Greetings, I have recently inherited an Oday 23 with a rotting compression post and port side bulkhead. There is no hole in the hull, so I think the water must be coming in from rain. Is there a typical place water gets in? Or will I need to go sit in the boat the next time clouds gather?
New to me boat with rotting bulkhead
- Thread starter G Newboat
- Start date
Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your nee sailboat!!
One method to find the leak(s) is to perform a leak test with someone inside, hatches and companionway closed and someone on the outside spraying water on the boat hatches, etc.
One method to find the leak(s) is to perform a leak test with someone inside, hatches and companionway closed and someone on the outside spraying water on the boat hatches, etc.
No hose at the slip. The boat is actually already in the water at the lake an hour away. On maybe the third cleaning trip down, I discovered the rotten compression post. Disappointed because I haven't been on this boat for 30 years. So far, I've given the sailing club and gas station a bunch of money, spent hours on driving and cleaning, and dammit I want to sail this thing at least once before the end of the year. So my plan is to loosen the stays and shrouds a bit, cut the post 1.5" from the floor, wedge a small piece of lumber under it, then tighten everything back down. That should last a couple of months, don't you think? Maybe a little wood glue to make sure it doesn't go anywhere?
O' Days are notorious for leaking around the chainplate penetrations, the mast step, and toe rails. Your fix will not be great. You need to swap the rot out, check the deck too as it is cored with balsa. Its probably going to be a lot of work, was on the 25 I used to own.
Replacing the bulkhead is a pretty straightforward repair but it is work nonetheless. I can send you some info and tips I wrote up for someone else if you'd like. While I haven't replaced my compression post it doesn't look to be too complicated. Remove original and a bit of fiberglass, install new post and glass it back in at the bottom. Hopefully your bulkhead and compression post are on the same side of the boat. The O'Day's can be a lot of work
I hope I am using the correct terminology here. The post that I am calling the compression post is a stained 2x4 running from under the mast to the fiberglass cabin floor. It is not fiberglassed in. The post is attached to the wall, which I am calling the port side bulkhead. There is another smaller bulkhead (?) on the starboard side.
The dried front hatch seal is all out of position and has to be leaking.
Is there some trick to spotting leaks? Comet around the windows, or something?
The dried front hatch seal is all out of position and has to be leaking.
Is there some trick to spotting leaks? Comet around the windows, or something?
The repair might not be great, but I think it would last for a couple of months as long as I cut it squarely at the right height. The damage doesn't look too complicated to correct.
Or do you think there might be too much flexing? I can see a little sliver of light between the bulkhead and side of the boat, so the tension of the stays and shrouds pulling the mast down is evidently crushing my boat a little.
Do I really need to just eat all this expense, take the boat back out of the water, and pay some more?
The compression post is fiberglassed into the bilge on my 25 so I assumed it was the same on the 23. It's hard to say what quick fixes will hold up and what wont. All we can say for certain is the way the boat was built from the factory has worked for 30+ years. It looks like you wont have to do much, if any, fiberglass repairs to replace the bulkhead and compression post
I don't think that sliver of light indicates an issue.
On the deck does the mast step show signs of settling, creating a small bird bath depression around it?
From your photos it doesn't look too bad to me. Yes, it is black and rotting but to the point it won't support the mast pressure? Can you poke a pointed screwdriver into it and the wood is soft? Then it's an immediate problem. If the mast is not sinking and the wood still has structural integrity, clean it up and enjoy sailing it.
I also noted the cabin sole under the compression post has no cracking or other indication that it is rotted and sinking.
As noted above, inspect the chain plates where they attach to the bulkheads. If the bulkheads are rotting around the chain plates that is a more critical issue. If they pull out the mast would come down.
And yes, you got the right terminology.
On the deck does the mast step show signs of settling, creating a small bird bath depression around it?
From your photos it doesn't look too bad to me. Yes, it is black and rotting but to the point it won't support the mast pressure? Can you poke a pointed screwdriver into it and the wood is soft? Then it's an immediate problem. If the mast is not sinking and the wood still has structural integrity, clean it up and enjoy sailing it.
I also noted the cabin sole under the compression post has no cracking or other indication that it is rotted and sinking.
As noted above, inspect the chain plates where they attach to the bulkheads. If the bulkheads are rotting around the chain plates that is a more critical issue. If they pull out the mast would come down.
And yes, you got the right terminology.
