I installed the Raymarine EV-100 Autopilot this year and I noticed lately when the unit is not on, when I am turning the wheel, it feels like I am fighting the wheel autopilot that is attached to the steering wheel. Is there any adjustment I can do to avoid this? Thanks in advance. Paul
Raymarine EV-100 Wheel Autopilot Catching
- Thread starter pvisich
- Start date
I have the same unit. When you disengage the unit, make sure the lever is all the way up. Sometimes when I flip the lever up it’s not up all the way and the unit is still partially engage.
Just like Art suggests, make sure the clutch lever is completely disengaged. If that fails there is a belt tension adjustment.
This "may" represent your EV-100 :
Last year I looked into replacing my ST-4000 with an EV-100 but once I saw what a dog's breakfast Raymarine's literature on the autopilot was, I quickly decided to overhaul the drive head of my ST-4000 and now have a perfect unit again.
The attached manual "may" be for an EV-100 but nowhere in it will you find a mention of EV-100. Hope this works for you.
Last year I looked into replacing my ST-4000 with an EV-100 but once I saw what a dog's breakfast Raymarine's literature on the autopilot was, I quickly decided to overhaul the drive head of my ST-4000 and now have a perfect unit again.
The attached manual "may" be for an EV-100 but nowhere in it will you find a mention of EV-100. Hope this works for you.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,536
Two possibilities.
- The clutch arm is still engaged,
- Or the clutch arm is released but the AP is not in standby mode. That means the AP continues trying to steer to the last heading you gave it.
Control must be in standby. Clutch tension adjustment is sensitive and critical. Mine started to drag when manual steering. It also tended to flip the clutch lever up when on autopilot steering. Manual said to flush wheel unit with a hose and fresh water after every use. Never going to happen! Clutch adjustment was already released to minimum tension. Tried flushing and problem remained. Removed unit and disassembled. Hand washed everything including the belt with fresh water. Reassembled and then it worked fine. Very sensitive system.
I’ve got the same issue after a year. There is an adjustment. Whatever you do don’t lubricate the internals. The manual says to give it a fresh water bath.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,536
Water is always a reasonable approach to take when dealing with an unknown issue.
The wheel portion of your AP can be removed and cleaned. It relays on a couple of plastic eccentric gears to tension and un-tension the belt. These two gears depend on the friction between the plastic and the inside of the belt to operate.
That is why the admonition “No Lubrication”.
But that is a catch all approach. In fact there are a number of surfaces that rub against each other. These can operate more smoothly if receiving a good cleaning to disperse the sand/grit/dust/goo that somehow finds it’s way into the interior of the wheel.
If you should take it apart and after cleaning wish to enhance the performance, use a dry lubricant. Only a touch to the gears “Plastic to Plastic”. Never on the belt.
Be sure to clean the ball bearings of the drive ring. Avoid leaving the drive ring moist. I have been told by a plastics engineer that the drive ring is of a plastic that over time degrades in water. You can find that the metal inserts will break the plastic over time. This will result in failure of the wheel.
Here is a drawing of the wheel unit and the info regarding lubrication should you open the unit and explore.
Wanted to thank everyone for their comments. I am pretty sure I am completely un-engaging the lever arm so I think the next thing I will try is to loosen the clutch a little to see if that prevents the AP from grabbing. If that doesn't work, then I will take apart and flush with water, but the unit is brand new, so have a hard time believing there is much dirt in there. Thanks again for everyone's comments. ~ Paul
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,536
Paul.
The clutch arm has a void on the side that you can’t see because it is against the grey AP plastic cover. On the cover are two plastic nubs. The nubs provide a friction hold for the clutch arm. Either engaged or not engaged.
If you grab the helm while the AP is engaged you can force the helm to function. This is a safety feature. The helm will be very stiff and if the AP is in auto mode the motor will try to steer the boat against your actions. Taking the helm and forcing the rudder to change usually pops the clutch arm off engaged but not fully released. The helm moves freely only when the clutch arm is fully released.
The movement of the clutch arm rotates the plastic eccentric gear inside the AP wheel. The eccentric is made of a stronger plastic than the clutch arm. The inside of the clutch arm fits over the “D” shaped post of the eccentric gear. It is held in place by the screw that runs through the clutch arm and into the eccentric gear.
The parts are mostly plastic so care is needed as you explore them.
If the unit is new you should seek warranty support for any repairs.
The clutch arm has a void on the side that you can’t see because it is against the grey AP plastic cover. On the cover are two plastic nubs. The nubs provide a friction hold for the clutch arm. Either engaged or not engaged.
If you grab the helm while the AP is engaged you can force the helm to function. This is a safety feature. The helm will be very stiff and if the AP is in auto mode the motor will try to steer the boat against your actions. Taking the helm and forcing the rudder to change usually pops the clutch arm off engaged but not fully released. The helm moves freely only when the clutch arm is fully released.
The movement of the clutch arm rotates the plastic eccentric gear inside the AP wheel. The eccentric is made of a stronger plastic than the clutch arm. The inside of the clutch arm fits over the “D” shaped post of the eccentric gear. It is held in place by the screw that runs through the clutch arm and into the eccentric gear.
The parts are mostly plastic so care is needed as you explore them.
If the unit is new you should seek warranty support for any repairs.
I am thinking about installing this on my boat but was wondering what average real world power consumption is. Often there is a difference between design and actual usage.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,536
Good question. I generally use the AP when I am using the engine. Power consumption is not a concern as I am making more than enough to replace that being used.
When sailing I usually am at the helm under crew control. I balance the sails and the boat sails s relatively straight line. To set sails or manage a specific period I’ll turn on the AP. The duration is short period so negligible power consumption.
If I would sail on a long passage in open water, then I would set up the windvane. A far better tool than the electrical AP.
The rating for the EV-100 7 amps in operation and 300mAmps in standby
When sailing I usually am at the helm under crew control. I balance the sails and the boat sails s relatively straight line. To set sails or manage a specific period I’ll turn on the AP. The duration is short period so negligible power consumption.
If I would sail on a long passage in open water, then I would set up the windvane. A far better tool than the electrical AP.
The rating for the EV-100 7 amps in operation and 300mAmps in standby
I've had 3 different, but similar, autopilots on 2 different boats. The power consumption seems to be on the light side, the fridge uses much more. Sea state, wind condition and sail balance will make a large difference. I do not make long passages though.