Replacing engine instrument panel

[Scott T-Bird]

@Calif. Ted , I think I'm going to try to remove the face of the pod and fabricate something with a thinner profile. It's that lip around the perimeter that is causing most of the problems. It's at least 1" deep. If I can make space for the WP lever, recess the panel slightly and make a new flush face, I should have a much better fit.

My other thought was to eliminate the wheel pilot and get a below-deck autohelm, but I understand that is a complicated project on a 320 as well.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Hey Scott, Maybe time for a home built solution?
I'm thinking something that puts the gauges on both sides of the pedestal and goes deeper behind the pedestal. The front face plate can still be the full width side to side to join to the two sides.
Might be able to find two rectangular nav pods and mount them vertical on each side of the pedestal or vertically on the pedestal guard.

I could think about one of the uncut NavPod models. The problem is that all of them are mounted to the guards, which I won't be able to do. Perhaps I could figure out a way to attach one to the guards with some kind of extension device. The problem is that they all appear to be about 5.5" deep and I think that is too deep and won't fit between the wheel and the pedestal. I'll have to do some measuring.

 

[Hollyberry]

I imagine the washers/spacers were there to allow the wheel pilot drive ring to clear the panel.. no wonder you have no threads engaged on the wheel nut!!
I never 'got' that placement by Catalina... I think pretty well all the Mark II models and the 'zero' models featured this.
Good luck finding a workable solution. Relocating to a cockpit sidewall would be a big job!!

 

[markwbird]

Well, yes, I am planning to do that. It still leaves me with what to with all the stuff in that box that would still be in the way unless I can remove it and leave a clean pedestal.

Remove all of the electronics and convert it into a mini bar.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Remove all of the electronics and convert it into a mini bar.

A good thought. I still need to provide the key switch, blower switch, warning lights, shut-down handle, etc.

 

[Ward H]

The problem is that they all appear to be about 5.5" deep and I think that is too deep and won't fit between the wheel and the pedestal. I'll have to do some measuring.

I'm thinking you put it alongside of the pedestal, mounted vertical against the pedestal guard.

 

[capta]

I'm thinking you put it alongside of the pedestal, mounted vertical against the pedestal guard.

If you can't find another you like, it isn't a difficult job to repair the damage with fiberglass and gel coat.

 

[jssailem]

need to provide the key switch, blower switch, warning lights

Many ways are possible to provide these services. They can but do not need to be on the pedestal.

• Do you need a "Key" or could a push button be used to start your engine? Locating an on/off power switch that energizes the push button where you want to be starting your engine opens up possibilities not originally envisioned by Catalina.
• The blower switch? Do you have gas engine or diesel? This could be anywhere. Diesel does not need a blower prior to start.
• Glow plugs, There are server options for a timed autostart procedure that does not involve a spring loaded key.
• LED warning lights could be installed where ever they are best seen for the tasks involved. I installed gauges that incorporate the warning light in the gauge. For the visually impaired there is always the option of a horn or buzzer to get your attention.

If you're making changes outside the box thinking may let you streamline the structure of your pedestal in a way that is more appealing.