blew out and drained the oil from the engine into the bilge. I loved the system right up to that moment. I would love to find an adapter that has a bit smaller O-ring groove.

 

[Steve_Catalina]

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/engines/230865-remote-oil-filter-kubota-diesel.html#post3224841

The above like may help. I got the info on the c34.org site. Paid membership required to access location. Well worth it! Good luck, hope it helpd

 

[jssailem]

@Hayden Watson , I wonder. If you abandoned the o-ring and instead used a gasket (self cut) to improve the seal so that adequate metal to metal is compressed against the gasket. Perhaps enhanced by use of permatex sealant.

Gasket Sealants Archives - Permatex

www.permatex.com

 

[Stu Jackson]

Hayden, I've had my M25 engine for 25+ years and have never had that problem. Put some rags down.

 

[Mark Maulden]

My filter is horizontal. Run the engine until “warm” and let it sit half hr. Wrap a plastic garbage bag around the filter and turn off into the bag. No spills

 

[Hayden Watson]

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/engines/230865-remote-oil-filter-kubota-diesel.html#post3224841

The above like may help. I got the info on the c34.org site. Paid membership required to access location. Well worth it! Good luck, hope it helpd

That was one of the articles that I found but the adapters that they mentioned, all have the 2¾" OD O-ring. I had one of those and it blew out the O-ring which dropped the oil into the bilge.

 

[Hayden Watson]

Hayden, I've had my M25 engine for 25+ years and have never had that problem. Put some rags down.

I am not sure if the access to the engine is better on the C34 than it is on the C30. I cannot reach any part of the oil pan so any oil that drips down the side must go to the bilge before it can be cleaned up. In addition to that, you cannot even reach under the pan so I always need to put a bunch of oil pads in the bilge to collect the oil as it works its way out.

 

[Hayden Watson]

My filter is horizontal. Run the engine until “warm” and let it sit half hr. Wrap a plastic garbage bag around the filter and turn off into the bag. No spills

That is the basic way that I do it but the access to the oil filter is limited so that it is difficult to turn the filter inside of the baggie and I usually get oil that runs down the side of the block and into the bilge.

 

[Hayden Watson]

@Hayden Watson , I wonder. If you abandoned the o-ring and instead used a gasket (self cut) to improve the seal so that adequate metal to metal is compressed against the gasket. Perhaps enhanced by use of permatex sealant.

Gasket Sealants Archives - Permatex

www.permatex.com

That might work. Another thought was to replace the O-ring with a square profile rubber gasket from an oil filter that has the same ID/OD as the adapter. That way it would fully fill the groove.

 

[FastOlson]

About 10 or 15 years ago a friend installed a remote oil filter on his M25 Universal. He said he used a remote filter kit he found easily. It might have been sold by Amzoil, but I am not sure now.
Perhaps some further research is needed. I have not done that mounting change, but have used the method of wrapping a "zip lock" baggy around our filters for several decades on two different Kubota-based engines (M25XP and nowadays a Betamarine).
I first use a strap wrench to initial loosen the filter, and as it starts to drip I put the baggy around it and quickly rotate it the rest of the way loose by hand. A little oil does escape down the side of the lower block but I first place some paper towels under that side of the engine. The filer is spun off and quickly rotated face-up, in the baggy. Works good. Perhaps the OP has challenges in accessing the front of his engine? Good luck!

 

[Hello Below]

did search the site for remote filter and found sever people who had not found a solution but no one who had a good solution. The oil filters flange on the M25XP is about 2.625" and the remote kits I have found have a 2.75"OD for the O-ring. That means that a bit of the O-ring is exposed outside of the flange.

Hayden, this is kind of like reverse engineering and maybe a bit convoluted but what the heck . . .
Finding a vehicle with the same or similar flange dimensions that you require may be solution. Using the link below search on the filter by size and dimension. Click on the M25XP oil filter thread stud size and a filter list comes up. Once you have found a filter number, find a suitable vehicle that uses it then find a oil relocation kit for that vehicle. Voila Clear as mud right???
This just happens to be the Wix catalogue but I am sure that other manufacturers have lookup tables also.

Wix - Oil Filter Lookup by Size

Edit: I was just thinking yikesmaybe the I.D. would be the critical dimension rather than the O.D.

 

[Stu Jackson]

I am not sure if the access to the engine is better on the C34 than it is on the C30. I cannot reach any part of the oil pan so any oil that drips down the side must go to the bilge before it can be cleaned up. In addition to that, you cannot even reach under the pan so I always need to put a bunch of oil pads in the bilge to collect the oil as it works its way out.