Finally a subject I know something about and can help . The bulkheads aren't that hard to replace. From my understanding there was a gap between the hull and the bulkhead intentionally . It left room for the hull to flex ,rather than crack . If it were I ,(and it has been me ) ,pull the boat and replace the bulkheads and compression post . Before you cut the compression post very carefully measure the length .
When I replaced the compression post ,it was because of water that sat in the bilge for years and had rotted the bottom . I very liberally soaked the replacement compression post in epoxy and wrapped in fiberglass .
If the bulkheads are "suspect" because of water intrusion , the chainplates that are attached to them ,THAT HOLD UP THE MAST could easily tear out and fall over.
When I replaced the compression post ,it was because of water that sat in the bilge for years and had rotted the bottom . I very liberally soaked the replacement compression post in epoxy and wrapped in fiberglass .
If the bulkheads are "suspect" because of water intrusion , the chainplates that are attached to them ,THAT HOLD UP THE MAST could easily tear out and fall over.
In addition to a mast falling you'll also have a hole in your deck and bulkhead if this isn't taken care of in a timely manner
The bottom of the port bulkhead is dark and starting to rot, but the compression post was the worst. The bottom 1/2 inch literally crumbled out when I poked it with my finger. I went down today to stuff a piece of lumber under it. I cut 1.5" from the floor, but the wood still crumbled away. Luckily, the piece of wood was about 3" long, so I just re-cut the post. A wood shim hammered in made it tight. The deck doesn't look sunken. I couldn't measure the post because it crumbled before I got the chance. I'll double check the port side to see if it will hold.
The compression post repair lasted for a couple seasons, which was nice. The boat is now back on the trailer, the mast is down (and off), and I just pulled out the rotting port side bulkhead. I have lots of grey, dusty mildew behind the sink that needs to be cleaned up. Again, this damp wood just crumbles at the bottom where i touch it. I have a plastic 2x4 cut and notched to function as a new compression post and I am trying to source a 1/2" sheet of HDPE to use for the bulkhead. Now my real concern is sealing the chainplate. Apparently, every time it rains, water is drawn down the plate, as evidenced by a stained trail on the bulkhead below the chainplate. Does that just get caulk up top, or do I need to remove the plate somehow? Thanks for all the advice, I really appreciate it.
Ritdog , the bulkheads were not tabbed to the hull from the factory . There are a lot of conflicting opinions about whether they should be or not.
Our bulkheads on our Oday 25 were not . There was also about a 1/2" gap between the bulkhead and the hull .There was almost no visible gap when I replaced the starboard side .
I personally would never use any type of starboard or plastic in a structural matter . For a compression post we used white oak liberally soaked in resin perhaps 4" inches up from the bottom . The leaking chainplate is easy to seal . MainSail is a vendor on this website . He has the preferred sealant for just such leaks
Our bulkheads on our Oday 25 were not . There was also about a 1/2" gap between the bulkhead and the hull .There was almost no visible gap when I replaced the starboard side .
I personally would never use any type of starboard or plastic in a structural matter . For a compression post we used white oak liberally soaked in resin perhaps 4" inches up from the bottom . The leaking chainplate is easy to seal . MainSail is a vendor on this website . He has the preferred sealant for just such leaks
The bulkheads on my '78 Oday 25 are tabbed to the hull. The tops and bottoms of the bulkhead are screwed to the fiberglass
The tops of both bulkheads were indeed screwed into a recess or groove . Seems like the Oday factory changed their construction mthods from 1978
to 1981 . Perhaps Rudy would know why . I was cautioned against glassing the replacement bulkhead to the hull . The "theory 'was do so would create a hard spot where the hull might start to crack . Not doing so would allow the hull to flex and not crack . Interesting is the fact the factory changed
to 1981 . Perhaps Rudy would know why . I was cautioned against glassing the replacement bulkhead to the hull . The "theory 'was do so would create a hard spot where the hull might start to crack . Not doing so would allow the hull to flex and not crack . Interesting is the fact the factory changed
It is interesting indeed. I was under the impression that tabbing it to the hull was ok so long as there was a gap between the bulkhead and hull. No issues after five or so years
@G Newboat - I'd suggest using some epoxy at the bottom of the new bulkhead to make it last longer. I'm sure most of us with porapotti style heads have overfilled the fresh water tank at some point
This old bulkhead had screws holding it in at the top and bottom. Why is HDPE a bad idea? It probably weighs maybe 30 pounds more, but it seems pretty strong at 1/2" thick.