Packing Nut/Shaft Log Drip

duck21

.
Jul 17, 2020
171
Hunter 376 0 Washburn, WI on Lake Superior
Hi all,

It's been project week on the boat, and included on that list was tightening up the packing nut. It was staying dry at rest, but was a constant flow when the prop was turning. The nut came loose fairly easily, and I was able to adjust it down to ~1 drip a minute (when at relatively low RPM, tested while tied to the dock).

However, I forgot about Ahab's 3rd law...for every problem you fix on a boat you'll create another.

After getting the packing nut tightened down I went to dinner and came back and saw a some water in the prop bilge (my term). However, the drips weren't under the packing nut, they were on the other end, where the tube is connected to the log. When loosening the packing nut it did torque the tube a little. I held it with my hand, to offset the pressure (and used two packing nut tools to offset), but I'm guessing that little bit of torsion was enough to perhaps "un-seal" whatever crud is/was around the tube space. The tube appears to be relatively new and in decent condition, so I don't think that it's a tear/defect in the material.

I tightened down the hose clamps (they were already quite tight), but it has continued to drip. I should be clear...its more of a slow weep than a drip. I let it sit over night and had maybe 3oz of water in the prop bilge (a minimum enough that it was easily wiped up with a washcloth). I'm not worried about this sinking the boat or anything. However...this used to be dry, and I would prefer not to have any lake water entering the boat.

I've tried repositioning the hose clamps a little, but no avail. I'm starting to think that the hose clamps/tube are not the issue. I'm wondering if folks have addressed something similar. Where do I look next? Is the stern bearing/shaft log typically "sealed" when installed? Is there a chance that it needs to re-bedded? Did that bit of torsion on the tube somehow damage the shaft log/barb where its attached (is that possible)?

I've included a couple of pictures for reference.

Thanks!


Shaft Log.jpg



Shaft Log Mount.jpg
 

WayneH

.
Jan 22, 2008
1,079
Tartan 37 287 Pensacola, FL
OK, FWIW. I think the studs sticking out next to the hose goes to a bedded fitting in the stern tube. Maybe. It might need to be rebedded but that will be a haulout job. Maybe somebody who KNOWS about Hunters will chime in.

Why do you have a zinc attached to the shaft INSIDE the boat? Curious minds want to know.
 
  • Helpful
Likes: ggrizzard
Nov 22, 2011
1,227
Ericson 26-2 San Pedro, CA
I'm guessing you've already checked for this, but I'll go ahead and ask anyway, just in case: Have eliminated the possibility that the leak is originating farther up and gravity is pulling the water downhill to the point where it drips?
 
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Likes: ggrizzard

duck21

.
Jul 17, 2020
171
Hunter 376 0 Washburn, WI on Lake Superior
Hi Wayne,

Indeed, as I've stated at things for a while I do think that the shaft log has come unbedded. We're up North, so a haul out in the fall is inevitable... I may just need to watch it and decide if this is something that needs to be addressed sooner.

@Alan Gomes is correct, the zinc is just there in case the prop ever comes loose. I have a true sacrificial zinc on the shaft in the water as well, of course.

OK, FWIW. I think the studs sticking out next to the hose goes to a bedded fitting in the stern tube. Maybe. It might need to be rebedded but that will be a haulout job. Maybe somebody who KNOWS about Hunters will chime in.

Why do you have a zinc attached to the shaft INSIDE the boat? Curious minds want to know.
 

duck21

.
Jul 17, 2020
171
Hunter 376 0 Washburn, WI on Lake Superior
Indeed, I've been staring with a flashlight, it's definitely weeping in from just below the tube, not somewhere up shaft.

Doug

I'm guessing you've already checked for this, but I'll go ahead and ask anyway, just in case: Have eliminated the possibility that the leak is originating farther up and gravity is pulling the water downhill to the point where it drips?
 
  • Like
Likes: Alan Gomes

duck21

.
Jul 17, 2020
171
Hunter 376 0 Washburn, WI on Lake Superior
Thanks, Ralph. I strive to create unique problems in whatever project I undertake.

I had a feeling that the bonded surface is where the problem may lie (I did break out my 376 manual and saw the same drawing but, of course, there is no actual mention of sealant in the manual). I searched a lot of forums but haven't seen anyone mention this before, so this thread will need to be marked as the

It's a pretty slow leak, but it is definitely there. I was able to slow it even more by tightening down the two nuts holding the stern bearing in place. I'm thinking I might buy some flex-seal tape and try to patch it until I haul out in September, then do a whole prop-system refresh (new cutlass bearing, new stern bearing w/sealant, re-align the prop).

