Beneteau 35s5 Rudder Bearing
- Thread starter thetone
- Start date
-
- Tags
- rudder bearing
I would leave the collar bolts tight ( to try and keep weight off the pin)…
Then I would douse it in some penetrating oil and let it sit for a while (days).
I suspect, but down own a Hunter so not sure, that you are dealing with some dissimilar metals (assume pin is SS and the collar ia something else, like cast aluminum). This could result in the pin being “welded” in place. Very difficult to remove. You certainly have to be careful not to flare the end of the pin, or it will never go through the hole.
Is the pin just a straight pin?
hopefully others can share some other thoughts (heat, etc).
Grego
Then I would douse it in some penetrating oil and let it sit for a while (days).
I suspect, but down own a Hunter so not sure, that you are dealing with some dissimilar metals (assume pin is SS and the collar ia something else, like cast aluminum). This could result in the pin being “welded” in place. Very difficult to remove. You certainly have to be careful not to flare the end of the pin, or it will never go through the hole.
Is the pin just a straight pin?
hopefully others can share some other thoughts (heat, etc).
Grego
You'll have to be careful with heat... it's a fiberglass rudder stock.
The pin looks peened over, esp at the end opposite the connecting link arm. The penetrating oil soak suggestions is a good one, but at this point I would cut the peened end off and grind it clean to the 'quadrant' and use a pin pumch and a good heavy hammer to try to drive it out towards the link arm end. Worst case you may have to drill it out.
The link arm bolt is probably the same scenario... but a puller might help you there if you can't unthread the bolt.
The pin looks peened over, esp at the end opposite the connecting link arm. The penetrating oil soak suggestions is a good one, but at this point I would cut the peened end off and grind it clean to the 'quadrant' and use a pin pumch and a good heavy hammer to try to drive it out towards the link arm end. Worst case you may have to drill it out.
The link arm bolt is probably the same scenario... but a puller might help you there if you can't unthread the bolt.
Time for a good set of drill bits, and some time and patience, but I'd try grinding the pin flush at the worst end and give it another go to drive it out from there.
I don't know your specific case, but I've been confronted with tapered pins and holes. So just make sure you don't have that issue. If you do, make sure you drive from the correct side.
dj
I had a similar problem, S.S. pin in aluminum quadrant - really stuck. I made a press out of 1/4" bar steel and 3/4" threaded rod and was able to press it out. Took a LOT of pressure and made loud noises every time the pin moved but I got it out. Try to heat it up as much as possible but as has been said, be careful of the fiberglass rudder stock (use an infrared thermometer to monitor). Penetrating oils don't penetrate SS/aluminum corrosion in my experience. I replaced the pin with a bolt, slathered in Tef-Gel with an extra nut just below the head so it can be used to back the bolt out in the future. Here's a picture of the press:
Hi Thetone,
I used 2" x 1/4" steel bar stock and 3/4" threaded rod, large washers and bolts (Home Depot). The bars are 11" long, the holes are 7 1/2" apart on center. The thread rods are 12" long. I size this based on my quadrant so you may want to adjust as appropriate - basically, I wanted the threaded rods to be just a bit wider than the quadrant.
I used 2" x 1/4" steel bar stock and 3/4" threaded rod, large washers and bolts (Home Depot). The bars are 11" long, the holes are 7 1/2" apart on center. The thread rods are 12" long. I size this based on my quadrant so you may want to adjust as appropriate - basically, I wanted the threaded rods to be just a bit wider than the quadrant.
@thetone dimensions of the other press is not important. You are on spot with needing a clearance hole in one plate to allow the pin. Thread the other plate on center with a bolt size smaller than the pin, I suspect you will need to continue to press even after the pin is flush. Make the bars as stout as possible, the all-thread should be as close as possible too (to improve rigidity). Others advice for grinding the peening away are also spot on.
IN MY INSTANCE (C&C30mk2) - I had a stuck bolt in a quadrant. Once I got the quadrant apart by cutting the head off the stuck bolt, even though the bolt was STILL stuck, I could take that home for some proper hammering.
...sovYou MAY be able to separate the two tiller arm pieces, at which time the stuck pin will be left in one half. The pin is likely NOT stuck in the rudder stock. Take that home or to a shop to drill out and replace.
IN MY INSTANCE (C&C30mk2) - I had a stuck bolt in a quadrant. Once I got the quadrant apart by cutting the head off the stuck bolt, even though the bolt was STILL stuck, I could take that home for some proper hammering.
...sovYou MAY be able to separate the two tiller arm pieces, at which time the stuck pin will be left in one half. The pin is likely NOT stuck in the rudder stock. Take that home or to a shop to drill out and replace.