Hayden,
Here's a picture of the front of an M25, same as your XP. The oil pan is way below the bottom of this picture. Put the rag or paper towel under the oil filter.

 

[dlochner]

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/engines/230865-remote-oil-filter-kubota-diesel.html#post3224841

The above like may help. I got the info on the c34.org site. Paid membership required to access location. Well worth it! Good luck, hope it helpd

I just accessed it with a free membership.

 

[Hayden Watson]

Hayden,
Here's a picture of the front of an M25, same as your XP. The oil pan is way below the bottom of this picture. Put the rag or paper towel under the oil filter.
View attachment 222806

It would be fantastic

if I had that much access. I can barely get two fingers on the oil filter and need to spin it off while trying to hold the hot oil slick baggy tightly against the hot engine block with one hand. I will also be adding the J10 serpentine belt kit this spring which will make the belt obstruction much worse than shown in this photo.

 

[Hayden Watson]

Hayden, this is kind of like reverse engineering and maybe a bit convoluted but what the heck . . .
Finding a vehicle with the same or similar flange dimensions that you require may be solution. Using the link below search on the filter by size and dimension. Click on the M25XP oil filter thread stud size and a filter list comes up. Once you have found a filter number, find a suitable vehicle that uses it then find a oil relocation kit for that vehicle. Voila Clear as mud right???
This just happens to be the Wix catalogue but I am sure that other manufacturers have lookup tables also.

Wix - Oil Filter Lookup by Size

Edit: I was just thinking yikesmaybe the I.D. would be the critical dimension rather than the O.D.

Thanks for the lookup. From there I found this lookup that give all of the specs for the oil filter. The problem is that all of the adapters that I have found have an O-ring groove with a 2.5"ID and 2.75"OD.
The M25XP filter has a 2.475"OD and the flange on the block is only very little beyond that. The typical adapters that I have been able to find are too big and allow the O-ring to blow out.

 

[FastOlson]

The best answer might be to either do some carpentry on your model to enlarge engine access, or to get a different boat. As another poster said: Yikes.

 

[Hayden Watson]

The best answer might be to either do some carpentry on your model to enlarge engine access, or to get a different boat. As another poster said: Yikes.

Niether of those are likely to happen. I have been modifiing and upgrading Papillon to my likeing for 26-years and I am retiring this year. Now is the time to enjoy her to the most not sell her or cut her up and make her ugly.

 

[Hello Below]

Then let's give this a try. From my research on this forum, Fred Ficarra (R.I.P.) on Epitome was a longtime and prolific contributor to sailboatowners.com. Fred did a massive rebuild on his Hunter 34 including an oil filter relocation on his diesel. I believe, the filter gasket dimension for Fred's Yanmar 3GMF and your M25XP are identical. Here is the link to Eptiome's rebuild website. If you click on Thumbnail 44 there is a bit of narrative as to how he accomplished his relocation (remote) and the kit he used.
Good luck and have fun.

 

[Alan Gomes]

It would be fantasticView attachment 222825 if I had that much access. I can barely get two fingers on the oil filter and need to spin it off while trying to hold the hot oil slick baggy tightly against the hot engine block with one hand. I will also be adding the J10 serpentine belt kit this spring which will make the belt obstruction much worse than shown in this photo.

I had a Catalina 30 for about 10 years. It had an M25XP. I do not recall having any particular problem accessing the oil filter, though I sold the boat about 11 years ago and so my recollections of the oil change specifics may be fuzzy. The access to the top of the engine, not shown in your photo, is really good with the cover underneath the settee cushion removed. I'm pretty sure I accessed the filter from above. Can you provide a picture of the top view of the engine? Here's what mine looked like (when I first bought the boat). Worst case, it would seem that simply removing the (stock) alternator would give plenty of room, though I do not recall whether I had to do that.

 

[SoSound]

You might try checking with a performance or racing supply shop that specializes in small engine sports cars or something similar. I think a significant percentage of cars that race in SCCA classes which allow any modifications probably have remote oil filters and/or coolers. One place where I used to order a lot of parts was Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies (Take Off Plate, M20 x 1.5). Shops like that are also good at searching for parts based on specs, not just checking the fitment guide. I also came across a product from HEL Performance that seemed to fit smaller diameter filter dimensions. And, given the list of applications for your filter, you might have luck with a tuner shop who specializes in Kia (IF they have a real parts geek on staff) or a John Deere or Kubota dealer (with a really good parts department). Good luck!