Bilge Pump wiring issue

Sep 23, 2019
1
HUNTER 356 WINTHROP HARBOR SLIP
I am in the process of replacing my Rule Automatic pump model ( 27SA) . It has three wires... a Black ground wire......a Brown automatic wire.( which is always live with 12 volts) and a Brown and White manual wire which only has voltage when the manual test switch is thrown. . The Brown automatic wire sends a short pulse every 2.5 min down to the pump to sense for water. If water is detected it stays on until the water level is reduced...... So before installing it I used a multi meter to test that I have voltage at the brown wire

.For some reason the automatic function does not work even though I have voltage.... I tested the pump on a 12 volt car battery charger and it works fine... so the pump is ok. So im wondering what is stopping the auto function from working..... my only guess so far is maybe the wire is not providing enough amperage due to corrosion.... Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
May 27, 2004
2,057
Hunter 30_74-83 Ponce Inlet FL
Is your "automatic wire" integral to the pump, i.e., or is there a separate float switch?
 
Jun 1, 2009
1,845
Hunter 49 toronto
Is your "automatic wire" integral to the pump, i.e., or is there a separate float switch?
Ok, I’ll demystify this..
Just wire the pump as per the instructions. It will work.
The way that the automatic water sensing feature works is clever. Every few minutes, the pump powers up, and spins the impeller.
If there is water at the base of the pump, then the pump will naturally run it out the discharge.
When the pump is “working” in this manner, it requires more current than if the pump was just spinning in air.
Think of this test.
In your cockpit you have a manual bilge pump. How do you know that there’s no more water in your bilge??? The handle is much easier to lever up and down.
In the same fashion, the pump senses running current, and when it’s very low, it means no water.
Getting back to your install…
Just hook it up as specified, and use the switch as manual overide.