Is the boat sitting low in the water??
- Thread starter Jamesiv1
- Start date
All hoses below the waterline should have two marine hose clamps. If the previous owner used home depot vinyl hose with one home depot clamp, I'd bet there's more of that on the boat.
You will find that many hoses need that, depending in type. I have a heat gun for heat shrink tubing and installing hoses.
The silicone hoses use for heads/toilets are especially fun. In some cases hose material doesn't want to stretch over the barbs, in some cases it is too "sticky/grippy"
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Just had a closer read of that article. It makes a really good case for using high quality, marine grade clamps - especially below the water line. Thanks for that. Looks like a good website to keep handy.
Proper Installation Of Double Hose Clamps - Marine How To
Male Adapter Too Short Quite often when working on boats I notice or see odd fitting hoses. It doesn't take much to figure out why once you start paying attention. Many, if not most generic non-marine male hose adapters are notmarinehowto.com
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The owner of that site is one of the big contributors here.
Musings With Maine Sail
How-to's, photos, and general wisdom from our own Maine Sail, founder of MarineHowTo.com.
forums.sailboatowners.com
I am blown away by the breadth and depth of knowledge available on C22's....
And the helpfulness of the C22 community.
Boat plugs ordered.R and R Custom Woods Sugar Pine Boat Plugs
R and R Custom Woods Sugar Pine Boat Plugsshop.sailboatowners.com
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That is one the great reasons to own one. 10,000 boat made.
Unfortunately we never got to take part in one of the Catalina 22 National Sailing Association cruise gatherings. They run a gulfcoast cruise in early spring and a great lakes cruise in summer.
The other through hull that is below the waterline is the large rubber hose clamped to the "volcano" where the keel cable exits the hull. The rubber should be in good shape and double clamped. If the hose cracks or the connection fails the boat will fill with water and sink.
Next time I haul out, I think I'll get one of these:
Scupper T-Kit
Catalina Direct, publishers of the Catalina 22 and Catalina 25 Owner's Handbooks and the largest supplier of parts and Lewmar winches for Catalina Yachts in the country
www.catalinadirect.com
And one of these:
3/4" Ball Valve
Catalina Direct, publishers of the Catalina 22 and Catalina 25 Owner's Handbooks and the largest supplier of parts and Lewmar winches for Catalina Yachts in the country
www.catalinadirect.com
Practical Boat did a review in 2000 that stated the 10k+ plus figure. Recent stated figure is 15000 as of 2009. I wonder what the current figure is.More like 15,000 but who's counting.
Of course that assumes you consider the sport and even the mark2 as "real" Catalina 22s. I definitely don't think the sport is. Yeah the hull may be the same but it lacks the mini cruiser interior
The Mark 2 Hull is wider and doesn't comply with class regulations
I firmly believe the 80s and early 90s "new design" is peak C22.
Calling the sport a real C22 is like calling the Ford Mach-E a Mustang.
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Anchor locker, dedicated fuel locker, aft cockpit drains, better interior, nicer forward bomar hatch, revised cabin top for more room...
The drawback is.. while the "New Design“ complies with C22 Class regulations and CAN be raced in the class (a Mark2 can't)..
The "New Design“ is heavier and therefore not really competitive.
Serious racers actually want the first few hulls of the original design because they were the lightest.
There are actually 2 different new designs...
The difference being the forward hatch....
I believe @Gene Neill has a new design with the fancy hatch. Our 1987 model had the fiberglass forward hatch.
Full details here:
https://www.catalina22.org/index.php/component/rsfiles/download-file/files?path=C22_Buyers_Guide/New+Design+Review.pdf&Itemid=101
Prepare to be sorry you asked!
The following is attributed to @watercolors II, although I added a couple minor little things.The "New Design" (1986-1995) may be ideal for you if your primary goal is cruising rather than racing, especially if you plan to spend multiple days and nights aboard.
Starting from bow to stern, the new design has an anchor locker built into the bow, plenty of room for two anchors, chain and over 200 feet of rode with a drain out the bow for wet gear.
The stem fitting now features a tang, which extends down through the deck and is through-bolted to the prow. This eliminates a weakness in the original design which could lead to the stem fitting pulling loose from the deck.