Given some of the crud that I see I'm almost wondering if the previous owner had this issue and put some form-a-gasket around the lip (which was then broken loose by my adjusting the packing nut). I didn't pry it THAT hard that I would think I would have de-bonded 5200 but and the bolts weren't that loose. On the other hand, it is a 28ish year old boat so I'm sure everything has worn to some degree.



View attachment 217950

If it's any consolation, you may be the only owner to ever experience this problem. Bragging rights maybe ?
 
Jan 4, 2006
6,989
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
I strive to create unique problems in whatever project I undertake.
Excellent attitude. A man's reach should always exceed his grasp :facepalm: .

until I haul out in September, then do a whole prop-system refresh (new cutlass bearing, new stern bearing w/sealant, re-align the prop).
Maybe not attack the cutlass bearing until you've had a chance to test it by heaving on it, searching it for radial play. My boat is a 1999 delivered new to me in 1998. There is still 0.000" play in the cutlass bearing (2400 running hours) which I feel is due to the fact that I have:

- maintained the prop shaft alignment over the years (was originally 0.010" angular error from the factory).
- haven't hit anything with the prop.
- have always marked the sling points with masking tape before lifting to avoid having the yard place the sling under the prop shaft.

1689796638163.png


- attended church regularly.
- and dropped a few pennies in the poor box on my way out.
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,546
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
I'm thinking I might buy some flex-seal tape and try to patch it
Legit idea but I'm thinking there are more durable products than flex-seal. A very similar product is goop. It is thicker and hardens to a very tough rubber. I have used it to make gaskets on several occasions .. You can usually find it at any big-box store

1689801955844.png


Build a damn around the area with masking tape... then fill in the "reservoir" and let it set up for 48+ hours. It hardens to tack in about a day but after a few days will turn into a very hard rubber compound.
 

duck21

.
Jul 17, 2020
171
Hunter 376 0 Washburn, WI on Lake Superior
I do think this would work better than tape. Will Goop set up while wet? I was trying to think of "goo" I could use, but I was only coming up with things that would need to be dry while they set.

Doug



Legit idea but I'm thinking there are more durable products than flex-seal. A very similar product is goop. It is thicker and hardens to a very tough rubber. I have used it to make gaskets on several occasions .. You can usually find it at any big-box store

View attachment 217952

Build a damn around the area with masking tape... then fill in the "reservoir" and let it set up for 48+ hours. It hardens to tack in about a day but after a few days will turn into a very hard rubber compound.
 

duck21

.
Jul 17, 2020
171
Hunter 376 0 Washburn, WI on Lake Superior
I did check at the beginning of the season, the bearing does feel solid. That said, I do think I have some minor alignment issues. I get a regular clunk when I get up around 3000 RPM and softer (but still present) thumping when down around 2500 RPM. Re-aligning things has been on my list, I sort of assumed that would be the time to consider the bearing as well. But maybe not.

I've had the boat for 3 seasons now. Unfortunately, I inherited a pretty good project list from the previous owner (not that any of this was a surprise).

Doug



Excellent attitude. A man's reach should always exceed his grasp :facepalm: .



Maybe not attack the cutlass bearing until you've had a chance to test it by heaving on it, searching it for radial play. My boat is a 1999 delivered new to me in 1998. There is still 0.000" play in the cutlass bearing (2400 running hours) which I feel is due to the fact that I have:

- maintained the prop shaft alignment over the years (was originally 0.010" angular error from the factory).
- haven't hit anything with the prop.
- have always marked the sling points with masking tape before lifting to avoid having the yard place the sling under the prop shaft.

View attachment 217951

- attended church regularly.
- and dropped a few pennies in the poor box on my way out.
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,546
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
I do think this would work better than tape. Will Goop set up while wet? I was trying to think of "goo" I could use, but I was only coming up with things that would need to be dry while they set.

Doug
I don't know if it will set wet... you could squeeze a little out onto a wet napkin and put it all in a zip lock and wait...

Alternatively, you might get some quick dry super glue and jam it into the crack to get the weeping to stop long enough to goop it.

1689803421091.png


Ever since that one time I glued my hand to the shower stall wall...:eek:I hate working with superglue.. but it does have its uses.