DIY of standing rigging with compression fittings

[jviss]

What are the risks of replacing all standing riggings to a compression fittings or swageless , with sta lok or norseman by myself? I watch many people doing it on YouTube with no special difficulties.
I am thinking of doing it myself is there anything in particular I need to pay attention? The money saving is what I need because I am doing a major refit on my S2 9.2C and the expenses are overwhelming. Is Norseman better then Sta lok?
Any advice will be appropriated

To answer the original question, from my perspective:

1. No significant risk, assuming you are reasonably skilled mechanically, and are willing to consume a wedge or two practicing on some scrap wire;
2. you won't save any money, in my estimation, as mechanical fittings have gone up a lot in price, at a rate faster than swaged. For my boat, a 38' sloop with 3 shrouds each port and starboard, forestay, split backstay, and baby stay, the parts, materials, and labor for swaging for new standing rigging come to this:
   1. Hi-Mod: $2,978.94
   2. Sta-Lok: $2,450.86
   3. Swaged: $1,101.34 error, this is $2,189.64. Sorry!

These prices updated today, May 3, 2023, from Rigging Only, 50 Fort Street, Fairhaven, MA 02719
riggingandhardware.com

As you can see, the swaged option is much more economical.

This, of course, assumes you measure your existing rigging, figure out what parts you need, and order it - and you take the risk that it is correct.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

That's a very dramatic price differential. 2 years ago, I replaced all my swaged rigging and I paid substantially more than the $1,100 quoted above (possibly triple that price) .... but I paid for the rigger to come and get the rigging when the mast was down. He did all the measuring and installed the rigging and tuned it. The key to keeping it economical is to do all that work yourself, obviously. Essentially, I paid for a middle-man in this process. You can avoid the middle-man with your own effort, for sure.

 

[jviss]

That's a very dramatic price differential. 2 years ago, I replaced all my swaged rigging and I paid substantially more than the $1,100 quoted above (possibly triple that price) .... but I paid for the rigger to come and get the rigging when the mast was down. He did all the measuring and installed the rigging and tuned it. The key to keeping it economical is to do all that work yourself, obviously. Essentially, I paid for a middle-man in this process. You can avoid the middle-man with your own effort, for sure.

Yes. I don't discount the value of rigger that you contracted, though, as he's assuming the risk of wasted time and materials if all doesn't go well. The price I came up with, as you know, is measuring yourself. I wonder what Rigging Only would charge if I just dropped off my old rigging? I don't imagine it would be much more than what I cam up with.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Yes. I don't discount the value of rigger that you contracted, though, as he's assuming the risk of wasted time and materials if all doesn't go well. The price I came up with, as you know, is measuring yourself.

Yes, I trust and value the rigger's service for sure. I was commenting on the price differential you show between mechanical and swaged fittings. I think that with the differential you show, I could never justify selecting mechanical fittings based on my current situation. I'm sure there are valid reasons to choose mechanical at higher pricing, but the point is, they may not be for every sailor ... especially a sailor on a budget!

 

[jviss]

Yes, I trust and value the rigger's service for sure. I was commenting on the price differential you show between mechanical and swaged fittings. I think that with the differential you show, I could never justify selecting mechanical fittings based on my current situation. I'm sure there are valid reasons to choose mechanical at higher pricing, but the point is, they may not be for every sailor ... especially a sailor on a budget!

Yes, gotcha now! Me, too!

 

[jviss]

By the way, the costs I show are for mechanical terminals at the bottom only, as my rig uses T-type top fittings, and those aren't available in mechanical, only swaged.

 

[dmax]

To answer the original question, from my perspective:

1. No significant risk, assuming you are reasonably skilled mechanically, and are willing to consume a wedge or two practicing on some scrap wire;
2. you won't save any money, in my estimation, as mechanical fittings have gone up a lot in price, at a rate faster than swaged. For my boat, a 38' sloop with 3 shrouds each port and starboard, forestay, split backstay, and baby stay, the parts, materials, and labor for swaging for new standing rigging come to this:
   1. Hi-Mod: $2978.94
   2. Sta-Lok: $2450.86
   3. Swaged: $1,101.34

These prices updated today, May 3, 2023, from Rigging Only, 50 Fort Street, Fairhaven, MA 02719
riggingandhardware.com

As you can see, the swaged option is much more economical.

This, of course, assumes you measure your existing rigging, figure out what parts you need, and order it - and you take the risk that it is correct.

I'm wondering if the price for swaged is $2,101.34 which is about what I paid for new rigging from Rigging Only a year-and-half ago. That's too much of a price difference. I brought him my old rigging so he could duplicate it.

 

[jviss]

I'm wondering if the price for swaged is $2,101.34 which is about what I paid for new rigging from Rigging Only a year-and-half ago.

Whoops, I may have made an error - checking the spreadsheet now....

 

[jviss]

I'm wondering if the price for swaged is $2,101.34 which is about what I paid for new rigging from Rigging Only a year-and-half ago. That's too much of a price difference. I brought him my old rigging so he could duplicate it.

Ah! You're right! Thank you. I had a spreadsheet error. It's $2,189.64 for the swaged option.