The forward end of the cabin has been extended and given more slope, creating more space in the V berth/porta potty area. The forward hatch is now located on this slope, where it gives better ventilation than the old placement on the foredeck. On post-1987 models, the forward hatch is made of smoked Lexan, providing more light inside, as well a more sleek, modern look.
The cabin windows are now frameless and made of smoked Plexiglas, which adds to the modernized look, while eliminating the common leakage problem of the old style aluminum-framed glass windows.
The lifeline stanchions are now mounted further outboard, in cut-outs along the toe rail. This provides more room along each side of the boat to walk fore and aft, with less chance of tripping or stubbing a toe on the stanchion post.
The sliding galley of the old style has changed to a permanent setup just aft of the v-berth in which there is a permanent sink on the port side with a counter top area and a built in garbage can under the counter. A five gallon water container sits in a special cut out under the v-berth with a hand pump at the sink. On the starboard side is a place for a two burner stove and a very deep drawer under this stove.
The table settee is on the portside and looks shorter than the old style but, the back cushion for the back bench seat has a strong wooden backing and a special support and slot to slide this back cushion under the port side cockpit bench to give you over 6 feet of sleeping accommodations. The floor under the table is level on the new style where the old had a step-over keel trunk you have to deal with. The starboard quarter berth now has a lift lid under the cushion with a large storage area underneath.
The two small shelves on each side of the cabin are now gone in the new styling.
The main step down into the cabin from the cockpit is now a built-in 48 quart cooler, possibly the biggest improvement in livability.
The starboard area has a cushion that extends 75 percent of the way back to the stern for sleeping children (or very tall adults) with storage underneath this cushion, and the port lazarette opens inside the cabin, with a divider back 24 inches from the cabin settee seat to keep small storage stuff more organized.
At the stern, the new style has a fuel tank storage area on the port side, which is now sealed from the inside of the cabin, and will accommodate up to a six gallon fuel tank. On the starboard side at the stern is a deep storage area under the bench seat where one group 24 battery is located, with room for mooring lines, fenders, cleaning equipment, etc. This compartment is larger than it appears, since it extends well underneath the cockpit floor.
The new style mast features internal halyards, typically leading back to the cockpit.
Inside the cabin, there is now access to the bilge under two decorative covers. There is room for a slender bilge pump if one is desired.
The new design's cockpit floor now slopes toward the stern, rather than foreward, and the drains are now much larger and exit through the transom above the waterline with no grates to become plugged, thereby filling the cockpit with water.
DISADVANTAGES:
As mentioned above, the long narrow shelves down each side of the cabin are gone. Shelf space becomes precious, and New Design owners must typically find ways to add some.
Narrower cockpit coamings result in jib sheets needing to be pulled aftward, rather than inboard, which is awkward and difficult. Self tailing winches become a wonderful (if expensive!) addition.
In some of the earlier new design boats, the anchor locker has a drain which exits through a small hole in the leading edge of the bow. This drain is prone to leaking into the cabin. Later models have a through-hull drain on one side of the boat, which eliminates the issue. This can be retrofitted with relative ease.
The wooden reinforcement block behind the bow eye is completely inacessible. Should it ever need replacement, the anchor locker will have to be cut wide open. Similarly, in order to re-bed the bow pulpit and/or bow cleats, inspection ports must be installed in each side of the anchor locker. If the anchor locker does not have three access ports, your cleats have never been re-bedded.
Most of the cabin lockers have no way for water to drain out of them. Drilling a small hole in the lowest corner of each locker allows any water to drain to the bilge rather than remain trapped. This is particularly important in the large locker under the port settee, where any trapped water will quickly rot the lower edge of the long teak panel.
I agree 100%.
When Catalina Yachts introduced the "new design", they gave it no designator like "MkII", they simply called it "the new Catalina 22". This was idiotic on multiple levels, and will continue to create confusion until the last C22 on planet Earth rests in pieces in a landfill. The unofficial name "new design", assigned after the fact, is simply a clumsy attempt to correct the mistake. (I know you already know this, I say it mainly for James' benefit.)
In my humble opinion, the new design should have been called the MkII, and the MkII should have been called the MkIII. Or some such thing.